Rear wheels lock up when i make sharp turns in H4

Never mind my last question. I basically answered it myself inside the question.

 

I would just flat out say that if your tires are gripping don't be in 4Hi or be going less than 5mph at least.

As long as your tires can safely slip (like in gravel for example) you are probably good up to like 75% of full lock. Basically just don't go to full lock in 4wd. If you start binding before full lock then I would try to avoid steering that far next time. I don't have any specific numbers, especially since it probably varies every time anyway, sometimes your tires grip the snow, sometimes they don't.

 

Best thing you can do is go out by yourself and test the limitations of what it will do. Go to a prking lot full of snow, find some hills, etc. Drive like an idiot (with no one around of course). Once you know exactly how your truck is gonna act youll be 100% more confident. Not knowing how it will act scares the SHt out of me, but once you figure it out and get used to it you'll have fun!

 

Basically, if I don't feel the wheels locking (that dragging, vibrating, locking feel) then I am still OK right?

 

replace rear differential fluid. make sure to add friction additive.

 

The links below might help explain things...

 

oh, boy...the 4x4abc links makes me never want to use 4x4 ever again and turned my stomach reflecting back on the the drive home i had this evening in H4. It even made me wonder if it could mess up the system so easily, why would anyone want to use 4x4? When I am driving in the winter when I won't see black ice until i hit it, it is already too late to switch to 4x4. So it seems almost useless.
But clicking thru links on howstuffworks somehow ended me up on sites with celeb boobs so I feel better now. thanks!

 

steep Gravel roads, mud, deep snow, Moab, etc.

 

well....yes of course. I knew i left myself wide open for that one as i clicked on submit...
I meant from daily practicality perspective.

 

Daily is unlikely. Maybe if you lived near the mountains on a poorly maintained road that got lots of snow every few days.

 

You must be thinking of all wheel drive.

 

I don't understand how all wheel drive or full time 4wd help at all. If you are on a slick surface you are just going to 1 tire fire anyway aren't you (minus any diff locks of course). I mean they say under ideal traction, the power is 25% to each tire, but in reality isn't the power like just going to the tallest tire still, since all 4 tires are not going to be exactly the same size?

If it truly is 25% to each tire under ideal traction then I could see if you were on the verge of loosing traction that could keep one tire from just spinning, but I think there is still a slim chance of hitting that ideal condition very often.

 

Yeah, until now my dumb ass thought that H4 is basically an "all-wheel drive
mode".

 

AWD doesn't mean it is one big open diff. Many systems have limited slip differentials to allow for the slippage needed for turning but lock up the diffs when the torque imbalance gets too high.

Another method is to make everything an open diff but then apply the brakes on the wheel that starts spinning too fast. This will cause some torque to applied to the opposite wheel which hopefully has traction.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-wheel_drive

 

Don't worry too much about. Nobody seems to know much. You just put in and turn the key, put it in gear, push the gas, magic happens, and you move...

I didn't know too much about a lot of it either though until my rear diff blew up on me about a year ago.

 

Bahaha!! I am tired... I completely spaced that you could just though some LSD's in there and solve all those problems. I'm use to my Taco, open/open unless I hit the lockers.

 

I think you might be feeling the TRAC working the brakes. Read this thread, it will confuse you even more , but if you can wrap your head around it, might just be that what you are feeling is normal traction control, etc.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...uto-lsd-explained-easy-understand-i-hope.html

 

You all have mighty low confidence in Toyota if you think driving in bad weather in 4WD is going to trash your drive line. If I even think there might be black ice it's in 4WD my 97 only lasted 285K miles before I sold it. But I did have to replace the rear ujoint at 206K. Climbing over uneven rocks losing and gaining traction is far harder on the drive line then driving in 4WD on the pavement. If you don't use it, it won't work when you need it why do you think Toyota says to drive it in 4WD at least 10 miles a month and before you jump on that there is nothing any where in the manual that says not on dry pavement it just says 10 miles or more a month. Yes it will bind on a tight turn but what you feel are the tires slipping take it out of 4WD and park it.

 

I've attempted this thread a few times before and the manual as well. Honestly, if i can understand all of this well, I think I deserve a PhD. But i'll keep trying.

 

Could be trac... but i think that happens more from loss of traction. The op mentioned it's happening in tight turns in 4WD on non-slip surfaces... sounds more like a binding issue.
OP... I've even experienced binding on dry snow while attempting to park in tight spots. Sometimes it's best to just get back in 2WD if tight turns are required. Even while offroading on loose dirt/gravel i never make real tight turns with 4WD engaged.