Oil Catch Can Install Guide

The question asked to me was did I notice an improvement in performance. The answer is no. However if you search here in the performance section, there are pictures of catch cans working. The stuff in those cans is insanely nasty. They do infact work. Since I plan on owning my truck for a long time it made sense to me to do this mod as it may extend the engine lifespan.

 

yeah, it's just a knurled thumb screw with an o-ring. i'm sure you could swap out for a valved drain plug for it. you may haveto tap differnt threads though depending on options.

I presurized the can before i installed it and the only leak i found wasat the top, where the entire top bilts down. some rtv would probably work. i had an extra gasket sitting around that was the right size, so i just used that.

I'll probably just frain it in place with the drain screw. if i need to take it off, it's only two phillips head screws.

 

I look at it like cheap insurance. 20-100 bucks one time deal keeps all the crap out of the engine.

Let me know how that goes. I want to run something like that too

 

I was thinking about taking a 1/4" piece of copper and flare one end (that will keep it from falling into canister). Then put it into the intake side (3/8") of the canister to have the oil/vapor mixture enter the canister lower than the exhaust fitting on the canister. The tube will be approx. 3.5" long with a slight 22 degree bend down towards the two 1/4" mesh baffles that I made for the inside of the canister to facilitate the oil dropping into the canister without being picked right back up in the exhaust fitting. Can you think of a negative impact the 1/4" od tube will have to the overall flow?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28GLa9T2CtI

 

I'm thinking of ordering one of these now... I had them installed on my STI and 03 Cobra but never thought to do it on an N/A application. Thinking of using this "micro catch can".

http://www.saikoumichi.com/micro_oil_catch_can_tank.htm

 

Looks good to me! I like the creativity.

Looks solid

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ce/247840-fs-pvc-oil-catch-can-pipe-bomb.html

 

Well here is a little update on my oil catch can journey. I glued and siliconed the interior baffles in place, silicone the top, and added a drain valve. The drain valve will have a piece of 1/4" Polyflow tubing coming off the bottom and will be tie wrapped to the lines going under the truck for easy draining into a container. I still need to pick up a 3" conduit hanger to secure the canister to the driver side fender. I will also pick up five feet of 3/8" fuel line hose, I have plenty of clamps. One step closer at least. oh, and these two guys were only about twenty feet from me when I was working on the truck.

As as expected....Tacoma mod pR0n..

 

I'm wondering, if since you put the piece of copper tubing in, if that will affect the air flow into the can...

 

I questioned that also. I guess time will tell, if it runs and does not through any codes I figure it will be ok. Pulling it out is no big deal if I have to, I just want the oil/vapor mixture to enter the canister lower than the exhaust port so it could contact the baffles and settle in the bottom of the can.

 

The increased volume will cause the vapor to condense into liquid but I do agree that having the baffles as an intermediary will help capture the oil in the vapor.

I'm about to do my first oil change since I installed the catch can. Looking forward to seeing the results.

 

Looks good!
Jelly of the drain valve

 

Well I picked up a couple of things today, still forgot the new PCV valve but I did get a little closer to completion before I had to get other things done. All that is left is replacing the PCV valve and do the final hookup and test. I ran and strapped the drain PolyFlow tubing under the truck for easy drainage into a container when needed. I did scratch-up the canister finish with the clamp but what the hell. More to follow...

Oh, sorry for the cell phone pics.

 

Why the extra filter?

 

mine should be here the end of the week/early next week.

 

pics of the valve? where did you buy it and did you have to tap the threads?

 

I will take some pics of another one. It is actually a 1/4" x 1/4" compression needle valve. The threads on the bottom of the canister are not tapped for an 1/8" MPT, they are more coarse. So I took one cap off and tried it, went in pretty tight so I used some "Leak Lock" sealant on it, screwed in it tight and let it cure overnight. I had gotten that valve years ago when I was doing Industrial Instrumentation. I ended up buying five feet of 3/8" fuel line which will leave a little left over but I wanted to be able to have smooth bends. The hanger is a 2.5" conduit hanger that I got at an electrical supply house for about $3.20. It bolted right up to one of the two existing bolt holes on the well.

And the fuel filter is used as the other gentleman did on his build thread to capture and monitor if anything makes it through the canister.

 

Here is a valve of the same manufacture just a different configuration (did not have another of same). The canister bottom drain opening in 1/8" size but must be a metric tap, 1/8" mpt is too small (fine) of threads, and 1/4" mpt is too large so the 1/4" compression threads seemed to fit fine. The thread sealant should ensure a tight seal. The one I used is a straight through design, not a 90 degree fitting as shown. Also my

$37 Fumoto F103N with LC-10 lever clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

Fumoto F103N valve arrived today for my next oil change in about 1k miles. Still have not finished the project, hope to do this weekend.

 

what do you guys think of this one? i like the price and looks well made
Silver Universal Aluminum Racing Oil Catch Tank Round Can Reservoir Turbo Engine | eBay