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Idaho BS thread in the PNW

Discussion in 'North West' started by Jensonbt, Aug 28, 2011.

  1. Nov 13, 2012 at 1:21 PM
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    3" Eibach Coils, 3" AP Springs, AP 6" Shackles Toytec Diff drop, BAMF Sliders, Deck plate mod,Volt meter, Highbeam mod, PIAA fogs, 18" Magnaflow, LED dash swap, Color matched Satoshi Grille, Custom Rear Plate Bumper
    Nevermind. Your right. I just looked at the service manual and it shows the drain and fill plug. Someone told me it couldnt be flushed without dropping it, guess they're wrong.
     
  2. Nov 13, 2012 at 1:38 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Could have meant a 100% flush?? Cause just draining it still leaves shit in there. Same with engine oil or coolant.
     
  3. Nov 13, 2012 at 1:53 PM
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
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    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    with manual trans and engin oil the best way to garantee i good change is to change it run it for a few min or miles then do it again. still not 100% but better than just draining and refilling. as far as coolant, power steering, Automatic transmitions, and break fluid goes those can be flushed 100%.
     
  4. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:02 PM
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
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    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    really it depends on the diff and the load going through it if it's a stock non trd tacoma rear end ive seen them with 100K on them and barrely needing changed. mine is a 4.88 and needs it every 30K and i run ams oil in mine. just look at the collor of the fluid if it's still clean then let it ride if it's getting dark time for some change.
     
  5. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:05 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    didn't you just do all those fluids like in spring?? i HIGHLY doubt your tranny and diffs need new fluilds.
     
  6. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:15 PM
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    um... I would argue that the diffs and manual tranny are less involved than the engine oil since there is no filter. Just drain and refill.
     
  7. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:25 PM
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    konstantenos
    Pocatello Idaho
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    First gen 4door monster in progress
    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    I have the 8.4 and it's got the lock right in it broken 2 center pins at this point so im gonna mod it into a mini spool hopping to not break the damn thing again. other than that it's a beast and i wouldn't worry about it. Brady is right the diffs and trans are easy if you have a fluid pump (found at any auto parts store for cheap) for the trans and a 17MM and 24MM 6point socket for the plugs.
     
  8. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:30 PM
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    Lazy ass:rolleyes::D haha
     
  9. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:33 PM
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    Hey Konsta is there a way to use one of your shop lifts to do my body lift or would jacks just be easier?

    I should have my bodylift this weekend and may have to bribe you with some beer or something to help me out:)

    Also some of the SIK guys are going out this Shelly this Saturday I was planning on going.
     
  10. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:49 PM
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    I was just looking at the service manual and it looks as easy as changing the rear diff fluid.
     
  11. Nov 13, 2012 at 8:56 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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  12. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:04 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea seems like a lots of stuff for a good start. Older camera tho..
     
  13. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:06 PM
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 SCv6 AutoTrans With Lots of Mods ADS COs w/Compression Adjusters Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Kartek 7" Limit Straps Plastics Guy Front Bumpstops Total Chaos Sprindle Gussets Custom Alcan Springs +800 lbs +3" ADS 10" Stroke Triple Bypass w/Resi Rear Shocks Custom Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren Bumpstops 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Black 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X 285/70r17 Falken A/T3w Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 255/85r16 Maxxis Bighorns Limited Edition (Relentless) Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport Selective Yellow Fog Lights in the Bumper Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro 4,000 Kelvin SAE Driving Lights with Clear Lenses on the Bumper Morimoto D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4300K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Dometic CFX 55im Fridge/Freezer Alpha II Hardshell RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack Denso 210-0461 105 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Haltech IC-7 Display with Mako Dash Insert Haltech Elite 2500 Standalone ECU Magnuson MP62 Supercharger w/URD 2.2" Pulley Denso 650cc Fuel Injectors Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump TransGo A340F Reprogramming Shift Kit Doug Thorley Headers 2.5" Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/Vibrant Resonator 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Midland MTX275 GMRS Radio w/Roof Mount Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    Digital Single Lens Reflex

    Toyota "recommends" doing the diffs and tcase every 30K. In my experience, the front diff and the tcase do not need it that often unless a majority of your mileage is spent in 4WD. Yours is not. Change those at 60K. The rear diff takes the most abouse by far. Change it at 30K. And if you are sincere about wanting to take care of the equipment (because it takes care of you <LOCKER>, :) use a full synthetic 75W90 gear oil in all three.

    For the tranny...

    When your tranny is cold in the winter mornings is is difficult to downshift to 1st gear?

    One of the best (and easiest) mods I ever did to my first Tacoma was to put synthetic lube in the 5-speed. Yours now has a 120K on it so it may not be as "tight" as mine was when new but the synth lube made it shift as smooth as butter. Synth lube also helps them to run cooler, dissipate heat better and last longer. Well worth the extra cost for that alone.

    Redline MTL is an amazing GL-4 type tranny lube that is well worth it.

    [​IMG]


    It is very easy. But you gotta understand Ben's thinking. :cool:
     
  14. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:22 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Any thoughts on the camera setup I posted Mike??
     
  15. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:23 PM
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    A very basic starter kit. In the long run tho, it may limit you.

    If you are serious about getting an SLR type camera. I have what I think is a better offer for you. For $400 I can put together the same kit, bag, strap, filters, larger media cards, slightly better Canon lenses and my old 20D camera body.

    The Canon 20D is a significant step up from that Rebel. Mine needs a good home and it might as well be with you. :cool:
     
  16. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:25 PM
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    I searched high and low for that shit all over this damn town and it was no where to be found!! So I finally just put some GL5 in my car's tranny even though Hyundai recommends GL4 only.
     
  17. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:32 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Canon 20D??

    Ugh I hate not knowing this stuff haha better then a rebel eh?? I like better :D what eh..what kind of kit you make hmm :) I'm genuinely interested.
     
  18. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:36 PM
    Digiratus

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    It is kinda hard to find somethimes. I don't know if they have stores in ID but I found the CarQuest Auto carries the full line locally. :woot:

    The Redline 75W90 is all I use in my diffs and Tcase.
     
  19. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:57 PM
    Digiratus

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    Ben is right regarding this, it'll be worth your while to do a little research on the 2 camera bodies to understand the advantages.

    I see one disadvantage. My 20D body has a ding/star mark (like a very small rock chip on your windshield) about a 1/4" wide on the back LCD. Its not in the very center, but off to the side a bit. You can see it when the screen is off. When a picture is being displayed, you cannot see it without looking for it. It has no impact on the quality of the photograph that the camera produces.

    Pluses for the body is it has a relatively low shutter count. Somewhere near 10K. IIRC, canon says that shutter is rated for 200K thereabouts.

    I need to do an inventory to be certain but from memory I have either 2 or 3 1GB CF cards I can give you. A decent camera bag to carry everything in. A nice "canon" strap, for sure 2 canon lenses. One is 28-105 and the other is a 70-200. Both are pretty good glass. Better than what is being offered in that kit on expo.
     
  20. Nov 13, 2012 at 9:58 PM
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    I checked. They carried Ams oil, but it was almost $30/qt! I just picked up some supertech syn 75w/90 gl5, same stuff I have in my diffs and transfer case on the Taco.
     

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