OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

Did you use the Sienna heated mirrors or the heated-pads?

 

Neither. The OP of my thread shows how the tow mirror set comes out of the box. You can order with the heat installed as an option. Just unbolt the factory mirrors, bolt these on and wire in.

I meant to specify that I was thanking you for the detail on the wiring of the heat elements.

 

Gotcha! That's what I get for not reading, I just looked at the fancy pictures

 

Ben, awesome write up. Just finished my mirror defrost, and followed your DIY with the exception of the mirrors. I opted for the handwarmers instead of the sienna mirrors.

 

Thanks man! Glad you found it helpful. They are a nice addition, especially with the cold weather coming in.

 

Def, thats why I did it today. Been getting the heavy dew in the am, and I know cold weather is coming. Actually bought everything in the spring, but havent been motivated enough to do it til today.

 

I just wanted to get back with everyone on my heated mirror install. Well, the new (replacement) switch came in today and when I hooked it up... everything works. I was relieved to say the least. It sure was frustrating trying to sort out if I'd made a mistake somewhere with the install. For those who chimed in with advice along the way, thank you. A special shout out to CtryBoyInMT. He spent a considerable amount of time through PMs helping me troubleshoot this beast. I really do appreciate his assitance as it was invaluable when I was questioning myself.

 

So a faulty NEW switch was the problem ? N-ever E-ver W-orked

 

Exactly! On one hand relieved... on the other, a little miffed that I spent so much time troubleshooting and second guessing myself. Well, it's all good now. Just going to dress up the wiring in the AM and call it good.

 

How did you actually trouble shoot and discover the bad brand new switch ? Power in - no power out in the on position ? Or something else.

 

Troubleshooting steps provided courtesy of CtryBoyInMT in quotes immediatly following. They helped me out and will likely help others out as well so, I'll post them here. I don't believe he will mind. He was invaluable in helping me sort this out.

"At first read, I have a gut feeling the switch may be at fault, but lets hope not.

If I ramble things you already know, don't get offended. I just want to make sure you have all the information so you don't have to stop and wait for my slow butt to reply to another PM!

You already did step one! Making sure the elements in the mirrors work.

Lets insure that the relay is working. Connect all the wiring from the mirrors to the relay. Grounds and positives. This leaves the 85 pin and the switch plug disconnected.

***Just a brainstorm thought that didn't fit anywhere but needs to be noted, but happens a lot. Triple check those terminal numbers, as every relay that has the schematic on them are cryptic at best. An easy thing to do is have the relay wiring clocked 90° (86 wire on 30 terminal, 30 wire on 85, 85 wire on 87 and 87 wire on 86 terminal)***

Use an alligator clip jumper (or similar jumper wire) and ground the 85 pin to a chassis ground. The relay should make a faint click and the mirror elements should activate. If the elements do NOT work, then the relay is bad.

If the elements heat and the relay is working, lets diagnose the switch.

Take the switch (terminals 1&2 are irrelevant to our tests, so lets leave them disconnected if able) and connect terminal (5) (uppermost terminal as viewed, installed in the dash) to our 12+ supply and terminal (3) to your ground.

Two methods exist: multi meter or test light. I'd prefer you use a multi meter since it's the correct tool for this application.
[multi meter]
With the 100's of different multi meters out there, I can't tell you specifics on yours, but set up and calibrate zero Ohms.
Connect the meter (set to OHM mode) from a chassis ground and the other lead to terminal 4. There should be infinite ohms (OPEN, ERR, OL, Etc.) digital readout or no movement of the needle depending on a digital vs. analog meter. Turn the supply power on (Ignition in most cases) and there should still be no indication of a connection. When you press the switch the indicator light (rectangle light, not dash lights) on the switch itself should turn on and the meter will show an Ohm reading close to "0.0" or the needle should go full scale. If all checks out as described, the switch is functioning properly.

If both the relay and switch works, then it has to be a bad wire somewhere in the system.

1. If relay is bad, you will need a new relay.

2. If the switch is bad, you will need a new switch. If so, I've had better results (since electrical item are hard to warranty) just returning the switch to the dealer stating something to the effect, didn't need it because when I removed old one from the dash, the connectors were corroded, so I cleaned them and now it works. Then go to another dealer and order a new one."

I hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the reply and thanks for posting the trouble shooting procedure also thanks to CtryBoyInMT for his work providing you and the rest of us with this information. As you say I'm sure it will help others out as well. This community is very generous with its help to others. I'm sure it gives many of the confidence to tackle jobs we never would have tried otherwise and to do them successfully. Thanks again.

 

Hey Benson, you wanna help me install these in my '13 Tacoma? I'm here in Olympia and could use a pro to disassemble the dash/doors. I'm getting the Muth mirrors, should be in in a few weeks (the girl at Muth is doing some work to check the mounts/mirror size)...will buy beer/split wood in exchange for help lol.

Ryan

 

Yeah man, no problem. Let me know when you get all your stuff and we'll pick a day that works.

 

Cool...lol, I just realized its been almost two months since I joined this site, and that was my first post. Maybe I'll get a few things done if we ever get a weekend without rain.

 

Any one know if these mirrors are the same as the 2012 tacoma Trd?

 

Travis, are you asking about the mirror glass itself, or the whole housing?

If referring to the Mirror Glass itself...it looks like they are different (can't say for sure since I have a 2011).

Here are the part #s for each

2012+

• Driver's Side (Part # 87961-0E060)
• Passenger Side (Part # 87931-0E070)

2005-2011

• Driver's Side (Part # 87909-04190)
• Passenger Side (Part # 87908-04180)

 

I was refering to the mirror glass, i wanna do the heated mod for my truck, but not sure if the glass is different on the 2012.
Everyone that ive found thats done the mod, has had 2011 and older.

 

Without actually popping the mirror-glass out of the 2012 model and comparing side-by-side, I can't say yes or no.

I did edit my post earlier to show the different part #s, which in my opinion would indicate they are different than the '05-'11 models. Hope this helps.

And I still have my OEM Glass (non-Sienna) that I replaced. I could send you 1 (or both) if you wanted to pay shipping and compare them to yours.

 

I saw the edit, and the part #'s make me think the same thing.

Im wondering, could you take a pic of your mirror and mabey measure it in a few spots and i will compare it to mine. Otherwise i could go to the dealer and look at the 2012's of other models and see what i can find.