New England B.S. Thread

Meh i have found my drums never work they get full of mud and then get shreded and stop working in 500 miles. Iv redone my rear brakes 4 times in 2 years and they dont work right now either.

 

If you end up with a tire like the KM2's, make sure they're siped. Otherwise they will not be good in the snow.

I know you mentioned the Firestone A/T's were cheaper but I thought they were a pretty decent tire. It's one I'm considering when I need tires next because they offer them in the size I want.

 

235's? lol

 

Probably 245s. 235s will put me into an E-rated tire. There are some that are rated lower but with a tire that skinny and tall, I'd think you'd want the stiffer sidewall anyways.

 

Got the sled in a million pieces right now, needs some attention but it should rip once im done with it

 

I'd at least get a 265/75 especially since you're lifted

 

When I get some big boy FJ wheels to put them on

 

The one thing I will say is be sure to consider your "actual driving conditions" do you spend more time on road or off road. The reason being, aggressive tires can be very loud and have the tendency to pick up stones and cause vibrations. My opinion is to try and pick a reasonable tire that will serve you best in your real world conditions.

 

They'll be just as tall, just not as wide (235's would be taller). I'll actually do better in the snow, still get good mileage out of it and, because the height is the same, off road performance shouldn't really be affected for any trails I'll do in the near future. I think it'll look alright. Worst case, I'll shop for a set of wheels like Rob's so they stick out a little further.

 

Such a difference with the new front rotors! No more pulling to the left, no more massive pulsation, my mileage is up and I can coast now.... Pretty sure I had a frozen ebrake, and me breaking the ebrake fixed it.

I still have damaged rear rotors though

 

Why won't they come off, are they just rusted to the hub?

 

No, it would wiggle and I could get the center of the rotor flush with the end of the lug post thingies by using bolts, but I couldn't remove the tension from the ebrake and tried using bolts to push the rotor up multiple times. No idea if its rusted or what have you, but it sucks! Two pieces fell out on my last attempt. I said fuck it and did the left front (this was at 10pm. I was cold, pissed, and frustrated)

 

Oooh... sounds like fun. If the rotor is coming off the hub then at least the rotor rusting to your hub isn't the issue. When that happens, it can be a biotch to get the rotors off. Good luck destroying your e-brake! Hopefully it pops off next time you get the wrench to it. When you have the jack bolts pulling the rotor away from the hub, I'd try to stick a straw behind the rotor and drown it with brake clean (you can use PB Blaster but you'll have to clean everything out really really well with Brakleen since you don't want that crap on your brakes).

 

Good call. I was gonna do that but then lost interest and wanted to just drop the tools and go inside. I was rather unhappy haha

 

I feel your pain. I was breaking down the old grille guard and swapping my wheels and tires at 9:00 last night, it was freaking cold to be working outside. That grille guard is a PITA to get apart when it's not anchored to the truck!

 

Lol I can't wait to take a sawzall to my damn brush guard!!!

I need a light bar or a steel bumper, cause that Westin brush guard has got to go

 

Stupid question but Did you back off the e-brake so as to clear the drum

 

I just came back from the range this new toy is going to be $$$$ to shoot cause it is one of the easiest, most enjoyable of all my guns to shoot

 

I can't get any new toys for a while...

 

I told you I am willing to bring guys out. I just have to check club rules about how many guest one or two at a time