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Help please, shock tower nuts unremovable!!

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by bellero, Nov 18, 2012.

  1. Nov 18, 2012 at 4:05 PM
    #21
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Blue wrench or Sawzall then.
     
  2. Nov 18, 2012 at 11:30 PM
    #22
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Seriously try the crc freeze off. I haven't gotten to really use it yet. It smells cool though. I would do that and then try the Jberry hammer/wrench method.
     
  3. Nov 25, 2012 at 10:22 AM
    #23
    bellero

    bellero [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I finally removed the top three bolts ON ONE SIDE!! I had to cut them with the dremel and I had to cut thru the top plate a bit to remove the flange.

    Guess what now, the lower shock bolt won't come out!! I removed the nut and washer and it won't bulge. I banged so hard on it that the two tabs holding the shock to the lower arm are starting to bend!!

    I'm very close to abandon the friggin project!!
     
  4. Nov 25, 2012 at 10:28 AM
    #24
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Damn...does your truck live in salt water...?
     
  5. Nov 25, 2012 at 10:29 AM
    #25
    bellero

    bellero [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No Worse, it's called Canada!
     
  6. Nov 25, 2012 at 1:27 PM
    #26
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Blue wrench FTW
     
  7. Feb 19, 2014 at 9:18 AM
    #27
    NerdAlert

    NerdAlert Well-Known Member

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    I'm reviving this thread because I took this advice to use a nut splitter on my stipped and seized top nut.

    DO NOT use a nut splitter on the top nut. The nut is made of aluminum (softish metal) and therefore is not brittle, so instead of cracking in half, the nut splitter imply compresses the nut further towards the threads. It won't split, it will actually get tighter.

    Took me a couple hours trying many different things to get the nut off afterwards. Eventually what worked was a drill, which was removing material from the nut.
     

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