Installed D-Rings in the Bed (Pics)

Huh?

Also, speaking of the bed bolts, even though my Taco is only about a month old it had some rust on the bolts in the same spot others have shown on their pics. Although, they did come out very easy with very little force.

I did use some old (and possibly contaminated) anti-size that I found hidden in my garage. It must have been there for 25 years or so. I figured it was better than nothing. My torque wrench wasn't working so I snugged them down pretty tight. Now you've got me wondering if I should loosen them just a bit.

 

Sub for later mod...lol...

 

It's my understanding that as long as the bolt head mating surface remains clean and anti sieze is used on the threads only, then the torque value remains unchanged.

There is a thread that exists where the science got deep where they explored using anti sieze on lug nut threads, after much discussion and testimonials, and some real science as I recall it was found that, it's the mating surface of the bolt head and not the threads of the bolt where the force is stored from wrenching a bolt. The conclusion was, keep the bolt head clean, supply anti seize to threads and use factory torque values.

 

This is mostly incorrect. When torque ratings are specified it takes into account the elasticity of the material used to make sure the threaded shank will be stretched a specific amount (Head and flywheel bolts are a great example and why they should never be reused once torqued.) This stretch contributes to the tension of the bolt making sure it stays torqued. This is why there are different torque values for stainless bolts verses regular steel of otherwise same dimensions. The contact of the bolt head to the material face only contributes a portion of the overall friction other then giving the threads something to pull against. This friction is also taken into account when determining total torque and is called running torque, the amount of force necessary to overcome the friction to turn the bolt. Running torque does not amount to much on a large diameter bolt but can be substantial on a smaller screw.

When you introduce coatings and lubricants onto threads, the normal torque values must be adjusted to compensate for the changes in overall friction.

What I am saying here was not quoted by some guy in a tire shop over torquing your lug nuts with an air ratchet! I work in the aerospace industry where my employer requires I maintain a torque certification as part of my job duties and I am regularly retested to assure I am competent. I regularly work alongside structural engineers who I have had extensive discussions concerning lubricants and torque values an I can tell you any lubricant using molybdenum such as anti-seize should receive a lesser torque value, like as much as 20% less.

Did a brief surf after posting this and found this great resource with some nice info http://mdmetric.com/tech/data1torque.html

 

Anyhow, why would you feel the need to use anti-seize on these bolts to begin with? The factory never thought it necessary to put it on when they bolted the bed to the frame, why would you think it's necessary? Anti-seize is only used on bolts you want to remove in the future and in my opinion it just makes it more likely the vibrations will loosen the bolts over time. I would feel like hell pulling away from a stop light and leave my bed behind in the street!

 

Yeah I know, doesn't he ever shut up?

One last thing to consider and then I am done. The torque values you are considering are meant to fasten two pieces of metal together. You are bolting through a softer, more compressible composit material, therefore your torque value will be less then normal for that size fastener. Best case is find out what the factory used to torque those specific bolts originally and use that.

Myself I would just tighten them "wrench tight", snug them down then give one more tug on the wrench. If you are still concerned about the bolts loosening I would use a lock washer. That would prolly give you the needed clearence to keep the edge of the bolt head rubbing on the d-ring base too.

 

Just slap on some anti-seize to prevent rusting & ease of removal in the future. Tighten them down....and .... you're good.

The torque wrench you own isn't finely calibrated enough to pinpoint such a minute difference in torque between using anti-seize & not using it.

And the amount of torque difference will get you....What? It won't make the bed bolts any stronger. And it won't allow you to tow/haul anymore than what Toyota recommends for these trucks.

 

Just wanted to say thanks for this writeup, i installed two extra OEM tie downs a few days ago and have two more to put in the middle. The OEM d-rings were $20 per pair with my dealer discount, i think they were $25 list.

The part about Dremeling the raised portion to get the washers off the original bolts was useful .

It came in handy already, bought a new tool shed and the box was literally the same exact dimensions of the bed. Had to leave the tailgate open to get it home. Extra d-rings and a few ratchet straps, no problem!

 

You live in silicone valley, your bolts come out easy. Come to chicago and you will apply to almost all bolts taken out.

Toyota also thought some form of grease or protective film was not needed on the lower a-arm cam adjustments which are used to adjust your alignment.

There are many on here that cannot get a vehicle aligned due to them being seized. Toyota is like any company, they are in it for the profit.

You are correct that a lubricating substance will change values and how bolts stretch.

 

That is interesting. Can you tell from the pics if your bolts are of different size?

I appreciate your post and the link. I like knowing how and why things work and I like having accurate information. I see after referencing boltscience.com and rereading my source I realize what I committed to memory was in fact wrong.

I found this quote very telling:

However, for those that are interested and wish to read up on the original lug nut anti-seize discussion here is my source:--engineersedge.com (with all the links to the engineering and science).

If you actually removed your bolts or even looked at the pictures in this thread you would realize how ridiculous your statements sounds. Any reasonable person would realize there is a problem long before their bolts loosen to the point to allow the bed to slide off the frame. The bolts are in fact quite long. It's been stated earlier in this thread that the reason to apply anti-seize is to help prevent corrosion and rust.

Also, if torqued properly, vibrations should be a non issue here.

See quote:

Thanks for the tip, but nobody is guessing here. The established torque value of 60 ft lbs is the Toyota factory spec for bed bolts.

 

So since the factory torqued them dry at 60 lb-ft and your bolts are lubricated that would make your actual torque something like 48 lb-ft.​

 

All this talk about torque settings on non critical bolts I don't get. If you want to take it apart someday, then put a quality grade of anti-seize on it and tighten it down. If you have turned enough wrenches in your day you know what feels right and also the "I think I will give it just a little more...."snap", damn it, now I got to get that son of a bitch out" situation. YMMV

 

Thanks. This discussion was helpful. I learned something new.

 

Anybody here actually put the d-rings on the bedsides with the backing plate? I got a set months ago at the dealer and still haven't installed them. I don't have motorcycles or quad, just need some in the front and the bed cleats are weak.

 

Thanks, just what I was looking for1

 

Just installed mine last night by myself. Another post mentioned jamming a piece of wood against the backing plate to keep it from turning. Great advice. Drill the holes where instruction says. Tape the D-ring in place. Get the backing plate threads started push flush against the bed. Jam the piece of wood and shim against the plate. Take the tape off and tighten away.

 

Oh ya, don't forget to take that little plastic shipping washer off.

 

x2

 

sub

 

Cheapest set of d rings ive seen besides that army surplus warehouse.

http://www.strapworks.com/Metal_D_Ring_w_Clip_Anodized_p/drcblk.htm

I find the lack of tie downs almost laughable in my '12 TRD sport, not to mention the four that a do have (2 d rings near the tailgate and 2 anchors on the bottom corner of the walls on the other side of the bed) are busy holding down my sandbags to my wheel wells for some extra weight.