Hub/Bearing assembly

Just replaced both front bearings. 187,200km. Let's see how they hold up. Also replaced all wheel seals.

 

Which I see what you are saying, just the parts stores I deal with call that "unit" a hub/bearing assembly, hence the names I referred to. Please understand, I am not trying to argue with anyone here. I am just trying to show what a common name is for a part, regardless of who the manufacturer is. Automotive parts builders try to keep a common name nomenclature so that people can order the right part.
By definition a spindle is "spindle [ˈspɪndəl]n3. (Engineering / Mechanical Engineering) any of various parts in the form of a rod, esp a rotating rod that acts as an axle, mandrel, or arbor.

Since the part that the axle shaft slides into acts as "an axle, mandrel, or arbor" in a front driven axle, I am correct in the name of a spindle.
I am not saying that the steering knuckle is not ALSO called a spindle, because I have already agreed to that.

I guess names do change in use as time goes by. I think this is a situation where old-school meets new-school and we are both right, from what we have learned in our experiences.

Beyond the fact that technically we are all right in what we have, I think we are just beyond this.

 

One thing I can suggest is to check preload after 500 miles. Also be easy on new bearings for next 500-1000 miles.

 

As I recall Blue, these are a bearing/hub assembly, hence no preload to set or adjust. Once your axle shaft nut is tightened to spec and cotter-pinned in, you are good to go. I have never needed to do any adjustment on a customer's bearing of this type. Now the older type of bearings, yes, you should check preload after 500 miles.

 

Maybe he means check the torque of the nut after 500?

 

\/\/THIS\/\/

Torque of the nut is a preload and needs to be at 173. After 500 miles bearing should be fully seated so makign sure its at 173 (203 for pre-runners) is a good maintenance.

setting bearing to 173 is adjusting pre-load. There is almost no difference between old style bearing setup and new one with exception that new setup is one time use. In fact our wheel bearings are exact copy of inner bearing from solid axle LC.
What we can not do is use fish scale to tune preload. since we have CV in way (vs, doing that with no flange on solid axle)
So Toyota came up with 173 as what the number should be. It makes bearing on tighter side especially right after installing. But once grease settles and bearing rollers find their spots. it needs to be put back to 173.

 

While I accept it is your choice to do this, I have never had to retighten or retorque one of those axle shaft nuts, and have never had any problems with one returning to my shop. I will however do some more research through my bearing suppliers and a few manufacturers to get their thoughts on the mater. I have not seen this retorque requirement anywhere in the procedure, but will research and see what they say. After doing hundreds of these type of bearings over the past several years, I have yet to have one return due to a torque issue of the main nut.

 

Me neither, but it's not a bad idea to check it.

 

Okay so I've been searching around here for a while and am a bit confused. Im in the process of replacing my wheel bearings and I'm planning on ordering these http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118250 but what seals do I get with them? Im having a hard time finding the exact names and rockauto's catalog has a lot of similar things.

 

isnt the nut a castle nut? and with a cotter pin throught it?

 

I am not saying its in manual, and when doing customer truck I would think it would be hard to say "Please come back in 500 miles to re torque the bearing" most likely people would shrug that
I knew I had to do this because it was in my Land Cruiser manual so I figured I check just in case. And it did need a tiny re-torque.
So its not required but one of those "good old fashion steps"
I checked mine and they definitely needed re-torque. I doubt not doing it will cause bearings to fail, they probably won't last as long. I just like my truck to be tight and hate when cars float due to wheel bearings.

 

Nut is regular, there is a metal piece that goes over the nut to lock i nplace. That piece is like castle nut.
Its not nut getting lose its When you press races and torque to spec you never get bearings sited 100%. So even if nut does not move still in first 500 miles bearing will adjust and usually that means they will be on less tight side.

 

Just got back from NAPA..they want $90 per side to press out old bearings, and press in new ones...I just laughed.. Harbor Freight here I come! Anyone suggest what ton press I need?

 

LOL... your NAPA is crazy. My NAPA was $20. Did your NAPA have the machine shop in it? Most these days do not and have to send it out. I made sure I went to one that did so I could talk to the machinist

 

yes, machine shop in the back..Just physically laughed at the guy..

 

Get the big one.

It works GREAT for pressing the barrel and rivets on an AK47 receiver!

 

should I pick up these two for my front?:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-Front...yota|Model:Tacoma&hash=item27cd9838bd&vxp=mtr

 

Ahh. I do see what you mean, and perhaps that is why my method has not failed me. I tighten to spec with the tire mounted, then spin the wheel assembly several times while bringing it to it's final torque.


To the OP, if you are getting a press from Harbor Freight, I suggest getting the 20 ton if you are planning any more future work with it. I broke their 12 ton press in the first month when doing a set of Toyota bearings! The arbor bent.

 

doooo it! get timken from rockauto though. they've got a 5% off coupon too. about to order one, but not sure which seals i need to replace. there's 23342 of them