92 pickup transmission oil seal problem

Hey guys, I posted a thread over on Yotatech about this issue, but I'm not getting too many responses. I figure transmissions generally are similar across generations, so maybe you guys at TW can help me out, too.

http://www.yotatech.com/f116/92-pickup-possible-transmission-leak-speedo-sensor-problem-pics-261148/

I'm not too concerned about the VSS problem yet. I'm much more concerned about the oil leak. It sounds like the problem is a dry oil seal in the end of the transmission, but if you guys think it might be something else, I'm open to other thoughts.
If it is the oil seal, any suggestions on how to replace it? Should I just find a mechanic to do it? I haven't worked at all on transmissions or drive lines before and I don't have large tools.

Thanks!

 

Early evening bump!

 

Bump! Should I drive it much?

 

Read all the posts at the other site .
They were giving you some fairly good advice .
Replace the rear transfer case seal .
Remove the driveshaft and take the companion flange off .Once the companion flange has been removed you can remove the seal . You may need a speedy sleeve to repair the companion flange or possibly replace the companion flange if the flange has a deep groove caused by the oil seal .

Vss ...sensors drop out with temperature .
Do you have a DVOM ( digital volt ohm meter ) to test the vss when the signal drops out ?

 

Thanks! I've never done any repair like this before, though, and it sounded like I'll need tools that I don't have, so I'm wondering if I should just take it somewhere to do it or meet up with people around here to get help.

As far as the VSS, it was cold when I tried it yesterday and the speedo worked just fine, so I honestly have no idea what's going on...
I don't have a DVOM, but I'll bet I can find someone who does or I can get one pretty easily.

My big question is, should I drive it long distances? I was planning on driving it about 100 miles tomorrow and then in mid december I am driving to SD from Sacramento, which is about 500 miles. I can definitely find time to do it before the 500 mile trip, but I will not be able to get it done by tomorrow...

I tried searching how much driving you can do on a leaky oil seal, but all the results I found were talking about how to replace it.

 

Just found this excellent step-by-step instruction thread on yotatech: http://www.yotatech.com/f116/rear-oil-seal-transfer-case-224390/index2.html
Posted for future reference.

Also, it looks like someone was driving for a while with the leaky seal, so I'm guessing my little 100mile trip this weekend should be okay, especially since I haven't driven with it for too many miles.

 

Thats a $50 dollar repair in a shop and about half an hour of their time if you supply the oil seal and fluid .
I would almost bet that the seal only leaks when you are driving up hills .
As long as you continue to keep the transfer case filled with fluid , you can drive it with a slow leak for a long time . Keeps the truck well lubricated and rust free but is this good advice ? no .

Here is a short write up on vehichle speed sensors .
http://www.ehow.com/way_5452013_troubleshooting-vehicle-speed-sensor.html

 

So I was all set to replace the seal and then I tried to loosen the bolts attaching the U- joint to the companion flange and they wouldn't budge... I added some WD 40 and let it soak for about 15 min. and it still wouldn't move. Any suggestions? I'm thinking I'll give it one more chance and then I'll take it to a mechanic.

 

Do you have a heat source ? oxy acetelyne ?
Strange that you need heat for 4 small nutts ?

 

WD40 is a good solvent. It is not a good lubricant.
Use Liquid Wrench penetrating oil.

 

I do but I'm hesitant to use an open flame with transmission oil lingering around that area...I would not want a fire to start under the truck while I'm under there.

I think I'll try this next. Should I spend much time getting the wd40 off or just wipe as much as I can off and then apply the oil?

Thanks for the help, guys!

 

Just apply the penetrating oil.

Heat as a last resort, and I wouldn't use anything hotter than propane.

 

Sounds good.
Yeah my heat source is a propane torch. Even that makes me nervous.

 

Just tried with the penetrating oil. The first time I wiped off the bolts, added oil around the nut and washer side, then tried wrenching it after about 3 minutes...nothing. Then I added more and let it sit for about 10 minutes...still nothing. Now I'm going to try it tomorrow after letting the oil sit overnight and maybe tomorrow during the day it'll be warmer, so that should help.

 

Yea let it soak overnight. If your having trouble with the driveshaft bolts, wait 'til you get to the flange nut. That will be fun if you don't have air tools. I hope you atleast have a breaker bar.

 

You will most likely spin the output trying to remove the nut like I did (yes, with the transmission in gear, spinning the motor). I just read a neat trick on ih8mud.com. Drill holes in a piece of steel angle (you will need some pretty stout angle) to mount to the flange and wedge it against the frame to keep the flange from spinning.

or

A giant pipe wrench on the flange and wedged against the ground

or

put the breaker bar on the nut and against the frame, crank up the truck and put it in gear

 

yeah...about that...
I have a pipe that I can put over the end of my socket wrench to lengthen it, though. I feel like the driveshaft bolts are actually stuck, though. I tried using the pipe on the wrench for those bolts earlier and the wrench started flexing and began to deform the nut head, so I stopped.
I can get a breaker bar easily enough, though. We'll see if I even get these drive shaft bolts off first

 

I heard to put it in 4low and in gear

 

Chock the wheels too. But good luck getting those driveshaft bolts off first, sounds like a PITA.

 

I've used this trick before, but it IS dangerous, i used it for some suspension parts (ball joints) on my old 88.. take a propane torch, heat up the nut all around, and spray the liquid wrench on the nut side as this will suck the penetrant into the threads. If you do try this I am not responsible for anything that happens, and it will smoke some. Also, try using an impact gun on this if possible