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Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by jberry813, Feb 5, 2011.

Page 95 of 206
  1. Dec 7, 2012 at 4:34 PM
    #1881
    Blackdawg

    #1881
    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Very cool!
     
    Blackdawg, Dec 7, 2012
    #1881
  2. Dec 7, 2012 at 5:17 PM
    #1882
    jberry813

    #1882
    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    And a few more detail shots of the jack/skid and how it's all mounted to the truck.

    CA8E7B0C-6B10-4641-B108-4211BB300CF4-159_fa413087ce11dc0d8f97a04f4f13385501a427b2.jpg

    0B5F2ECC-ECA3-47BB-A130-F292FB538E3F-159_4f3bf64f1c7d6c708e5d6061335f815887117d8a.jpg

    14D62BA7-8643-47C0-BE80-C3D0DF3B1F5C-159_b8eab3012c17700f1f1d6f652668fb27b73cbb3d.jpg

    265C67C1-83CC-4679-9FFC-3E1749F1AD1D-159_575a9199088d10e3b3db8989838d8d0b6d37e962.jpg
     
    jberry813, Dec 7, 2012
    #1882
  3. Dec 7, 2012 at 6:09 PM
    #1883
    Socalrunner

    #1883
    Socalrunner Toyota Its Like A Jeep Thing Only Better

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    Looks Good Jason. What jack is that?
     
    Socalrunner, Dec 7, 2012
    #1883
  4. Dec 7, 2012 at 6:27 PM
    #1884
    jberry813

    #1884
    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    2 ton Harbor Freight aluminum jack.
     
    jberry813, Dec 7, 2012
    #1884
  5. Dec 7, 2012 at 7:00 PM
    #1885
    Slodgetto

    #1885
    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Well, do you want a stronger axle or just a wider axle? Because the common axle that Taco LT guys like to run (like Jerry) is only wider... not stronger. This axle is found on any T100 or 00-06 Tundra, btw. It uses the same third member (so-called 8.4") as a non-locking tacoma (like Jerry mentioned) and the axle shafts are no thicker than Tacoma shafts... Sooo same strength.
    As long as it's not from an 07 and up.. haha Unless you want the 9.5" or 10.5" diff!!! :laugh: :eek: I don't even know how wide those monsters are...
     
    Slodgetto, Dec 7, 2012
    #1885
  6. Dec 7, 2012 at 7:07 PM
    #1886
    jberry813

    #1886
    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    That's where you're wrong. Strength of an axle housing inherently come from the axle tube diameter. The taco axle is a short hair smaller than 3" diameter. The tundra axle is a short hair smaller than 3.25" diameter. Further the axle shafts themselves, although they have the same 31 spline count, the tundra axles shafts are significantly thicker. The last 1" before they go into the third member they taper down whereas the taco axles are the same diameter from brake drum to third member.

    That said the 8.4" third member is identical, but I won't agree to the statement that the Tundra and Tacoma have the same strength.

    And the 07+ is a major no-go. Fucking 5x150 bolt pattern sucks a fat one.
     
    jberry813, Dec 7, 2012
    #1886
  7. Dec 7, 2012 at 7:33 PM
    #1887
    Slodgetto

    #1887
    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Good to know! As for the housing measurements, you're totally right about the tube diameter and strength. I had no idea the Tundra axles are .25" wider in diameter! :eek: But wouldn't a trussed taco axle have the same effect, and maybe increase rigidity even more than a stock tundra axle?

    Also didn't know the shafts are thicker... What you said doesn't really make sense to me, though. Wouldn't the axle shaft only be as strong as the thinnest part of it?? (ie: exact diameter of taco shaft) If it's going to snap, it'll snap/twist where the splines enter the carrier or just strip the splines in the carrier... In that case, wouldn't the tundra shafts be the exact same strength as the taco shafts? Or is this not the case? lol :eek:

    I guess I'll modify my statement... :D At this point, it seems to me that a Tundra axle is no stronger than a trussed Taco axle.

    Sorry for the thread jack haha :eek:
     
    Slodgetto, Dec 7, 2012
    #1887
  8. Dec 7, 2012 at 7:43 PM
    #1888
    jberry813

    #1888
    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Trussed tundra > Trussed taco

    I'll agree with your statement when dealing with a full float axle, not a semi float as the tundra/taco are. When dealing with a semi float axle, the part you should be worried most with are the ends closest to the flanges where the roller bearings all. This is the part of the axle that supports the weight of the truck and cargo, not the part that goes into the third member. If you're going to bend a semi float axle, it's going to bend where the weight is supported.

    In the end, if you stack up the tundra and taco axle shafts....I'll take the tundra any day. You gotta imagine, the tundra is over 1000 pounds heavier than the tacoma, closer to 2000 for the DC 4x4. If the axle is strong enough for that, it's good enough for my tacoma.
     
    jberry813, Dec 7, 2012
    #1888
  9. Dec 7, 2012 at 8:47 PM
    #1889
    Slodgetto

    #1889
    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    True, dat!

    And again... lol I'm stuck in a crawling perspective. I just realized, that's my problem in this convo. Our ideas of desireable strengths are slightly different.

    When I say "strength" I'm talking torque (breakage from big, heavy tires, short gears, sudden, high traction, n' crap). I see now that, from a LT perspective, you have to worry more about weight and bending stuff from jumps and high-speed hits... Now I totally see how the Tundra axle helps strength-wise for you LT guys. Thanks and :sorry:

    Would you agree that a Tundra axle is pretty much worthless on a taco meant for crawling? Considering the cost/effort to swap?
     
    Slodgetto, Dec 7, 2012
    #1889
  10. Dec 7, 2012 at 8:55 PM
    #1890
    white toy taco

    #1890
    white toy taco 505 Member

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    damn ^thats what TW is all about. i just learned so many new things by reading those few posts
     
    white toy taco, Dec 7, 2012
    #1890
  11. Dec 7, 2012 at 9:10 PM
    #1891
    jberry813

    #1891
    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    I wouldn't say worthless at all, especially if you can find a deal on one like I did. Most the cost involved is labor, and you're no stranger to doing your own work. The beauty of the tundra axle is it uses the same third member as any 8.4. Pinion flange is identical regardless of whether you have an 8.0, 8.4 taco or 8.4 tundra. The kicker is the tundra axle is 6" wider than the taco. Why swap it out unless you have something similar up front?

    On the other side of the coin, take worst case scenario and you completely obliterate your rear axle like I did. I mean, what's the most common remedy? You find another taco axle, you find a tundra axle, or go Ford 9"? Taco and tundra for the most part are really going to be the same amount of work. The only difference is you'll weld your own spring perches to the Tundra axle (which is in my opinion an advantage cause you can set pinion angle correct without any adapters or CB drops). At least with the tundra axle you'll be marginally stronger than the taco and keep your 31 spline. If you decide to go ford 9" and you've got anything from a 28 spline to 40 spline and have to deal with a crossover u joint conversion or a custom companion flange to bolt the Toyota flange yoke to.

    What does it all boil down to? As you said, cost and effort. Quite honestly I had no problem rocking the taco axle till I destroyed it. I was in no hurry to swap it out, nor would I have if it wasn't for my incident.
     
    jberry813, Dec 7, 2012
    #1891
  12. Dec 7, 2012 at 9:42 PM
    #1892
    92LandCruiser

    #1892
    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    My taco shaft is about 1.3" wide at narrowest part.

    It tapers up to the wheel bearing at about 1.77".

    I'll get some calipers and get some real number and measure the housing too. No tapers at the end of our housings either. Dunno wall thickness though.

    Just FYI.

    10.5 ring gear FTW though, possible to get some custom wheel spacers 5 to 6 lug made here in town by that place? I'm not sure the width of the new 10.5 Tundra axle though. (still semi float :( )

    Probably easier to run a 9" I guess.

    IMO, for crawling, you're more likely to break a 3rd than a shaft. The Tundra axle may be good for beefier shafts but then you're still looking at an 8" ring gear. You could just run chromoly shafts as well, but same story with the 3rd.
     
    92LandCruiser, Dec 7, 2012
    #1892
  13. Dec 16, 2012 at 6:55 PM
    #1893
    losers101

    #1893
    losers101 Well-Known Member

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    Hey Jason I was just wondering how you like your sub setup? I was either planning to do something like you did or go full out fiberglass but I'm just not sure if it's worth all the work. Thanks in advance
     
    losers101, Dec 16, 2012
    #1893
  14. Dec 16, 2012 at 7:13 PM
    #1894
    jberry813

    #1894
    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    "Worth" is all relative. I'm not going to be winning any awards, and I'm not going to pretend it's the best possible setup I could do. That said, my setup gets the job done and suites my needs just fine. I keep all my back seat space and put a little much needed bass in the overall less than mediocre stock setup.

    Fiberglass is a lot of work. I did a custom glass box in my tundra, and it's...well...it's a lot of work, work that I don't enjoy at all. Fiberglass work annoys the shit out of me actually. Everyone has their talents and preferences, and if I never have to do fiberglass work ever again, I'll be perfectly content.
     
    jberry813, Dec 16, 2012
    #1894
  15. Dec 16, 2012 at 8:32 PM
    #1895
    losers101

    #1895
    losers101 Well-Known Member

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    Yea I'm not looking to win any competitions either I just wanted a little bump in the cab, nothing ass rattling. I think I'm just going to go the foam and dynamat route with my two kicker 8". Thanks
     
    losers101, Dec 16, 2012
    #1895
  16. Dec 17, 2012 at 1:28 PM
    #1896
    Parker515

    #1896
    Parker515 Member

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    How hard was it to cut out those spaces under your rear seats for the subs? May do the same myself..
     
    Parker515, Dec 17, 2012
    #1896
  17. Dec 17, 2012 at 4:54 PM
    #1897
    jberry813

    #1897
    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    It was easy...they are precut from the factory. :D
    I used the factory cubby holes. I just had to cut out a piece of 1/2" MDF for each side to fit the cubby holes using the cubby doors as a stencil and then cut out a 10" circle for my subs. Seal it all up and done!
     
    jberry813, Dec 17, 2012
    #1897
  18. Dec 17, 2012 at 11:23 PM
    #1898
    Blackdawg

    #1898
    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Hey Jason oh god of LT :bowdown:

    Can I use manual hubs with a LT kit?? I don't see why not but wasn't sure if the tundra axles would work..I'd like them as ill have a locker up front

    Never mind found my answer..shitty.
     
    Blackdawg, Dec 17, 2012
    #1898
  19. Dec 18, 2012 at 12:02 AM
    #1899
    DIRT YOTA

    #1899
    DIRT YOTA Aka EL ROJO

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    Wish asin or what ever it's called made the conversion kit for tundees too!
     
    DIRT YOTA, Dec 18, 2012
    #1899
  20. Dec 18, 2012 at 12:04 AM
    #1900
    Blackdawg

    #1900
    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea from what I've found you can make it work. You just swap the tacoma manual hub out end onto the tundra axle. Works like a charm.

    Some say its a pain to do, other say its easy.

    I don't think it would be that bad really seeing as to how you mod them anyways with the Porsche boots and what not.

    I'm just trying to decide if it worth looking for 4 of each axle for two spares. And if it's worth it with an arb locker
     
    Blackdawg, Dec 18, 2012
    #1900
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