Valve Cover Gasket Leak?

Hey guys!

First post and I already need help...
But seriously, did a search and came up empty.

It seems my 2010 V6 with 50k miles has developed a small oil leak (seep maybe) from the passenger side valve cover in several spots. Wouldn't be at all concerned if the truck were a little older, but with the other side being so clean, I'd hate to let this go if the warranty will cover it.




Any chance this is something the dealer would cover under warranty or am I being way too demanding?

They practically laughed me out of the service department when I asked them to replace the fan motor that sounded like a banshee at 20k miles.

Should I just tighten up the bolts and let it go?

 

It should be covered under the power train warranty. Make them install a new gasket.

 

Wipe it off and call it a day.

 

2007 4.O double cab . Just had this done on both sides today at 78,000 miles. It was covered by Toyota certified preowned warranty which goes to 100,000 miles. 3 year 36,000 is up for you but there maybe a TSB for this issue. It is an 8 hour job.

 

HOLY CRAPPPPPPP AN 8 HOUR JOB?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!?! WHATTTTTTTT?!?!??!!??!!?!

 

That is not enough to be called a leak. With all the different metals that the motor is made of, and they all expand at different rates. There is going to be a little weeping. If I was the mechanic, I would clean it off and just tell you to leave it be.

 

There's a TSB for it and it's covered under the 5 year, 60K mile warranty.

Do a search for timing leak.

 

Aluminum expands at the same rate bud. If its an all aluminum block it should all expand at the same rate. There should be no excuse for that leakage.

 

The timing cover is a big job, the dealership refuses to do mine(that's a whole other story), but your problem is just the valve cover gasket, which is a pretty simple fix. Mine looks about like yours, and my timing cover is leaking. Since this is a fairly easy fix I doubt they will give you any lip about it. If they don't wanna do it, there is a write up on here that shows how to remove and reinstall the valve covers to paint them.

 

http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48545

 

I believe you might have the labor hours mixed..8hours would be something timing chain replacement would run.. Alldata says replacing both driver and passenger side valve covers would run 2.1 hours labor.

 

My thoughts exactly, pulling valve covers isn't that hard.

 

TSB is not free.
The TSB is simply a notice to the service departments that "If customer complains about "X", we have found that "Y" is likely the cause"

TSB is free under warranty, normal labor applies out of warranty, though the dealer does have some "good will" budget discretion to cover all or part of some repairs.

But 8 hours for a VC gasket? Sounds extreme when I can do a Tundra 4.7 timing belt in 5 hours.

 

mine does the same thing. took it in and they laughed "that's not a leak", whatever. when it bugs me enough I'll just buy a new dumb gasket and throw it in. cost less then the stupid 50$ "Certified used warranty" deductible anyway

 

lets take a minute and soak this in. . . . .

we are able to complain about seepage/ residue. i dont think there is another truck on the planet that has this kind of quality. i smile every time i crawl under my truck or pop the hood no leaks and im pretty sure the only residue i have is from my sloppy ass.

i wouldn't worry OP. if it gets to where it runs, just buy both v/c seals and the intake. . . . good to go

 

just did an alldata flat rate time for both valve cover gaskets on a 4.0l v6(since im a service tech i have access to it). pays 2.1hrs for that repair and to be honest its looks really easy to do on my 11 taco with a v6. try changing them on an older Mitsh. Montero....now thats a pain.

 

+1

Fucked up last oil change and cranked it up with the oil cap off.
I did it intentionally... my cut-off M1 bottle was still screwed into the valve cover, figured it was enough to control the splashing and keep the fan from blowing it all over the place.

I was wrong

 

These are not full aluminum engines. They use different types of metal for rigidity. Haven't you ever heard of aluminum alloy? This is nothing to worry about. So, if the whole engine is made up of "Aluminum" then why would you have a warped head, and then once you check the deck on the short block, there is no sign of light on the other side of the straight edge? Just saying, "If I was the mechanic, I would not do anything about it." I can also promise you the Toyota dealer is going to say the same thing. There is nothing to worry about. You aren't loosing any oil. That looks like nothing other then a little bit of PCV residue. If it was leaking 1. You would clearly see it. 2. You would more then likely have a Lean code setting off the check engine light.

 

I thought I read somewhere they were full aluminum engines. I guess I was wrong, but I myself wouldn't really care about this kind of situation happening to me.

 

A tiny oil leak is not going to give you a lean code on the ECU.

Lean or Rich codes are for too little ( Lean ) or too much ( Rich ) fuel to air ratio.