Valve Cover Gasket Leak?

^^^ Agreed.

 

You do understand that is the valve cover is leaking it MIGHT/may cause a lean code due to the outside air is entering the valve cover due to engine vacuum? Yes, I am fully aware of how stoichiometric efficiency works. The PCV is already a calculated into the ECM to allow the proper 14.7:1 AFR and or +-1. Just saying, I was a GM drivability for YEARS and still do work on the side. I am 100% ASE certified along with all of my GM certs and on top of that, I have my AAS degree in automotive. The GMASEP program will teach you a lot

 

I cut my teeth on International and Detroit Diesel motors. What you have is NOT a leak...

Howard

 

Hit it with some Gunk and a hose. It will be good as new.

 

As stated, clean it up and keep an eye on things.

 

I got the same seepage, same spot. My dad said just to crank the bolt a smidge

 

Had the same problem with my 2010, first dealer denied that it was leaking till I made them change the gasket. Got it back and the only thing that they did was to put some silicon where the leak was then to tell me that they had changed the gasket. Started seeping a month later so took it to another dealer who checked it out and found that the gasket was OK but where the timing cover meets the engine block the factory had not put enough sealant causing the seepage. They also noted that the gasket had not been replaced before ( fraud by the first dealer) and that there was some corrosion on the valve cover mating surface. Has not leaked since.

 

You do understand that the valve cover is under pressure due to crankcase pressure. It is NOT going to introduce additional flow into the intake. Outside air isn't getting into the valve cover; Crankcase pressure is greater than Atmospheric pressure. Even if it did allow air into the valve cover ( which is not possible ) the PCV valve will only allow so much flow... You need some more certifications.

You sir are wrong. Sorry to have to point this out in public, but ...

I have been working on cars since I was 15 years old, I'm nearly 58 now. That is my certification, real world experience.

 

^^wondering at which point air leaked into valvecover would enter and mix with combustion air myself. . . . . funny i've been using that nozzle on the valvecover as a fill point for oil. . . . . didn't know i would end up burning it all in the combustion chamber. surprised i havent thrown any codes. . . . thanks alaskan i better take it in and have them check my ecu. . . . . and tell me wear to fill with oil!

 

What the hell are you talking about?

Crankcase is the area below the pistons. You know where the oil pan etc... I said nothing about the combustion chamber. I think you got confused.

 

lol scarcasm dude. i understood the debate was getting a/f codes based on valve-cover leakage. my point was that if additional air in the v/c made a difference all the way at the o2 sensors then, this is one shitty engine. that air (and hopefully oil) should never ever make it into combustion, therefore never effecting a/f readings in the exhaust

 

Sarcasm meter is broken at the moment.

 

lol yea and typing it never works very well.

i was hoping alaskan would chime in and give me some information on what the oil splashing around in my v/c's might do to my a/f readings. . . (rolls eyes)

 

If that is the case jimmy, then why can you spray a can of brake clean onto a leaking valve cover, watch the RPM's jump, and also watch the O2 sensor go rich? The valve cover is till under vacuum. May not be at a 14 inch of merc. But, it is still a vacuum. I have done this for a while and I have ALL of my certs and occasionally go into the college as a sub in emissions and electrical classes. Sorry to point THIS out in public.

 

" then why can you spray a can of brake clean onto a leaking valve cover, watch the RPM's jump, and also watch the O2 sensor go rich? "

I have done this for an intake or vacuum hose leaks, which could also include a leak on the PCV Hose. Never for a valve cover leak, they are obvious and easy to locate. The PCV Meters the flow anyway.

I do however agree that the intake pulls crankcase gases via the PCV System that is connected to the valve cover. The crankcase is normally under a slight pressure that will vary by the amount of combustion gases blowing by the rings. Remove the oil fill cap and drive it a few miles and get back with me after you get through cleaning up all the oil.

I will also agree if you poked a hole in the valve cover as big as an ink pen it could possible cause a code and Idle Issues as well if the PCV Valve was stuck open. There is no way that a tiny little seepage or even a leak at the gasket is going to cause any type of Lean Code.

You have done it for a while... that is funny. You are 25 years old... I have grease stains on my work clothes older than that.

I'm done.

 

ASE doesn't mean dick, all it means is that you can pass some fucking tests. I trust the guy who has had real life experience under the hood vs. some test jockey anyday, the problem is that ASE certifies anyone and that includes a person who has never been under the hood in their life and call them good to go, that's not how it should be.

Anyways, The maximum allowable lean or rich deviation from stochiometric is +-2 in the state of kalifornia (and you know how anal the smog nazis are here). I have NEVER seen a leaking valve cover gasket, more specifically one that looks like OP's cause codes, driveability issues etc. etc.

 

But he's ASE... that's like graduating from MMI.
Kid spends $20k on book-learning and then tries to tell a 60 y/o biker that everything he knows about Harleys is wrong.

Seriously... when I see ASE, I run.

 

MMI

Run!!!

 

Mine didnt look half that bad and the dealer fixed mine. They said its covered by the 5yr 50k power train warranty and I have 44k on mine. They put a UV dye and tools me to come back after 200 miles. When I came back they ordered the seal and had the job done in about 6 hours. They say it takes that long because they wont even touch the truck for several hours until it cools down. Its not actually a very time consuming job. And yes, it is a TSB

 

You do understand that in order to be ASE certified that you have to have a minimum of 2 years from a reputable shop sign you off and verify.... Right? Also, as far as the stochiometric. Wtf, are you talking about +-2? It is nothing other then how the engine articulates its timing for the injectors and spark on newer vehicles. Mainly seen them on Lexus and GM.


Also, if something is wrong with your Harley, the only thing I'm going to tell you is, "It's a Harley. That's your problem." The only reason why you run away from ASE is because you are afraid someone will show you up? Sorry to tell you this. But, Carburetors are junk, and you are just pissed off because your PCV doesn't dump into the atmosphere anymore.