Choosing a Rear Diff Locker- 2nd gen taco prerunner

Can anyone recommend a good locker (that they are actually using/have installed) for my 2005 Pre-Runner.


I plan on using it to gain better traction for light off road duty, also i dont want it to affect its drivablitiy from stock on the road.

Any help is appreciated!

Oh and if there was already a thread on this please "show me the link".

Thanks in advance.

 

I have the OEM E-Locker but ARB is pretty much the shit...ton's of guys run them. If I didn't have one already I'd go with ARB for sure

 

I'm rocking an ARB in the rear and it is nice. I get lots of good traction with it. When it's off, the driving on the road is the same as stock

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys!

 

ARB for sure. I got the E-locker now aka stock rear locker, but I've heard arb is the shizzz

 

Hey guys I got a question. I bought an 08 tacoma prerunner new. Its not a TRD so I dont have a locking rear diff but I installed some Baja lights and when I put in the switch I noticed the wiring harness has several plugs behind the area where the switch would be. Im assuming this means that all tacomas have a generic wireing harness. Could I buy a locking rear diff that ties into this? If so, all I need is the new diff and a switch right?

 

wolfman. i know someone with a trd or rear locking axle assembly if your interested

 

Im assuming if I bought it then it would be a plug and play. just install the new stuff and im good to go? Im completly ignorant when it comes to the mechanics of a vehicle but im learning. How much and whats the local your in?

 

she is in austin, im letting her know you might b interested. http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/3438888957.html

its a full replacement axle with everything you need except the wiring and switch on the dash.

im not sure but i think you could prolly get an arb locker for the rear and it will fit inside your stock diff but your looking at about $1000 plus install

 

That locker doesn't have any wiring.

 

whats up ryan, you get your steps on?

 

Ok, I just checked it out and am very interested. Only question left is do I need the TRD computer? I thinking I dont. Thats just with the LSD right? I feel like a moron asking these questions but I just dont know.

 

good questions that i dont know, so i will let someone that has the knowledge answer

 

heres our facebook page for texas tacomas

 

Sounds to me like its a closed circut system. Push the button its locked push it again its open. Not much need for computing power right?

 

i think your right, i took mine apart once and the e locker is just an electronically actuated gear that when you push the button, it spins the little gear that slides the fork to engage the locker

 

Preface: This post is not for the gardeners that carry less than 400 pounds in their bed or people that use their truck as a car. This is intended for those that use their truck as a truck and take it off road in places mom's car won't go!

Many folks have had great luck with the e-lockers. Personally, I have not.

I have had about 4 e-lockers ring and pinions ! ARB is more expensive it engages and disengages with ease; anyone that has used an e-locker for more than about a year, and have used it, has inevitably had the condition where it either, won't engage or worse, won't disengage.

If you don't have an e-locker, you are already have the much stronger rear in your truck - the 8.4. The 8.4 doesn't really have a 'stronger ring and pinion,' it has a cast iron truss that greatly reduces the distortion of the housing when under load. What this means to you is that the backlash (gap between the ring and pinion) will theoretically remain constant. Without keeping backlash constant, with heavy use, over time you will damage the ring and pinion.



Other things to consider:
There are two ARBs out there for the 8.4. The first is the RD89. It is a 3 piece design and will no longer be supported by ARB. In other words, if you damage one of the 3 main pieces to the ARB carrier, you will have one of the following:

Click here to see ARB Blog Post on 3 vs 2

1 - A cool paper weight that is sure to be a great conversation starter.
2 - A few spares for when you go out and buy another, obsolete, ARB RD89
3 - A very unique boat anchor that is sure to be the talk of the docks!

The newer design is a 2 piece design and should provide you great service for the life of your truck.

Also, ARB's will from time-to-time require you to replace the o-rings in the actuation mechanism inside of the differential. You will know that you are ready for this when you start to see oil in the actuator line (a little at the diff end of the air line may not be so bad but when you have changed the pneumatic line into a hydraulic line (the air line filled with diff oil and now showing up at your compressor, it may be a good time to replace the o-rings! lol Also, if you ever buy a used ARB, do not install it without getting new and latest design o-rings for the actuator!

You could also, blow out and clean the line, re-install and start to check at what rate the oil is getting past the seals.

Changing the o-rings is not a simple task. The differential needs to be removed from the housing and the carrier removed from the differential to get to the actuator. For most, it would be best just to send it to Chase and company at East Coast Gear Supply. For those that want to do it yourself and you are working on an 8.4, you are somewhat in luck since the 8.4 uses spacers to set the backlash (as opposed to the threaded pre-load dealibobs).

E-lockers are nice since this is not an issue... what is the issue is engagement/disengagement and the cost of a new e-locker motor that engages and disengages the locker.

Also, an ARB will require an air or a regulated compressed gas source. If you spend a bit more money and get a 'high volume' (compared to low volume lol) compressor, you will also have a way to fill your tires in remote places. Don't expect a 30 second 0 psi to 35 psi refill time but at least you will have something. I recently had a challenge in Canyonlands area in UT where I had a 4 inch slice in my sidewall and after putting 50 plugs and strips of my sweetheart's shoe soles, had to air up every 3 minutes for about 12-13 hours. Without this small compressor (used all my CO2), I would still be out on the trail in the form of a half-eaten carcass.



Good luck!

 

For those of you wanting to put e-locker in a non-e-locker truck. You can get aftermarket kits like this one from Inchworm:

http://www.marlincrawler.com/air-electronics/wiring-harness/electric-locker-control-kit

I am not positive, but the harness may already have the wiring and you may only need a switch and the final harness that can be piked up from Marlin or others:

http://www.marlincrawler.com/air-electronics/wiring-harness/electric-locker-wiring-harness

I also have the switch and harness that I could sell to someone.

Edit: IIRC Do NOT put your truck's voltage (12+ vdc) to the locker motor! You will not like the end result! These aftermarket kits have resistors to reduce to the correct voltage. You can also find some DIY harness write-ups on the Interwebs.

 

good point, good point

 

Alternatively if you wanted to keep the (IMO) weak link elocker, and you blew a motor, you could always get the Chilcat solution (I wouldn't do it on anything as heavy as our trucks but it is cool nonetheless).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO-2XVS-RCQ

Here's a homebrew elocker control

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmeE7wQwcdo