Synthetic oil in 2.7L?

synthetic oil can be run longer than conventional for sure... the oil filter should be changed at least every 5k.

 

Say you change your oil every 3500 x 3 changes = 10,500 (with dyno oil). Or, you go every 5000 x 2 changes = 10,000 (with syn. oil).

5 qt Quality dyno oil 16.62 x 3 = 49.86. Quality filter 6.00 x 3 = 18.00. So, to do dyno oil changes @3500 it would cost you $67.86 every 10,500 miles.

5 qt Quality Syn oil 26.62 x 2 = 53.24. Quality filter 6.00 x 2 = 12.00.
So, to do syn oil changes @5000 it would cost you $65.24 every 10,000 miles.

I have been an old school guy who changes oil every 3000 -3500 or so with dyno oil, so I always felt I had ample protection since the oil would not break down typically during this time frame. But when I went to wal mart last, I looked at oil prices and determined, as you can see, if I follow the factory 5000 mile interval schedule and use syn oil, it would be cheaper to run full syn oil!
Finally, an old dog may have learned a new trick. I am going full syn next oil change. And, since I am at 30K, after changing out the tranny and rear diff oils to full syn, I may improve gas mileage a bit with the whole truck running syn oils.

 

I'm now running Mobile 1, advertised to be good for 15k. It's about twice as much, but should run three times as long as non synth. And time saved on oil changes, especially in the winter when I don't feel like it. Worth it to me.

 

I have a 2011 Tacoma 2.7 liter 4 cylinder 4X4 and it specifies 0W-20. Mobil-1 is the only oil I have found in that weight.
Before purchasing the 2011 I drove a 1996 Tacoma 2.7 liter 4 cylinder 4X4. I used conventional 10W-30 oil, serviced it regularly and sold it with 402614 miles on it.

 

Very impressive!

 

Someone bought a car with 403,000 miles on it?

 

Is the change in spec relevant only to certain model years? More info here please.

 

The 0-20 synthetic spec started with the '11 model year.

 

Is synthetic oil better than conventional oil? I don't believe there is an argument over that point. Here are some items to consider. Oils are comprised of two primary components: a lubricity component (the lubricating feature) and additives (the component that deals with impurities that accumulate in the oil). Oils that have longer oil change intervals or are high mileage oils have a larger component of additives. Oil filters do not filter out all of the impurities. If they did you would never have to change the oil in your vehicle. You would only change the oil filter and replace the lost oil. Whether you use synthetic oil or conventional oil there is a point where impurity accumulation in your oil dictates you need to change it. The more expensive oils usually have more additives to deal with the impurities.
The reason I was able to get 402614 miles on 1996 Tacoma I always change the oil before the impurity accumulation was too high.
As for the question did someone buy the truck from me. I did not think there would be any interest in a vehicle with that high of mileage. I advertised it on Craigslist, got swamped with responses and someone paid cash for it and it sold within two hours.

 

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5w20 Castrol Edge full synthetic.....if you watch the papers even if you dont need the oil and filter right then, alot of places (autozone,advance,pepboys, etc.) run sales for 5 quarts of synth and a fram or k and n filter in the 30-35 dollar range.even needing to buy the additional 6th quart for our trucks thats cheaper than dino oil and better for the motor.i run fram tough guard filters and ran mobil 1 the first couple changes, then switched to the castrol full synth.i like the castrol better for its wear prevention additives and john force runs it!winning!lol.truck has 35k miles on it so far and i take her to 4,500-5k rpm on a daily merging onto the highway and whatnot

 

Tales from the days of old....you can switch back. Some folks argue this....why do the company's make semi-synthetic then?. You can switch back and forth if you wish. Folks get synthetic oil mixed up with teflon additives and the like......synthetic motor oil is not "more slick",synthetic motor oil has better flow characteristics than dino motor oil's. If you owner's manual says not to use synthetic,then, don't use it....otherwise.

 

I think sythetic works best in the transmission. You dont change it that often if ever so I would put in the best you can.

 

I switched to Amsoil 5W30 and a Purolator Gold Filter #20195 five years ago, I noticed my engine reving to 2200 rpm on starting with 'Dino oil'. It's common knowledge that the most wear comes at start up. One solution is to get a 'engine pre lube kit', I wasn't too keen about what I found and deceided to try full synthetic oil. The rpm on cold start is now 18-1900. I lucked out on the brand I chose, it was on sale and has turned out to be an excellent choice. I've had the used oil tested at 8,000 and 15,000 miles with no contamination (from gasoline, coolant or any metals) I'm going 15,000 between changes with a filter change at 7,500 miles. Amsoil makes a 7,500, 25,000 and 35,000 mile oils (between changes). I listen to a Saturday morning auto repair show on am radio and they say Redline, Royal Purple and Amsoil are all ester based oils. Some guys on this site and some other Toyota enthusiast sites like Mobile 1 and their oil filter. I'd stay away from any 'synthetic blends'- why? Because there are no standards of how much synthetic oil (a teaspoon or ??) and the quality of the base stock are huge unknowns. Testing is inexpensive and how else will you know how well the oil (and more importantly) and the engine are holding up? The choice is yours, do your homework, use a quality oil filter, keep the air filter changed and get at least one used oil test. You can easily go 7,000 or more miles with a quality synthetic. I'm just sharing my experience with you, I'm not an Amsoil dealer-good luck on your choice. The oil change places and the dealerships can't upsell you if you don't come in every 4,000 miles.

 

My 2010 spec is 0w-20 for synthetic

 

Just an fyi the dealer synthetic is mobil 1 and I can get it cheaper at the dealer then at my local auto parts store its worth it to check. The red oil filter is the tits too!

 

TRD not red damn auto correct

 

Oil cap on my '08 says 5w20 or 0w20
0w20 is only available in synthetic.

 

Correct if you use synthetic in it then it better be 0-20

 

Any weight from 0w20 to 5w30 is acceptable depending on usage and primary ambient temperatures, depending on the year.
For my 2005, 2006, and interestingly, 2010, it is acceptable to run 5w30 in the 2.7. The 4.0 requires 5w30 or 5w20 up to 2010. 2010-2012, 0w20 is also acceptable.


There is no "better be" about any weight and synthetic.
Synthetic ALLOWS alternative weights to be used, such as 0w20, or for Diesel trucks, 5w40, where conventional oil mandates 5w20 or 15w40 because of the viscosity improvers required would result in an oil that could not hold up for 5000 miles.
But if you run synthetic, you can run 0w20, 5w20, or if your spec allows for it, 5w30.