Electronics Basics and Reference

Good idea, I'm actually wiring a project right now all using the same wire color...it does get confusing. I typically use some misconstrude tape or zip tie marker, but I like your approach better...much more robust and identifiable by others too. Thanks!

 

Wait till your working on something and a bunch of wires falls off. No numbers your doomed. Guessing how to reattach them could be fatal on some equipment. So you spend the next three weeks tracing them all out with a meter. Been there done that too many times to mention. After you knock all the wires off you find out there is no print for that piece of equipment. Or this is a famous trick to. You open up some box that has been closed for thirty years. It's got a thousand wires inside but bonus there all marked. You touch a single wire and all the numbers fall off all the wires. No clear over top. Or the labels are just black cause they have thirty years of dirt on them. Somebody did all that work and you can't read them anyway.

Now my rule of thumb is I simply refuse to work on things till the wires are marked. I always have my handy marker with me and several packages of numbers. If I have to work on it the first thing I'll do is spend some time marking the wires before anything gets disconnected. When I build equipment I use the clear heat shrink over top. I actually have two different wire label machines, one prints on heat shrink, one makes more permanent high temp plastic labels. I still put clear over top. Equipment needs to be cleaned and if you don't put something over top the labels will disappear over time.

 

thanks very much for this write-up! i have a general knowledge of electronics (just enough to get myself in trouble! ), but after reading through this, i'm feeling much better about my upcoming fog light install!

really appreciate the time and effort in putting this together!

 

I inserted a part on batteries and alternators in the original post to help out with starting problems.

 

The voltage output of an alternator is only slightly related to engine speed. It is much more strongly related to the field current, which is supplied by the voltage regulator.

At very low RPM, the alternator may not be able to put out enough voltage even at maximum field current. Think older cars with headlamps that dim at idle. At higher RPM the voltage will be completely controlled by the field current responding to load induced voltage drop. Once you reach the maximum current capacity of the alternator, the voltage will drop no matter what.

 

I have two questions...
Can an ATM Add-a-Line work in an ATM LB fuse block? Trying to install a CB in my 2010 TRD Sport DC and can't find the low profile ATM add-a-lines...
Second question grounding: two parts:
What is easiest ground to get to from under the center console?
I plan to run antenna coax dow through grommet under drivers sead...down fram and up between the cab and bed to an antenna mount I fabricated that will ride the back bed rail...what's the easiest/closest ground to get to from there (either inside the bed or under the truck)?
Thanks guys...

 

I keep burning out headlights and corner marker lamps. Is 13.8 volts too hight of an output for these lamps?

 

No, 13.8 should be fine for them.

 

I'm not familar w/ the ATM's you're referring to, but an ATM fuse will fit in an ATM socket whether it's inline or a fuse block.

Not sure what is the easiest ground under console. There are a couple good ones near the stereo/climate controls. Probably some underneat the seat, but be careful because there are airbag connectors under there...try taking a look at the factory wiring diagrams (search the forum). As for between bed and cab...I'd have to take a look, but there's likely a mounting bolt of some sort that you could try. Maybe running a wire down to the chassis would work well, there are typically ground studs on the chassis.

This shouldn't be a problem, standard battery voltage is easily 13.8 volts. If you're running hotter burning bulbs (i.e. silver stars) then they will burn out faster. A loose ground or high drawing device (e.g. winch or stereo) may be overloading the battery resulting in high current draws. Dirty connectors can cause this too, try using some dielectric grease on the connectors to ensure a good connection, just be sure to clean any corrossion first. Also, be sure not to touch the headlight bulbs before you install them, clean fingers have enough natural oil to compromise a bulb and shorten its life.

 

Thanks Larry...I ended up running power off the battery and grounded the radio to the base of thet shifter on the center console...Worked well clean sound - no interferance...

 

I traded in my Taco so I'm no longer actively monitoring or updating this thread. Hopefully it was, and continues to be, useful. Good luck everyone...

 

Can anyone tell me where the fuse is to my gage cluster lights. The dash spedometer does not come on.Nor does my TRD boost gage.

 

question?thinking of trying to put a cig plug up where garage door holder is (2008) taco,would like to plug gps in here so not having wires hanging all over,if put on windshield this could reduce wire length,is there any power besides lites up there,could an outlet be possible up here?

 

i have nothing but problems with my wiring my friend said all toyotas have vary poor wiring is this true he said there only good for there engines other then that there just crappy rust buckets should i sell my truck fast lol

 

Sub'd

 

The wires up there are pretty small. But you could always run one up there pretty easily behind the A-pillar cover. You can take the A-Pillar cover off by removing the handle (two bolts under the flaps). Remove the overhead console and you can probably fish a wire through to where the A-pillar meets the roof.

 

Rather than crimps, I prefer posilock connectors. They're much easier to use, much more secure and you can re-use them.

http://www.posi-lock.com/

You can sometimes find them in Walmart where the crimps are.

 

I have a general question. I plan to add 8-10 circuits. Is it logical to add another fuse box. I want everything to look stock.

 

Sounds like a lot of circuits. I'm no electrician but I would say yes.

 

Is there any aftermarket fuse boxes that anyone can recommend or should I just order another fuse box from toyota and install that. I plan to keep all my mods desperate from the factory wiring as to not screw anything up. I realize I will have to tie into some points(ignition circuit) but I want to keep it minimal.