Anyone have problems with their 5300 Pop 'N' Lock - doesn't open

I purchased my Pop N Lock 5300 in a Group Buy in April 2009.

Over the past 2 years, the lock has gotten harder and harder to open. And now, it won't release the left-side latch. I did upgrade the spring when it came out but that didn't help much. Anyway, I just had to revert back to stock until I can find a solution.

Have they improved the build quality in later generations of product?

Anyone else have a problem where it doesn't pull the rod far enough to release the lever? I was forced to remove my tailgate cover with it still up so I could open the damn thing.

Last question....where can I buy the little plastic things that hold the rods in place? I broke the black one and had to redneck-repair it.

 

For what it's worth...I contacted P&L and customer service got back to me and said they forwarded my message to their technical support department to try and resolve the issue.

No one is likely interested in my problem but I'll post updates and hope that it helps someone along the way.

 

Is this a keyed one, or the powered one?

 

5300 is the keyed one.

 

Once again, there are two versions of the Pop & Lock - the electronic (remote keyless entry system) version (

$104 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521) and the manual (keyed) version (PL5300).

While both versions work with the backup camera, they install and work quite differently. The electronic version uses the existing tailgate handle, without messing with the camera. The manual version replaces the existing tailgate handle, with the backup camera moved to that new handle.

 

I just installed the PnL on my 2011 last weekend.

Manual PnL
Back up camera.

To the OP, the only thing I could figure is that something is blocking the function of the side that won't unlatch that isn't related to the PnL.


If you look at it before putting the tailgate cover back on, and watch it operate, you can see where the disconnect is right away (on in this case, the stay-connect, since it isn't pulling one side.)

Those long connectors are weak. So if anything is interfering with them, they just bend around it and fail to move the latch.

Camera cable. Mud. Mulch. Small Rocks. Etc. (just saying what was in my tailgate when I took it apart.)

 

I have no experience with the manual (keyed) version (PL5300) of the Pop & Lock, so take this for what it is (pure speculation).

Have you tried to oil or grease the mechanism itself? This often works wonders with moving parts. Take the lock apart, clean off the old oil or grease, and put it back together with a fresh lubricant. Remember you want the mechanism to move, so obviously don't use a thick, heavy, oil or grease.

Is there a way to adjust the arm(s) of the lock mechanism? If not, you could always bend arms which need to be shorter or fabricate longer arms.

I just don't know enough to provide anything further, so will just shut up at this point. Regardless, sorry to hear about your problem and good luck at finding a solution.

 

I have the keyed version and bought it before the powered one was even out. It had the alternate camera mount - which moves the camera to the other side of the handle.

I knew there was a powered one but was not aware it used the existing handle. That's interesting. Does it give you an extra key fob to control the lock or does it integrate with the power locks?

Thanks Trot. I thought about filming it but didn't and now everything is back together again. Not hard to dismantle but I'm busy the next few days. I will next week though.

There is nothing interfering and I lubed everything very well before uninstalling last night. It seems the black part that moves the 3-way 'actuator' (the metal pictured above) does not move it enough to disengage the 'red' rod (controls the left release).

The "black part" that moves the actuator seems to have a bit of flex in it. I think it's plastic.

Regardless, my handle NEVER felt like the OEM handle. I have to pull up sooo hard, I always fear that I will break something. It only releases once I reach the end of it's travel-ability - when the actual handle is almost horizontal. The OEM handle releases in the first few inch or so of movement.

 

I had my PL5300 on my '09 for about 6 month until I couldn't get my tail gate to unlock. Finally I got it unlocked and open. I then proceeded to try and fix the P&L; I oiled, I lubed, I used graphite in the key mechanism......NOTHING worked. So I reverted back to stock. I'm looking to get the powered

$104 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521 for my '12

 

Nope, the

$104 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521 works with the existing Toyota key fobs. The instructions describe how to connect the lock's wiring to the drivers door wiring (one press of the key fob opens the driver's door and tailgate lock), but many (myself included) connect it to the passenger side to maintain consistency - one press of the key fob to open only the driver's door, two presses to open all other locks (the three passenger doors, tailgate, etc). Look around the forum. There are many threads describing exactly how to do it (very easy).

 

Considering I might be getting the P&L this weekend installed now maybe I might go to the power lock instead of the manual and suck up the extra amount of money of having the power one installed.

 

I've read other reviews from members that say their 5300 works and feels exactly like stock.

My lock came from one of the very first 5300 ever produced - backup camera was new that year. The buy was delayed a bit because they were still trying perfect the camera mount. Anyway, I assume slight tweaks were made over the past 2 years and product is probably much better now.

They also didn't have powered locks at that time. With the way stewartx describes they work, I would be more interested in going that route. I've always feared losing the manual key.

The only downside to a power lock for me...
When I go snowboarding, I hide my keys in the bed box with my tonneau cover down. When I get back to the truck, I drop the gate, get my keys and unlock the truck.

 

The way the wiring is done, it looks like they somehow tap into the alarm or power locks already into the car. I want to do the power one so badly, BUT being I have a brand new truck and a warranty covering everything under the sun on the truck I always have that fear that it'll void it or ruin some part of it....

 

^^ The installation of the power version only requires tapping into two (minor function) wires, which does no violate the terms of any warranty - any more than installing a CB radio (which has been done for decades) or similar. The two wires you need to tap into are easily located behind the the side kick panels (where the driver's or passenger's feet rest) on either side of the truck. You only need to access one of those side panels (whichever one you want to use - see install option descriptions in the many threads here).

The entire installation shouldn't take much more than about 2 to 4 hours, perhaps a bit longer if you progress slowly. I'm getting older (harder to climb in & out under a vehicle), so I moved slowly and took plenty of breaks (sitting, talking, listening to music, etc). Even still, it only took about 5-hours (most of that time BS's instead of working).

And, yes, you tap into the wiring for the existing door locks. The one on the driver's side unlocks with only a single press of the key fob, while the door on the passenger side unlocks with two presses of the key fob. I prefer my tailgate to unlock with the passenger side door lock (two presses of the key fob), so that's the side I tapped into. The color and location of the wires are exactly identical on both sides of the truck.

Read the many threads describing how to install the power lock. Most do a very good job of describing the process. Print off the descriptions to have with you during the install. With that, it's darn near impossible to make a mistake.

 

I've had the 5300 since March and it still feels tight. I use it 3-4 times/week and never had an issue (knock on wood).

 

As much as I'd love to work on this all myself, I am no where near mechanically inclined to do it and my friend who used to work on my truck isn't around much anymore. So it'll have to be professionally installed. I didn't realize that they tap into either side and with the key fob it'll be different like you mentioned where you have to tap into the system. Very good to know when I have some money to save up for it.

 

Good to know...I wanted to see how everyone likes it before I really take a jump into spending the money on it. Yes I know it's my truck and I can do what I want, it just gives me a piece of mind that others use it and there's good reviews.

 

Am I the only guy that thinks that the Tacoma should come with a locking tailgate, and that Toyota was being stingy with the accessories(lack of a locking glove box is another pet peeve of mine...).

 

Love my power tail gate lock

 

X2. Should be standard equipment, and it is on most of the other major brands.