Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

A built 60 will run more in the 2-3k range. Which axle shafts is he running?

 

Not true. Chevy knuckle break just about as much as Ford. They have slightly more beef, but much stronger? No. BJ knuckles dont have a weak knuckle, just weak ball joints that break, and unless you wanna fork out a ton on specialty BJ's, it will never be as strong as a KP.

^^^Truth. If you swap knuckles, you have to swap everything from the knuckle out. But, this also makes it easier and cheaper to run 35 spline outers.

I have seen some people ask that much, but I looked for one week and found 4 local to me for less than $700, and bought the one I did. Keep searching and you can get them cheap. And $450 wont get you anywhere on upgrades. Figure at least $1500 for gears, locker, new kingpins, bearings, seals, high-steer, and that doesnt include knuckles or 35 spline stuff.

While 14b are super strong the clearance sucks. They are marginally stronger than a 35 spline 60 with chromos, and the 60 has alot better clearance, even over a shaved 14 bolt.

Jon,

As for the knuckles, just plate them out and you will be fine. Just make sure you watch your pre/post heat so they dont end up weaker than when you started. Here is the set I just did:

 

44"s are the plan go big or take the bypass.

^^^^^^ didnt need to hear that to plan on an atles, sure they are expensive but worth it in the long run. im think at that point it moves my weak spot to the hubs and the rear shafts if not the drive lines.

 

True. I'm sure Chevy knuckles break but they aren't more known for cracking than Ford knuckles.

You also don't live in CA $450 will make a nice dent in the cost for Reid knuckles, which is what we are discussing You'll spend the same amount regearing a D44, putting new ball joints in a D44, finding hi-steer arms, milling knuckles, getting all new bearings, putting a locker in...

You're talking about semi-float 60's right? Because NO full float D60 rear came with 35 spline axles from the factory and isn't simple to swap to 35 spline either.

 

Full float. And there ARE rare 35 spline full-floats out there. D70's were 35 spline, but there are D60 that were 35 spline as well, although uncommon. Seems dana put whatever they had lying around together to meet orders back in the day.

Besides this, there are also alot of D60's with D70 spindles which dont require boring out to run 35 spline shafts.

I am in the process of converting a FF 60 to 35 spline right now, new carrier (ARB ) , new shafts, and bore the spindles with a holesaw or have a shop bore them.

 

Yeah but the difference in cost is crazy, why would you dump thousands into a rear 60 and only be as strong as a 14 bolt? Granted ground clearance and weight are good arguments but when you can build a 14 bolt for cheap and it be stupid strong, I see no reason to dump money into a 60. ESP when you could put that money in susp or tcase.

 

Thousands? Gimme a break.

The axle can be had for the same price as a 14bolt. Spindle boring is $60-100 at a shop or $35 DIY. Youre gonna buy the locker either way you go...and D60 35 spline chromos are $500. I fail to see thousands into a rear 60. I see an additional $500-600 tops.

 

well my 14B 3 bearing pinion fell into my lap for free and did the rear 60 so i figure ill shave the 14B and just run the big heavy stupid strong axle instead of the 60 due to the fact that im gonna run 44" tires clearance doesnt mean dick at that point now those people staying at 37-38 well run the 60 for clearance

 

Good for you. I would run the free axle too. I am just trying to make sure there is good information here not "it cost thousands to build a rear 60"

And I will still take the clearance when running 40's, can never have too much ground clearance. Plus I got a swinging deal on my 60 with discs and gears already installed

Clearance is all that matters, same clearance on 40's/D60 vs 44's/14b means alot less driveline stress as well. The 14b is a stronger axle though.

 

I got both my 60 rear and my 14B for free im gonna run the 14B because i want a cheap and strong rear end. Im not sure but i was told if you shave the 14B you are only and inch lower than the 60 and still stronger. and clearance does matter this is true. Im a fabber and a master auto tech so DIY always saves me money, and a 44 rolls over rocks alot easier than a 40 does so yeah clearance is good but not all that matters or if thats the case y do rock buggies sit so low? Lastly i agree good info is a must.

 

diff clearance. They sit low for C.O.G.

 

Any ideas on how to post these videos up? I don't have a laptop so limited to my iPhone.

 

My bad kinda over exaggerated. I'm a 14 bolt fan if ya couldn't tell.

 

I'm honestly not to sure what all was done to his front axle (was deployed when he built it) however ill find out today and get back at you. Anything specific you wanted to know?

 

Personally I'd rather keep everything toyota but going with a 44 or 60 each have there own perks. That argument could go for days!

 

everyone one picks what they do to fit them im chasing streanth. Last round i did the 100% toy was nice.

 

this was my last round.

 

I second gens werent so damn big and heavy now I would have preferred to stay all Toy myself too. But damn this back seat...and the 4.0

 

Well hello pretty lady!!! What engine were you running? Yeah if you want strength go for the 60. Or you could just go all out and get some rockwells lol.

 

Did you solid axle your second gen?