How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Thanks for such a great write up Chris, they don't get any better then that!

Not sure if this was mentioned as I didn't have the time to go through so may posts, but for the tool list I would like to add a piece of rubber hose for those of us who don't own a real spark plug socket and have a deep well socket instead.
The hose goes over the end of the spark plug after loosening to lift it out of the hole. And you use it to start the new plug in the hole, the hose gives you a much better feel that you are correctly threading the plug then a socket on a long extension would.

 

Shouldn't have to. You can spray carb cleaner on it once running and assembled to see if it's leaking though. If you want. Just use sense.

 

Changed my plugs for the first time today at 30K and found Denso's on the passanger side of the truck and NGK's on the driver side. I have owned this truck since it had 5 miles on it and as far as I know the dealer has never touched them.

 

Nice, nice write up...I did the first change on my '11 access cab, v6, 6 speed in 90 minutes. My ONE piece of advice is to get the BEST spark plug socket you can find. I happen to have a BMW special socket with a long tail that works well. If not, you can waste time fishing the socket out of the hole.

Oh, 90 minutes to change all six to include sweeping out the bay before hand. I put in Bosch Platinum FR 7 NPP30 X at around $3/each at the FLAP.

Howard

 

Where do you put the anti-seize and where can you buy it?

 

Around the threaded part and any autoparts store has it. You should buy the tube though. Not the little packet so you have enough.

 

Just did them today and it was a very tight space and sucked.It is not hard to do at all just take patience.

 

I tend to buy the 1 pound can...put a small amount on the threads of the sparkplug, it prevents galling of the steel spark plug threads and the aluminum cylinder head. Also a tube of dielectric grease on the top of the spark plug makes the coil on a stick fit better and aids in the release from the rubber gripper of the spark plug socket.

The fit is tight, but on the whole, easier than our 97 pathfinder. Plugs and wires are in stock for the jeep also...

Howard

 

Just a quick question. When using the round spark plug gap tool, do you take the leading edge to the gap you want, or the middle? I would assume the edge. I dont normally use this kind, but the one I have had and have seen every other day for a year and a half suddenly vanished, so I went and bought one of these from orielly's.

The passenger side is a breeze. I'm about to start on the drivers side now. We'll see how that goes....

Well, the drivers side was not too bad. The front plug was a booger to get off and on. I think I may have taken off a few more things than the original write up did, just to make it easier. It probably took me 90-100 minutes with quite a bit of time looking for tools and a trip to the parts store. all in all, not bad.

 

Well, thanks to this thread, I decided to change the spark plugs on my 2006 Tacoma myself.

Well, actually, it's what they charged me the last time I had them done, which is too embarrassing to post.

Anyway, it took me 2 hrs, but that was with taking my sweet time.

I didn't have to remove as many parts as in the OP demo, but I have small hands so I got away with it.

I haven't changed plugs on a truck for at least 15 years, mostly because the hours I worked, made it more conducive to hire some one else to do it.

Now that I'm retired, I plan on doing more of my own vehicle maintenance.

Thanks again to the OP.

Jim

 

Ohhhh yeah..thumbs up from Canada.

 

But by changing it now, maybe you save gas, better performance as a result.

 

I just changed mine at 95k miles. They were gapped out to .68 or so. Came out easy. Only had one stick a little, but it came out with no trouble once it broke loose. I'm still on the first tank of gas after the change, but it's on course to be about the same mileage as I was getting. There MIGHT be a slightly noticable increase in performance, but not enough to be able to say for sure. I didnt put any anti seize on the plugs, but I will change them out at 100k anyway since I am going to seafom my truck right before I change the oil. Plugs were cheaper than changing the oil early. Just wanted to get them done to see if there would be better mileage instead of waiting longer.

 

So true.

Ended up planting a garden this year, first time in 28 years.

It was just a small 4'x12', but I got so many tomatoes and cucumbers, I gave a bunch away, ate plenty in salads and such, and made two large pots of tomato sauce.

Next year, I plan to double it.

Also, painted my house.

Semper Fi Back at cha!

BTW, when and where did you serve? Myself 1970, Okinawa and Quantico VA

Jim

 

JimROCDS & JCruiser,
Thank you for your service.

 

Sub'd

 

Where did you guys find a torque wrench that does 15ft/lbs. the lowest I can find is 20ft/lbs. would 20 crush the gasket?

 

Craftsman has some decent 3/8" drive torque wrenches in that range of in/lbs...12in/lbs = 1 ft/lb, so 15 ft/lbs is 12*15 in/lbs or 180 in/lbs. Torque wrenches are more accurate in the higher ranges.

On a different note, I just ordered a new spark plug socket and LOCKING extensions for taco spark plug changes, here is the text of the order along with a new METAL drain pan. The plastic ones tend to soften under hot oil. As usual YMMV

vendor is www.tooltopia.com

KTI22219 is an extended length socket

KD 81202 is the locking extension set, all in 3/8" drive...


K-Tool International (KTI22219) KTI222191 $9.28

Plews/Lubrimatic (PLW75-751) PLW75-7511 $5.62

GearWrench (KD 81202) KD 812021 $20.99

 

Looks like you know where to get your tools bro.....thanks for sharing....Nice sites.