Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Wow.... That sucks.

There are a bunch of good pictures of Dans 1st gen dble cab. It's my favorite. I like it more than mine.

 

That happens quite a bit when you have an ARB in the front of the IFS trucks and you get bound up with the wheels turned. Thats why I tell people to turn it on and turn it off as soon as you can if you have a rear locker. Or if you have a twin stick you can shift from 4wd to 2wd while the front is still locked and shift back while on the fly.

 

not what i wanted to hear.. but thanks for the advice i kinda figured part of the failure is due to the design of the arb its self. we where snow wheeling and that shit happened trying to clib a rock ledge. finnished the trail out 3 wheel drive.

 

Throwing around the idea of 3 linking my truck now instead of leaf springs $1000 for coilovers, $300 for rod ends, $400 more in material maybe. Damn! Maybe leafs are the way to go for now...

 

more money longer wait but worth it. Just like waiting for some 17 year old peice of ass to turn 18 sure you want it and shes gonna work better but you gotta wait.

 

It's not the design of the arb that did it. It's the fact that you have the front locked at all that did. Any true locker would have caused that damage. But then again the arb locker is stronger than hell. Locking the front ifs is a delicate situation because the front diff and components is just not that strong. Through in a rock ledge and the skinny pedal and things like that will happen. Put a crawler in there and you can save those parts by using control instead of HP.

 

Trust me no large amount of skinny pedal was used on this ledge the supercharger lays down power for sure but i can smoothly apply touqe with an auto trans. the reason i think it's partly due to the design of the arb is the arb uses less spline contact area than a factory spider gear.

 

Danggg....... Looking at the pic, I think you're right. Makes me worry a bit...

Maybe so... but 44s with 5.38s will be comparable to 35s and 4.30s...... Not counting the fact that the 44s will have a lot more rotational mass and your truck will be a lot heavier. That's why I think it'll be a bit too high. Like I said before, shoundn't matter too much off-road since you'll have the Atlas. It's just that it's not going to have a whole lot of grunt on the street.

Strictly by numbers, you would need 6.17s to get back to the stock ratio.

DOOOO EEET! It is $$$ tho... lots... and lots......

 

yeah thats y i was only gonna wheel the 44's and town drive on 37's if i end up doing alot of town driving in the truck.

 

I'm running 5.38's in my diffs on 40's and 41's. Does very nice with the 5 speed auto tranny that these newer Taco's have.

 

Hey awsumdc, did you use a relay for your light that are hooked up to your rocker switch?

 

Yes I did. I use relays on everything I hook up. It's just cheap insurance. I even used relays for my in cab winch controls.

 

yeah shouldnt be a big deal just takes a little more grunt to get up and go. but im so set on that gearing and 44's is what i wanna run but most likely ill end up with the MTR 42/14.5R17. Eventually after all is tested and well ill buy a set of 44" boggers and cut out the little claw for playing in the sand or snow (only in the dessert) and for any show i its gonna end up in.

 

You can really see how the splines were twisted in that picture. Looks like that may have been happening over time and finally twisted off on that ledge you were on. But then again, I rather have that break than to have my carrier breaking. Much cheaper that way.

When I went to Australia, I got to see the factory at ARB and their test facility. What they put those lockers through to test them was amazing. I saw one locker break a 21/2" axle shaft. I was in awe.

 

so really quick guys has anyone heard of a better ADD shaft (the one i broke) or should i consider cryo?? the axle should be the weak link and thats where i want my damn weak link. stupid IFS anyways. so want my 60 under the truck right meow.

 

im gonna run aftermarket shafts on that side from now on and factory shafts on the drives side so i can kinda put a week link in the safest spot if that makes any sence. Feels wrong talking IFS tech here.

 

I couldn't find any of the 40+ MTR's and thats why I went with the Irok radials. I had an oder in for 6 months and got tired of waiting. I even called Goodyear corp twice with no luck.

 

I hate IFS & all the "pussy parts" as i call them. No real strong points to any of it IMO

 

Ok sweet deal. I'm kinda new with the 5 pin switches. Do I run 2 grounds, 1 wire to the parking lights (so the bottom light is illuminated), 1 hot, and then 1 going back to the relay?

 

id take offence to that but i agree. it's just the stage the truck is at waiting on better bigger parts. i still don't under stand these people that wanna do LT