How to Install a Viper 5704 Alarm/ Remote Start

you can also use directed bypass module model XK05 or Dball . base on my experienced i preferted XK05 (http://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCom...ar=2008&make=Toyota&model=Tacoma&ps=1&s=0&c=0 )

you can buy it from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-XK05-To...=US_Car_Keys_Transponders&hash=item3a7b09b934

Viper 5704 you can also buy it from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/261090529258?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

you need to flash the bypass module with up to date firmware in other for the viper to communicate with tacoma. to flash (go to expresskit.com look for your truck year and model and choose the firmware) new firmware for the XK05 bypass you need the Xloader you can get it from ebay . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Directed-DE...=US_Car_Keys_Transponders&hash=item4d03eb1cb5

you need a ignition relay to boot up the second starter signal current from the viper to the second starter wires in the ignition switch of the tacoma. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Relay/_/N-9cj6w?itemIdentifier=175364_0_0_

 

Not true.

Regular cab, 5-lug, base models do not all have a chipped key.
The only way to know is to look on the dash for the immobilizer symbol on the display under the radio.

The extra 20a fuse does nothing. If anything, it should be 5a or lower... 20a could potentially allow damage to the Viper's output
You could simply run the 20a to pin 87 and then jumper 87 to 86... or preferably, a 5a fuse between 87 and 86.

I have a big problem with this.
It might work... for a time, but it will not hold up.
Corrosion will cause issues down the road, and resistance in the joint from corrosion can lead to heat and fire.
The Western Union connection itself is sound, but it should be soldered... not simply twisted together and taped up.


Other than these two issues, that's a very good writeup!
Thanks for posting!

 

Can you explain this with a bit more detail, I am confused. :/

Thanks!

Also: Thanks times 10000000 for those pictures! Thats great. I would appreciate a link to that forum post. That is a 2009 or newer Tacoma, correct? The wires are all matching up with this sheet I have here.

 

So I don't know anything about relays and I tried to learn but I am pretty confused. I guess all I really have to do is wire it properly and thats what matters. This is probably wrong but I am trying to visualize what you said. Please let me know.

 

That'll work beautifully.

 

Good to know. Thanks. I'll edit that part of the post for future readers. I was was told all vehicles with a dot on the key have a chip. Do you know if the regular cab, 5-lug, base models without an immobilizer have a dot on their key?

Very good to know! I'll update the original post and picture.

UPDATED 4/04/2013: FOR ANYONE READING THIS, I'VE CONSULTED AN INSTALLER ON THE WIRING OF THE RELAY. THE WAY HE SUGGESTED IS NOW IN THE ORIGINAL POST. THIS WAY ONLY USES ONE 20 AMP FUSE LIKE RICH SUGGESTED, BUT ALSO 1 DIODE. THIS IS THE SAME WAY USER RUBBERDUCKY HAD VERIFIED IN POST#34.

I went back and forth on soldering or twisting because a lot of guys were saying soldering is definitely better, but a bad soldering job can be worse than twisting. I started out soldering, but when I saw my soldering skills were poor I switched to twisting thinking that my twisting skills will yield a better result than my soldering skills. But now I think I'll practice soldering for a bit and then go in and solder all of my connections. Seems kind of like a hassle, but much less of a hassle than a fire.

Thanks for your feedback and knowledge!

 

when installing remote starter, on some vehicles needed a second starter wires from the remote starter brain to connected to the vehicle's second starter wire in other for the vehicle to be remote start. in this case our Tacoma required this second starter wires to be connect.

to do this you needed a ignition relay which you can purchase from any auto part store (autozone 8.99 vs advance 15.99). http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Relay/_/N-9cj6w?itemIdentifier=953551_0_0_

you connecting (OK to use Y connecting type) a live (constants) 12 volts to pin 87 and pin 86, connect second starter signal wire from the ViPER to pin 85, connect pin 30 on the ignition relay to second starter wire on to the TACOMA's ignition switch under power steerling collum.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okA56jJcOSk&feature=youtu.be
i hope it help . any question pm me.

 

I don't know about worse, but there are some pitfalls.

One is improper flux - Acid flux is for plumbing. It will destroy copper wire within weeks. I don't even like using it for plumbing, but it does have it's uses.

Biggest problem is lack of sufficient heat, and making sure the conductors are clean.
A 25w iron is generally not sufficient, especially if you are working outdoors, in a cold garage, or there is air moving. I had a 25w iron that could not solder the pickup leads on an electric guitar because I was working on a table under a ceiling fan that was on "low".

Cleanliness is next to Godliness. A dirty iron will not transfer heat. Dirty conductors will not accept heat. Even if you just stripped the conductors, their surfaces must be bright and shiny. If they are at all dark, they have a layer of corrosion that needs to be sanded off.

Heat the joint, then TAP the solder to the iron tip. Get that bit of solder in contact with the wire... the solder and flux will transfer the heat into the wire, and allow for everything to flow.
Once the heat transfer is established, touch the solder to the joint itself, not the iron. The wire needs to heat the solder, not the iron. You can pour hot solder onto a joint all day and it will simply result in a cold joint with no mechanical fusion. The solder should not "ball up"... it should flow smoothly.

All of this should take no more than 3-6 seconds unless you're working something like a battery cable.

Overheating the joint is another common problem. This can result in:
Solder "wicking" up under the insulation rendering the wire stiff for several inches, leaving it prone to breakage.
Insulation damage
Wire becoming tempered and brittle
Crystallization of the solder itself

Likewise, don't disturb the solder while molten. Don't move it or blow on it.

 

I asked a question over on The12Volt to see if I could find out some more about the wiring of the 2nd ignition in the 2010 Tacoma. ( I am not sure if this applies to the earlier models) This diagram shows the wiring.. Its a tad confusing because of overlapping lines.

 

Is the bypass module still required if not connecting and using the remote start on the alarm? Thanks

 

I didn't know if you got that relay installed on that 2010 but I can post how I wired mine. I consider it pretty simple. But I did alot of research because this was nothing like a speaker or stereo installation. I will post some of the places I did my research hopefully it helps you or other people doing the exact same thing on thier Tacomas. I don't understand that wiring diagram from The12volt.com. at the bottom of the page is the way I wired mine. Works perfectly. Never give up hope I have been reading into this for 3 weeks now.

I installed a remote starter on my wifes 2012 Tacoma. After 3 weeks of researching how to install a unit like this I started the truck with the Ultra Start 1272 XR PRO out of the box after making all of the connections. I researched correct way to do this by reading what others have done wrong, or right. I decided to make my first post on Tacoma World forums EVER !!!
This site has been such a great help to me, and I find joy in helping other people. If anyone has any questions I would be more than happy to try to answer them. I am not a best buy installer or anything, but I feel I did a better job than best buy because of how I installed it.
My system had an internal relay revert a wire to second ignition, by default say the if the battery ever went dead or what not. Well you could program the system to use that as a second starter wire as well. I didn't know if hooking a starter wire with the ignition wire from the start was going to work right, and if the battery ever went dead then that wire would revert back ignition only anyways . So it was time fore me to learn how to Wire a relay. The remote starter only has 1 starter wire so you need a relay to make 2 starter wires for the remote starter to operate correctly, and your vehicle as well.
http://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom
In the search channel field just type in relays. There are 3 videos that will come up for moss. If you are trying to do one of these on your Tacoma I would advise learning what a relay is, and why you need it, and the most important thing HOW IT WORKS

Here I learned that a relay is just a magnetic switch with 1 prong grounded, another prong has 12 volts running into it, another prong has your starter 2 wire only connected, and the last prong has your starter 1 wire from your vehicle, and your starter 1 wire from your remote starter.

The place I bought the remote starter said just connect the 2 starter wires together to the remote starter. So I asked myself why does our truck have 2 starter wires in the first place if I can just connect both of them together then wouldnt there be only 1 and maybe 2 times thicker ? After doing some reading some people actually had mechanical failures who connected both starter wires together while doing there remote starters. I guess some starter wires have something to to with the transmission, just like the ignition has to do with the engine timing and spark.

I chose to leave the ignition 2 wire of the remote starter to its default ignition 2 so I would not damage my engine or transmission down the road. I also chose to wire a relay for a second starter wire add-on.

My Ultra Start 1272 XR PRO has what is called a virtual tach. Tach is your system measuring the voltage of your electrical compenants to know the engine is started and to stop cranking the starter. The older systems all have a wire tach, and do not have a virtual tach. My system is supposed to measure the voltage from the time I hit the button with virtual tach, but I dont know how reliable this virtual tach is so my newer system has both. Because I dont know how reliable this virtual tach is I wired the tach wire. From the time I hit the button on the remote I know it is being monitored through that wire. Because of that hard-tach wire my remote starter should NOT grind my starter damaging the teeth on my starter, and flywheel.

The following link is where I got vehicle specific wiring. AND A PICTURE WITH arrows pointing to and naming the wires as well. I studied the picture for 3 or 4 days before I got the bright idea and courage to print it off and disassemble the the interior in the truck and take a look. It even tells you how to !!!. The foot-rest just pops off which it doesnt tell you, and next to that foot-rest there is a plastic cap screw that screws onto a stud. You have to remove the foot-rest to get to the plastice screw. What puzzled me here first was how to get the foot-rest off without breaking it. The foot rest just pops off I dont remember where I read that off of but probably this site. The picture shows where the foot-rest was, and the cover next to it removed. After the foot-rest is removed, unscrew the plastic cap screw and just pull straight toward you on that side cover. Don't forget the screws behind your steering wheel Before you can finally pull the battery cables. I connected all of my wires with the battery cables disconnected. I also verified the information on The 12 volt.com with a few other websites because of my install the with the battery cables unhooked.

I also used masking tape to lable my remote starter wires with their corresponding Tacoma Wires. This was my first time doing this. I have wired radios, and speakers and such. But I have never wired a remote starter before.
Let me know if you have questions, and also if my post helps somebody I would like to hear as well. If information on how I wired my relay is needed I can try to post that as well, but just like remote starters I am new to this forum so I am finding my way around.


http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130004


Thanks,
Brad

85 goes to a body ground
30 goes to 12 volts "I connected mine with white with blue stripe."
That is your 12 volt 50 amp circuit. You have 2 12 volt wires.
87 goes to your 2nd starter wire
86 Starter 1 wire on ignition switch
Starter 1 wire on your remote starter as well


___________
! ! Starter 1 Wire !--------------!
! remote !---------!-------------! ignition !12 volts-----------! W
! starter ! ! ! switch ! ! H
!___________ ! ! !-------------! ! I
! ! ! T
! !Starter 2 wire ! E
! ! ! RED
! ! ! S
! !------------! ! T
! ! 87 ! ! R
! ! ! ! I
!--------! 86 85!-----GROUNDED ! P
! 30 !MINE TO 10 MM !
!------------! BOLT !
! !
! !
30 is 12 volts you have 2 in your ignition !
switch white/blue stripe, or white/ red stripe -----------

 

Well that didn't turn out. If you can provide an email I will send it to you.

 

Ok I figured out how to up-load on here. Here is the wiring I used to wire the relay on my remote start. You can see that starter 1 connects from the ignition switch to the remote starter module, and into 86 on the relay.

Starter 2 wire connects to 87 on the relay.

30 you could run it all the way out through the firewall to the battery if you wanted, but your going to be splicing into white/blue strip, and or white/red stripe anyways so why not just connect 30 on to one of those wires.

85 There a ground on your remote start, and there is a ground on your relay. When wired the connections in the house where it was warm I wired both grounds in together. Outside I connected them separate when I shortened the wire lengths. A ground is a ground.

 

I have been trying incredibly hard to figure out how to wire this freaking relay and there are a million different ways I have been told to do it, so I am going to make one post to rule them all, one post to find them, one post to bring them all and in the darkness bind them! Sorry just saw the Hobbit..

POSSIBLE RELAY WIRING VARIATIONS
"Wiring 1":
Connecting
+12 volt constant "connect" relay pin 86 and 87
Viper 2nd starter wire "connect" relay pin 85
relay pin 30 "connect" second starter wire on the truck

*** i used NO diode or any extra fuses during my installation *****

"Wiring 2":
Diagram
On the relay, standard Bosch/Tycho 4 or 5 terminal 87a not used, available from Radio Shack or any auto parts store.
The diode shown, also Radio Shack is mandatory or you WILL fry all the circuits on plug H2.
An alternative power source would be the thick white wire going to the fuse box.
Cut starter wire 1 green/black, key side to green, H3/5 and motor side to violet,
H3/4 of 5704.

"Wiring 3": (In Previous post ^)
Diagram
85 goes to a body ground
30 goes to 12 volts "I connected mine with white with blue stripe."
That is your 12 volt 50 amp circuit. You have 2 12 volt wires.
87 goes to your 2nd starter wire
86 Starter 1 wire on ignition switch
Starter 1 wire on your remote starter as well

"Wiring 4": (As seen in Original Post)
Diagram
Take some extra wire (6-ish inches) and solder it to pin 86 of the relay.
Take another piece of extra wire (6-ish inches) and solder it to pin 87 of the relay.
Now solder on one of the 20 amp inline fuses to the wire coming from pin 86 of the relay.
Solder the other 20 amp fuse to the wire coming from pin 87 of the relay.
Solder the Viper’s H2/18 (violet/yellow) wire to pin 85.
Solder some extra wire (12-ish inches) to pin 30 of the relay.

"Wiring 5": (As seen in a reply to OP ^)
Diagram


Please, if you understand this crap, clarify which will NOT fry my electrical system but WILL work as intended.

Thanks!

**UPDATE**

Posted this same thing on the12volt and they answered

The correct way is in THIS POST.

Diagram

"Do it they way Kreg is showing you. I have wired literally hundreds of second starters this way..." Referring to that diagram!

 

Others can correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the only function of a bypass module is to allow you to bypass the security that the manufacturers implement in order to prevent car theft via hotwiring or sticking a srewdriver in and starting up the car. So basically it just allows you to start the vehicle by bypassing this security feature.

The security feature is built into the keys and the truck, the truck will only start for the corresponding key or keys and these keys are specially made and over $100 from Toyota. Plus they can only be purchased from them. Its like Apple with their proprietary plugs on all their machines.

So basically, No. I don't know why it would. However I don't know much.

Hope this helps!

 

So I've been working on my remote start, surrounded by some very discouraging older mechanic-type guys, and all was going really well honestly, a few issues with the wiring diagram on bulldogs site being totally wrong for my year truck. But then something fairly bad/ frustrating happened.

I was working on the drivers side dash fusebox and I was trying to view the back, so I was pulling on it a bit like an idiot. Then my flipping ignition harness/ignition assembly thing freaking splits in half dropping multiple pieces. I'm still in the shop on my phone but hopefully I can figure out how to reassemble it without making the freaking truck start every time I give it power back.

 

On the new 2013 models does any one know if there is already installed a connecter plug to install a remote stater without having to cut into the wirering harness. The key pad I have does have a chip in it. I wonder if Toyota will be making one in the near future as an add on.

 

Key pad?

 

I'll chime in too. YEs you are right. BUT, it CAN be used to steal your car... If you did not have the kill switch hooked up to the break, hypothetically, someone could pop the ignition and steering lock and be gone.

The keys are effectively BYPASSED with a BYPASS module. That is what it is for.

The vehicle Will not start without the BYPASS or the key present.


But to answer the question originally presented, NO, Not needed if just for lock, unlock. Bypass if for remote start only in most cases.

 

Been a while since I've been on here (the sickness is finally starting to subside after nearly 3 yrs) but I've already gotten mine installed, complete with window mods and all.

I am having issues with my remotes as of late - Can't seem to get them programmed. I think I might need access to a bitwriter, which I do have, but the last time I tried to plug it in, it wouldn't stop the "reading from unit..." portion of connecting to the alarm brain.

If you think you can help, PM me.