Best motor oil???!!!

That's it...

I was thinking Beartooth Kawasaki, but ya... TT.

 

yep i have been a supermod on TT for 11+ years now

just traded in my '05 dclb prerunner sr5 for a '13 dcsb prerunner sr5

and i typically ran the ST3600 oil filter on my '05 or the pureone 10241 at 5k oci's with PP or PU oil.

trying to find a way to wire the power ports all time hot. did my 05 but the 13 is way different

 

i have lifetime oil changes so whatever my dealer uses is what i get lol.
pretty sure they run valvoline, when i had my Si i only ran penzoil

 

I have a question, I got 2 years free Toyota care, like most do when I picked up my new truck.

They want the first oil change on a NEW vehicle at 5k interval, with conventional oil.

Does this sound odd? I have not heard of conventional oil changes going that long, especially on a first oil change.

Should I request they change the oil at 3k miles or just do it myself? I will then switch to Mobil 1 synth.

 

Yep, that's the norm for the 4.0L Tacoma. I'm a bit OCD with engine break-in and maintenance in general, so I changed my truck's oil at 50 miles, 250 miles, and 500 miles with traditional/dino oil. At 1,000 miles I switched to Mobil 1 and then changed it again at 5,000 miles (for a 4,000 mile oil change interval). Since then, I've been on a 5,000 mile oil change interval with Mobil 1 exclusively.

When an engine is new there's a lot of junk floating around in the oil and filling up the filter that I don't want to keep in there. I'm sure my procedure was WAAAAY overboard, but I didn't mind and I want to drive this thing until it blows up or burns down.

 

All coming back now.

You ran straight 30 in the bike, right?

Double check before you grab a Supertech for the Taco. Around '05 or '06, Champion changed the design.
Look inside and if you see a black plastic cage, it's an E-Core, potentially worse than a Fram.

FWIW, OEM Denso can be had for $4 each in quantity from a couple of dealerships.

 

5k is fine with ANY oil.

No auto manufacturer has recommended 3000 mile intervals in over 20 years.
The only people pushing 3000 miles are quick-change lube places and people who sell oil.

Toyota's recommended interval on my 2003 Tundra and my wife's 2000 Echo was 5000 for severe conditions and 7500 for "normal" conditions... with NON SYNTHETIC oil.

Toyota gradually eliminated the 7500 mile interval model by model as the dash displays were redesigned to add the "Maintenance Required" light.


3000 mile OCI is a waste of time, money, and natural resources.

 

Yep, not that it would hurt by any means but 3k is overkill to me for oil changes. I often went 7k in my previous vehicle since I used fully synthetic.

 

The Tacoma recommendation is for 5000 mile intervals or 6 months whichever comes
first. I do mine every 4000 with a top of the line filter and use synthetic oil

 

before the crash, I ran reg non-synth quaker state & fram filter. Motor had 152K+. Went over the 6K mark almost every time bc of school & used crap gas. Every time I dropped it, still looked good. Man, I love the posts on this thread

 

I recommend 100% fully synthetic for sure. Oil is the MOST important maintenance on a vehicle. This is one area no one should skimp out on if they plan on keeping their vehicle for a long time. You may save a few extra bucks over time, using crappy oil, but you're shortening the life of your engine, potentially contributing to costly repairs in the future. I happen to use Mobil 1, but I read/heard good things about Royal Purple as well (my friend runs it in his 2010).

I spent MANY hours reading up on the subject including forums, studies, and data from independent tests/research. There's a LOT of crap/bias info out there to "filter" through (pun intended ).

The conclusion I personally came to after digesting all of that info was: Mobil 1 or Royal Purple. Please note that this is based on my own research/findings. I'm not telling anyone here they are using the "wrong" oil.

Running ANY brand of full synthetic is probably better than running traditional fossil fuel oil, although some are better than others. I had a conversation with a guy who takes engines apart to fix them for a living and he has seen the difference synthetic makes in an engine first hand, over and over again.

The regular stuff breaks down and gums up your engine over time, especially if you don't keep on top of it with regular oil changes. You can see the difference when you check the dipstick of a regular vs. synthetic after a few months. The synthetic will remain a clear golden color, while the regular stuff will have broken down to a chalky darker color. The chalky stuff is what ruins your engine over time. There's also additives/fillers some manufacturers add to their oil such as waxes which contribute to gumming up your engine.

Another benefit is that it is not as big of a deal running over the mileage between oil changes when you're running synthetic vs traditional oil. I've heard of some people going over 8,000km between oil changes and the oil still looks decent. (not my recommendation though) I do mine every 4,000KM

My 2 cents.

I bought my truck used with 160,000KM. First thing I did was gave it the Seafoam treatment and filled her up with full synthetic. It was incredible all the crap that burned off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Vqs8QWvssmg#!

 

Did you see any comparative UOAs on Royal Purple?

Here's the results from my motorcycle.
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/oil.xls
After only 2000 miles, the 20w50 had broken down to a 30wt, and it did not do any better than Castrol GTX non-synthetic.

 

Oil doesn't go bad just sitting right? So if I bought two 5 quart jugs and used one completely and added the extra from the other 5 quart each time I wouldn't have a problem with the extra going bad?

 

If the container is sealed, it will last indefinitely.
The issue with using "old" oil is that it may not meet the API specs required by a newer engine.
Example, I wouldn't bat an eye at putting oil from a cardboard can of Shell Fire & Ice 10w40 into my 1981 Honda CB750, but I would not put it in my Tacoma.

Opened container, oxidation is a concern, but it's a long-term issue. A year or two is not a concern at all.

Personally, I buy 6-packs... the extra half quart ends up getting used by my wife's Rav4 between changes.
If 6-packs aren't on sale, I buy 5qt jugs plus a single quart.

 

Where do you look for 6 packs?

 

It has been so long, and I read so much crap, I don't recall. I don't buy Royal Purple personally. I find it expensive unless it goes on sale.
Interesting... Thanks for the link.

 

if you were to read from a site that is founded on oil tests and oil reports....oh say like
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
you will find that royal purple isnt held in that high of regard.
what you will find is that PU and PP (that would be pennzoil ultra and platinum) are often reported to be better than the much hyped M1.

talk is worthless, go fill a test bottle and prove it!

steve

 

Costco occasionally puts them on sale with a $10 instant rebate making them $27.
Limit 3 per, so I'll hit up 3 or 4 stores and load up on 9-12 boxes.

 

I've been using the Penzoil Ultra for the past 2 years. I'm at 130k miles and no complaints. It comes out with plenty of life at 5000 miles. Don't know if it's better than M1, but it works for my 08.

 

My take, and experience over the 40 years I've been maintaining cars is the cheapest name brand oil changed reliably is still the way to go. I use Mobil1 in the two cars in the family fleet that require full synthetic (2012 Siverado and 2010 Prius), all the other cars get Quaker State. Why Mobil 1 and QS? Because they are $24.95 and $13.95 each per 5 quart jug at Walmart.
I change oil at or just below the factory recommended oil change intervals, that means up to 7,500 miles on non synthetic QS, and use either AC/Delco, or throw up your hands in horror, FRAM oil filters. I have run cars up to 200k and I have NEVER had a problem with "and internally lubricated" part. The two current high mileage cars in the family fleet are my son's 145k 2002 Malibu and my wife's 100k Sonata, both have lived life on QS 5w30 and QS 5w20 and oil changes at intervals up to 7.5k as per the manufacturer. Both have tight engines today with no loss in power, no oil burn between changes and no valve noise. The Malibu is falling apart around an otherwise tight engine and transmission but that is another story. And this has been my experience with all my other high mileage cars in the past.
Point is that modern engines and even the cheaper non synthetic oils have reached such a high level of quality and engineering excellence that they just work as advertised. There is no reason to go crazy with all the crap about which oil is better because THEY ARE ALL GOOD ENOUGH. An doing 3k oil changes on a car or truck that isn't raced or used for very serious off road is just a waste of money and precious resources.
Now back in the days of my 1972 VW Beatle which was air cooled and didn't have a filter just an oil screen.....