Synthetic oil in 2.7L?

ive run 5w/20 in my last 2 trucks when new.after 100,00 miles i switch to 10w/30.theres actually bulk oil distributors here close that will sell you a 32 gallon drum of mobil 1.kinda pricey but you got oil for 2 cars forever.

 

mobil 1 0w20 is the way to go

 

Heck I am even going to try 10w-30 Maxlife Full Syn this summer. Amazon screwed up and sent it instead of 5w-30. They sent the replacement 5w-30 no charge and said to dispose of the 10w-30 as I please. I doubt if it blows up if I use it in my truck in the summer. Probably put some in my lawn mower, as it specs 10w-30. It has a great NOACK rating.

 

I switched to synthetic at around 186,000, on a 95 Tacoma 2.7. My neighbor bought it at 227,000 mi. No problems at all after switching to the syn.

 

My service plan just ended and I will be chaning my own oil. I am going to with mobile 1 and either a filter from the dealer or a mobile 1 filter depending on which one is easier to get my hands on. Are most of you guys changing the gasket on the bolt that goes into the oil pan? I believe that's what the gasket is they are talking about in the guide. I never did that with my 4 runner, I guess I never thought about it.

 

Many here at TW do replace the oil plug gasket during an oil change, but not all. I don't replace the one in my 2006 Tacoma, and I have never replaced it in any of my other vehicles (AMC, Ford, Ford, Ford, Mazda) and I have *never* had a leaky plug. I am careful not to under- or over-tighten, which may or may not have anything to do with my good experience, I don't know. But I do know those gaskets are extremely inexpensive, so if you feel better replacing it, then do it and drive happy. If you are at the dealer anyway to buy a filter, just ask them for some plug gaskets and they might give you a handful for free, I've heard this from several TW users -- the dealers sometimes just give 'em away.

 

Fumoto Valve

 

Thanks for the reply! Medusa are you using that now? its not a little bit of overkill?

 

The 2.7l runs very well on synthetic. No issues.

 

Overkill is up for debate . It makes the process very clean, even more convenient. Never have to worry about a crush washer. I like it, just my opinion.

 

+1

Place pan under engine, open valve, have a beer or two while cleaning up the engine compartment, close the valve, replace the filter, refill, and done.


M1 filter is one of the better filters available, but the OEM filter can be had for around $4/filter from Camelback, Titus-Will, or Toyota of Dallas.
There's no reason not to run OEM. It is better than the Mobil-1 filter.

 

Good information and advice. I also recommend visiting Bobistheoilguy to read up on all things 'oil'. Lots of folks out there getting ripped off by dealers and quick lube shops who replace dino oil with synthetics but keep the interval the same. Having your oil tested is key to learning what your interval might be. In the test reports I've seen, test facilities sometimes offer clues as to what your oil change interval might be. This is why it's important to test more than once in a step process to know where contaminants are reaching hazardous/corrosive levels and where the oil properties are broken down to a point you risk engine wear or damage.

Changing more frequently than you need to is only robbing you of your hard earned dollars. But without the test results, you are better off following the manufacturer's recommend change interval and specified oil. Also check with your dealer: some have revised what oil can be used safely in your engine as newly developed oils not available when your Tacoma was born might be sanctioned for use. Good luck!!

PS - Rich's point on the filter selection is spot on as well. Folks sometimes are unaware that the aftermarket design is substandard and/or more expensive without offering any benefit (or possibly detracting from effectiveness). Don't buy on pricetag assuming that more expensive equates to 'better'. Also, buy in bulk to save money or leverage a sale/coupon if possible. After doing your research, select the filter you are most comfortable with.

 

Based on what prey tell ? Don't have any idea why you would switch back but don't know any reason why you couldn't.

 

Absolutely no reason you can't switch back, and you quoted a post from 18 months ago.

 

Thanks for the feedback medusa, I am looking at the valve more now . I was a little worried with 0-20w when its 0 out. Not joking literally 0 and the truck ran just fine

 

My 2012 came with synthetic and when I brought it in for the 5k service they didn't change the oil they told me it was due at 10k I had them change it regardless and it was also synthetic. I just can't do a 10k oil change... Maybe I am throwing money out I used to do 5k intervals with my 09 and it was Dino oil.

 

Prior to 2003/2004/2005, Toyota had both 5000 mile and 7500 mile recommended service intervals.

Around 2003 or so, as they "facelifted" the dash displays on various models, they added the "Maintenance Required" light, and they eliminated the 7500 mile service interval.

My 2003 Tundra had 7500/5000 mile intervals, my wife's '04 Rav4 has the idiot light and only 5k intervals.

And these intervals were predicated on conventional oil. I personally go with 5k intervals and full synthetic because I feel that it is cheap insurance, but honestly, 10k is not a problem on a quality synthetic and the Toyota OEM filter.
Repeated tests with used oil analysis show that the TBN (additive package) holds up fine to about 12k.

 

Mike, if you're worried about the 10000 mile engine oil change then change the oil filter at 5000. That's what I did with my Celica for many years.