K&N or TRD air filters. Worth it?

NT

 

no

 

If noise is worth it then maybe.

 

Depends on "worth it ". What are you expecting from a washable filter? I like them, don't mind washing them, don't have to buy another filter or remember to buy one or search for one.

Better gas mileage probably not. More hp, probably not.

Jim

 

I have a K&N drop in and I haven't fond anything negative about it. I take it out and knock the big stuff out at every oil change and then clean and oil it when it needs it. Lot's of negative and positive on this site but as far as is it worth it to you? I don't know.

 

Stock filters better op unless you have a coupon to get one for cheap go for it haha

 

I'm thinking of buying a AFE Pro Dry S filter...

 

Found a K&N for under 40.00, not a CAI, doubt I'd do another one of those if/when they hit the market for '12+ Tacomas'. I will buy a K&N filter once Toyota stops changing them for free!

 

Fixed that for you.

It does not filter as well as stock.
I've seen cylinders on engines "protected" by K&N filters show severe scoring, yet the factory honing crosshatch is still visible... plenty of life left in the steel, but they have oil consumption problems because of bad air filtration. Ever wonder why you see so many relatively recent model Civic and Corolla "Ricers" that smoke like a '72 Impala? The poor filtration has destroyed the engine.

Do yourself a favor.

Next oil change, send a sample to Blackstone.
On the new oil, switch back to the OEM filter. Run that filter for three oil change intervals and then send a sample to Blackstone.
Note the difference in Silicon levels.

That is dirt... in your oil. Dirt that has passed into the engine and past the rings on it's way into the oil, leaving scratches as it goes.

 

$40 for a drop in, and $20 for the cleaning/oiling kit.

That's $60.

OEM filters are $15 each and they are to be inspected at 30k, changed at 60k (unless needed at 30k).
$60 paid for OEM filters will cover your engine for at least 120,000 miles unless you slam your filters offroading.

 

Very interesting, do you have any sources? Where did you get the info? Thanks.

 

I had a '94 Toyota pickup with a 22RE that burned oil.
Traded it in with 225k on it... it burned a quart every 3000 miles.

I've personally seen engines opened up with scoring (I've been twisting wrenches since before we walked on the moon).

I've sent used oil to Blackstone for analysis from my motorcycle. I'm stuck with a K&N due to the intake design (poor decision). Blackstone has commented on every sample since the intake change that I should check my filter.


K&N filters were designed for racing vehicles that only need to "last" 500-1000 miles between rebuilds.

 

ok, I wasn't doubting you, just asking. So in your opinion factory filters are better? What about fram's from walmart? Better than putting a K&N on it? I know my last one said it functioned better dirty and they didn't recommend cleaning it every oil change.

 

I'd stick with OEM (and they are available inexpensively from Camelback, Titus-Will, or Toyota of Dallas, likewise for OEM oil filters at $4), but the Fram air filters are not bad filters. Fram's issue with oil filters is cheap construction and low filtration area. Their air filters are not hidden in a can, and are well-made filters.

Personally, I'd run a Purolator before a Fram if available, but that's simply a personal thing in not wanting to support Allied's Fram division. I'd run a Fram before I'd run another K&N air filter.

 

noted. thanks I think you just saved me forty bucks.

 

K&N's can and will filter as well as anything when its kept CLEAN and OILED properly. The oil is what catches the fine particles. If the oil gets over-penetrated with dust/dirt...it can't filter properly anymore and thus allowing dust to get past it. I've owned K&N's in several vehicles. I've washed them twice a year to keep them properly cleaned. Any oiled filter will act the same way....they're not something you can throw in your truck and expect it to work for long periods without maintaining and cleaning. If you over-oil them, can also cause problems.

So - theoretically....if you leave the K&N filter in your truck too long without cleaning it, it will allow dust past it. You can't blame K&N for that.

If you can't regularly maintain a K&N - then perhaps people shouldn't buy one. And yes...I stopped buying them because I don't want to clean it every 6 months. I bought an AFE and I clean it once a year.

 

Just wait..... you will see negatives sooner then later

X2.....

Install one and then clean your intake after the filter. You can see visually the difference of dirt the K&N lets in.

I was running K&N's for over 20 years until this year. I have always followed the directions and cleaned them regularly. K&N actually states the dirtier they get the better filtration they provide so not so sure about your theory.

I never had issues in the past running them on quads, dirt bikes, and my other vehicles but I also did not drive them in the dusty conditions I drove my Tacoma in.

I have no scientific evidence that K&N's allow more dirt to pass, but I have physical proof. The difference between a K&N and OE type Wix paper filter is very evident should you ever clean your MAF/intake.

Once I saw all the dirt getting by last year I decided to change over to Wix OE type filters. Since then my #6 cylinder has developed horrible scoring and the engine is now FUBAR. While I cannot blame the failure on anything specifically until I tear it down I do believe running the K&N on a truck with a snorkel in very dusty conditions did have a hand in the failure.


So to all out there...if you want no issues stick with stock. It's tried and true.

 

It's very simple filtering vs. flow, can't have both.

Oiled cotton gauze filters (K&N, TRD, etc.) have been shown by many independant tests (some "company" sponsored, some not) to definitely flow better, but that they do not filter the finer dirt as well as paper or even oiled foam. Also oiled gauze filters, from these tests, show that they actually do filter better the dirtier they get, up to the dirt holding limit, whereby they stop flowing too. IOW, a clean oiled gauze filter flows best, but filters worse, while a dirty filter flows worse, but filters better.

Some searches will find several tests done, and some time on BITOG will prove out the increased silica levels when using oiled cotton gauze filters.

BTW, from the research I've done, the aFe dry filter is a bit of an outlier here. The oil analysis data that I've seen shows an initial small increase in silica, then it levels out (after the filter gathers a bit of dirt) and holds. I would assume it holds until the filter is washed out anyway. I haven't seen any independant tests that included the aFe dry type filter.

 

I would doubt their own theory *dirtier they get the better filtration* as that just goes against all air filter common sense. Besides that - you probably won't see them advertise a dirty filter will give you the same airflow as a clean one, which....defeats their claims on both ends.

K&N's are for horsepower & more airflow (theoretically) and probably not a good idea for dusty conditions anyway.

I never saw dust past my filter when I cleaned it every 6 months. The dustier the conditions...the more often it should be cleaned. That's my story anyway, and I'm sticking to it.

Everyone else can make their own decisions based on the positive and/or the negative feedback.

 

More fuel for the fire!

I put the TRD CAI on my Tacoma almost as soon as I bought it new. 85K miles on it now. Just yesterday I did a little preventative maintenance, cleaned the filter, pulled mass air flow sensor, pulled the tube to the throttle body. Did the white glove test, actually white paper towel, on the front of the throttle body clean as a whistle, mass air flow sensor (never been cleaned) bright and shiny.

I have a K&N in my '86 500 Interceptor, been there since around 18K miles, now at 45K still is with in factory compression specs, no problems related to intake air dirt, air box is always clean, changed out carbs for the larger '84-85 versions at 42K, old carbs and intake boots clean inside. This on an engine that is very fragile compared to the GR1-FE and runs about close to a 1000 rpms per 10 miles an hour in 6th with factory final drive gearing.

160K on my '92 Ranger 4.0 K&N no engine problems related to dirt getting past the filter. 8 paper air filters in that mileage = reasonable=at least $80. $40 something for the K&N=I'm ahead if I don't look at my labor to clean and the minimal amount of oil.

Sorry your results varied.

Jim