New England B.S. Thread

While your here...

I noticed one difference is you guys have flood/spot combos and trexlight doesn't as far as i know. I already ordered a light from trexlights but there is no such thing as to many lights

 

Yeah, like that... let me know if you need any more 'testers'. I'd love to see how they compare to my current setup!

 

Where did you guys mount your remote breather mod. Most have put it in the cubby or the large storage area. Some have put it behind the fuel door. My concern is I have a bed cover and dont want the fumes hanging under the cover and making everything stink like Diff fluid

 

Ive got mine in the bedside storage area and have no issues with a diff fluid smell.

 

Inside the fuel door.

 

Thats where I am thinking also just to keep it "outdoors". I thought I would try to be up high so any water getting behind the fuel door wouldnt bother it

 

Same here, I didn't want it to vent into the bed because of the cap (sometimes the dog rides back there).

Mine is on the bottom behind the fuel door. Unless it submerges, water from car washes and rain won't bother it.

 

cool thanks

 

Treklights XT and our lights are completely different. The only commonalities are that they use CREE LEDs and a similar optics design. The housing, chips, and drivers are all different and certainly not made by the same company.

As far as spot/flood/combo...Well, it cost 3x as much in overhead/stock if you offer all three models.

I am not here to say anything bad about TrekLights. They certainly have their place in the market and are a fine option.

Keep in mind that all the major manufacturers are using similar setups. CREE really is the best option for building light bars like this. CREE has been an industry standard for a long time, at least before I became involved with LEDs, and that was back in 2005-2006. Keep in mind that there are about 20 different CREE LED models in discrete LEDs alone. Within those 20 models there are ~five different choices that output between 5000k-6000k color temp. There are a lot of options to choose from and still say that you produce a CREE light bar. Not all of these chips are created equal. Some of those are not suited for use in this application and some of them work quite well. Manufacturers have spent plenty of time pawing through spec-sheets and doing bench testing to figure out what is right for their application. Size, heat sinking, lumens/watt, cost, and more are all factors in deciding which LED chip works best. Even though Option A may put out more lumens/watt than Option B, it could be twice as expensive as Option B. Option B might also have the ability to be slightly over driven than the specs call for and with proper heat sinking can put out more lumens than Option A. This could lead to Option B being a better choice for max lumens, even though the base specs suggest otherwise. It is all about finding the right chip for your needs. Not everyone will end up with the same result.

Epistar is another top brand of chip that is a little bit more inexpensive than CREE. You get what you pay for and although the Epistar is a fine chip, it typically isn't chosen based on it's performance specs. It is chosen when you need to build a lamp to a price point. It does it's job well enough that it fits the requirements and comes in at budget. That doesn't mean that Epistar lights are bad, it just means that they are similar to that John Deere tractor that you get from Home Depot. It has bushings instead of bearings, the deck is made of 18ga instead of 16ga, and the fenders are plastic instead of metal. It will still mow the lawn, but you sacrifice some quality. I offer Epistar options to those that don't want to spend the money on top light output but still want the advantages of an LED bar. Sometimes space restrictions or just plain good looks determine what goes where.

 

Actually, even if it does submerge, it'll be fine. The issue with the breather being right on top of the differential is if it submerges when diff is piping hot, the sudden cooling causes it to rapidly pull in air. With the breather being up further, the diff should be cool enough by the time the breather gets submerged (and unless you're Alex, your fuel door shouldn't be under water).

 

I put mine in the fuel door like mike no issues so far . It's been in there a year or so .

 

I also found the "T slot nuts" at Graingers for the rails so we can mount/bolt items to the rail http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/mi...machining/ecatalog/N-c3f?op=search&sst=subset

 

Ya that is the location I like the best

 

Nice! I picked up a few from ATO. Before he merged with 4xInnovations, he was making square plate washers already threaded. They're stout but with the cap, I have no use for them any longer

 

They come in all sizes not that I can see anyone using one with 1/4 x 20 threads

 

Thanks for the clarification! I like the analogy by the way lol. So you guys are out of NH? Do you have a store or do you only do business online? I need a hi lift and a receiver shackle.

 

Where's the breather fitting?

 

So Dave no valve? You are relying on the downward angle to prevent flow back. Again if the water is that high I have other issues