Steering wheel Shake

Well...crap!
Guess the real final fix for my Taco is a Honda Ridgeline or something else?
Service Dept. tried, but no joy.
Anybody have any input? Guess Toyota seems unable to fix this?
Crap.

 

Enjoy that new Ridgeline. Be sure to check out their forum: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/ ... they don't seem to be perfect either

 

Do you know if the service department actually removed your rear driveline to diagnose low speed instability?

If you are still using the stock suspension components
that is something to think about as well as changing the differential fluid
to a non synthetic gear oil.

I have replaced my front struts and rebuild the calipers , I'm planing on replacing the rear shocks in the near future, the front struts wouldn't even rebound and could be compressed manually relatively easy.

Since 09 was the first year to have the standard VSC track ASB controlled system the brake system in my opinion would play a major roll.

Brake fluid need to be exchanged/ replaced every 30,000 miles or three years, and if there is anything that would cause the ABS system to malfuction, such as a wheel speed sensor or air leak in the system, it is not impossible to think it may not show up as an error/trouble code to be diagnosed.

Since the dealership does not pay a competitive wage, compared to what they use to, service maintenace is their prime objective, not service repair.
If their primary focus was repair then how would they sell new vehicles?

Find out how many years the average tech has worked at the dealership you go to compared to others in your area.

Or just find a specialized independant shop that is an authorized repair facility.

There will be at least one lead tech in a dealerships service department but they can only be stretched so far.

 

Hey thanks!, NOT really looking for perfection; just better reliability considering the price. I could be mistaken but, I think my money $$ went into their bank just fine without any defect or repair?

Do you know if the service department actually removed your rear driveline to diagnose low speed instability? Yes

Thanks for your input.

 

I am looking into a 2012 or 2013 DCSB - has anyone experienced this issue on the 2012s or 2013s?

Thanks in advance -

 

Yup, lots of 2012 and 2013, mine included. I wouldn't buy one with this prob. Huge other thread on this: driveline vibration.

do a search and you'll find a lot on this problem, Toyota's been taking 2 approaches to it also: 1. deny and dismiss as "normal" 2. attempt a fix for the auto transmissions only using "springs, trans mount, and a weight in the steering wheel.

meanwhile others have fixed the prob on their own with a new custom drive shaft.

 

I found why my 08' was shaking in the steering wheel, it's the rack & Pinion! & of course they do not make a Bushing replacement Kit for 08', so its a new or refurbished 1...

 

Going in tomorrow for the airbag/steering wheel recall thing.
Figured I would have them install that damper in the wheel while it's open.

I'll post results

 

Ok. So the shaking and popping noise came back at about 8700 miles after my steering rack was replaced at 4700 miles on my 2012 tacoma. The wandering on the road had gone away since the rack replacement, but now every time I take it for a car wash or it rains the popping noise had come back and getting progressively worse. It's in the shop right now. Suspect the cam bolts keep coming loose. We just took it through the car wash and duplicated the popping sound. It was extremely loud. At one point I could put my foot on the breaks then just shift from drive to reverse and it would pop. When it pops I can feel it reverberate in the floor board. The shop is gonna call me back by the end of the day to pick it up or get me another rental

 

Just got my call back from the shop. They are ordering a new lower control arm assembly for the drivers side! Yikes.

 

well, the dealer says there are no mounting holes for this damper on my 05 steering wheel

guess I'll eventually get the intermediate shaft replaced.

 

So as of now there really isn't a fix for this issue. Mine has a steering wheel slight shake from 50-65mph as well ever since I mounted my GY Duratracs 265/75/16

 

I had a really bad steering wheel shake after I put on my 265/75/16 cooper st maxx tires. I thought I just had a bad set of tires as I was getting them rebalanced monthly. I'm lifted about 2.5" and could never get my alignment right so last week I installed some total chaos UCAs and got an alignment and that took out 95% of my vibes.

 

after tires/wheels balance / re- balancing and alignments

this 50-65 mph shake is what I have.
supposedly the intermediate shaft tsb fixes this
but that's like 2 or 300 bucks , and may or may not fix it.

 

I figured out the guaranteed fix...get rid of the Taco. Worked like a charm!

 

i have a 2013 DC 2wd with stock tires and wheels and 5400 miles. my truck has been vibrating since day one. i took it in for a balancing at 2000 miles and it seemed to help with the steering wheel vibration; however, the passenger side seat was still shaking. when i got my tires rotated, both the steering wheel vibration and cabin shake was back.
i've heard a lot talk about how bad the Dunlops are; could this be the cause of problem? i find it hard to believe that a steering column on a new truck would need the tsb that others on this post are experiencing.

 

Just purchased a 2013 Dc and same wheel shake. 50_65mph slight steering wheel wobble. Have plans to add bilstein 5100's in a few days to level truck wondering if that will help. If not tires and wheels are in the future.

 

If you have aftermarket rims: Check to see if the wheels are hub centric? The Tacoma uses hub centric rims not lug centric. You need hub centric or hub centric adapters for wheels that are not.

 

We need to find a good company and push them to start making these. I am sure they would sell pretty well.

 

So I read through most of this thread. Bought a 2010 with bad shake on aftermarket tires, stock rims, had them balanced by Les Schwab and it got a lot better but wasn't gone. Then took it to Discount for new tires, still on stock rims. Again better but not gone.

Step one seems to be make sure they use a Haweka balancer. I watched them balance the tires, but I have no idea if they did or not. This is what it looked like:


Only the middle piece was more flat bowl shaped )

No other pieces, nothing with studs.... could someone clarify if this was correct, and if then the next step is to go back and ask them to balance closer to 0 and or use stickies? (I was surprised there is a weight on the outside rim edge, they always used stickyweight on my Jeep).