What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Thanks! Lights are just simple LED strip from a local shop. Used a relay to be safe.

 

Thanks. Negative on the triangles. It took me long enough to do and redo main part so I'm going to stick with what I've done.

 

I finished up the wiring for the front LED light bar, two other LEDS for the hood brackets (waiting for them) and rear lights.
Pulled the wires under the rear carpet into the center console and behind the rear seat where the aux fuse panel is.
Wires & switches are all in place just need to run one to rear for rear light

 

Damn that's a lot of wiring! Wish I knew how to wire in led's and anything else to do with wires.

 

Do you have a lift or new UCA's?

 

Hopefully it's lifted cause spacers will cause the tires to rub even more.

 

I ordered the relay wiring harness off of Amazon. 5 relays with plug in harness.
It was driving me crazy getting the lights hooked up, I popped at least 12 fuses and couldn't figure what I was doing wrong.
You would think the black wire were ground & red was hot.
Hell no those were backwards in the harness and the reason I was popping fuses. Once I got that taken care of it was easy to run the wires for the lights & switches

 

That's weird. I've never seen or even heard of a red wire being the ground or a black wire being hot

 

Appreciate it! I actually put them on both sides since I had no idea!!

 

If you lift out your tailgate you will see that the passenger side is where it lifts out of and the driver side is where it slides into. You want to put the hose clamp on the passenger side to prevent someone from lifting it out. Clamping the drivers side doesn't help.

 

Had the same problem when I put on my 285's. Spidertrax took care of that. Mine would rub on the upper control arm at full lock

 

Made my last payment

 

Red being ground is definitely not normal, but in AC circuits, black is hot, green or bare is earth/safety/chassis ground, and white is neutral. Red is normally the other 120 leg of a 240 supply!

European colors are different... blue, brown, and green with a yellow stripe for ground.
Neutral is blue, AC hot is brown. 2-phase would add black, and 3-phase would add grey for the 3rd leg.

 

Installed Eibachs with billy's set @ .85 front, and billy's with 2" AAL rear

 

Had some snow today and i finally had a chance to get her into 4wd and see how she does, very impressed! Love this truck more and more each day.

 

Yup.

If I'm running a mix, I'll never use black for the DC ground.
Always red and white, bundled to separate the DC ground from neutral.

If 240 is involved, it stays with NEC and the DC gets a tracer color.


Now, traffic signals? We're running a pair 28 conductor cables.
Each cable handles half of the intersection, but because of the sequencing, both cables are needed on all 4 corners.
Yup... 27 #14s and a #10 neutral (chassis ground uses the conduits or a bare copper if the conduits are PVC).

Now... at 3am when it's raining and you're in the mud, try to identify a yellow from a faded red... or ID a red with one black tracer from a red with two black tracers or a purple tracer.

28 conductors, but we only use brown, yellow, red, blue, and white.
brown is green, yellow is yellow, red is red, blue is pushbuttons, and white is neutral and the pushbutton common (tracer on the PBC).

 

This looks a severe collision, where the frame bends so you don't end up with a broken spine... Equivalent damage in a car would be a crumpled trunk:

 

And the Mazda3 drove away didnt you say?

 

Interesting. 45 mph frontal impact for a Mazda3 should look like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0pFu8Y0Yqc

 

Except it went under the soft bumper of a taco instead of into a solid wall.