How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

I'm sticking to the good ol' Original Gangstas

 

Hey Chris,

(1st post btw) enjoyed your very thorough description. I'm about to do my plugs so I may do something similar since mine is an '04. You wouldn't have any idea what the gap for those plugs should be would you?

I bought a new set of Densos from Toyota and the guy said they should be good to go. I checked one and it was about .033. They are dual electrode.

Thanks,

Scott

 

Chris,

As I said before, props to you for this step by step. Could not have been more clear nor would I have successfully completed the task or even attempted without your instructions.

My question, as indicated in the title line, has to do with the use of anti-sieze on the plug threads. To the best of your knowledge, does Toyota or Denso or NGK specifically state that anti-sieze should be used, or not used, for this application?

I am not questioning the efficacy of the use, or not, of anti-sieze. I have not been able to find this mentioned in the limited Toyota literature I possess.

Thanks in advance.

paul
aka Snappa

 

Hey Chris, thanks for the info. Do you mind telling me what your source is for that?

 

Chris,

Thanks for the reply. I also ride a Honda GL1800 m/c. Among others, a particular NGK spark plug is recommended. The spark plug number has a suffix or prefix, which I cannot recall at this time, indicating an anti-seize compound of some type has been applied at the factory to this particular plug. Additional anti-seize is not recommended.

ride safe

paul
aka snappa

Chris,

Let me stand corrected on the foregoing. NGK specifically recommends that anti-seize not be applied on plugs with a metal shell plating such as zinc or nickel, on the threads:


"Applying anti-seize to the threads of spark plugs that have a metal plating allows the installer to mistakenly over-tighten the spark plug in the cylinder head; This stretches and fatigues the threads of the spark plugs, causing a much higher probability that the plug will break during installation or in some cases upon removal." Additional info:

http://ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

However, given the foregoing, each do what they feel is best.

As always,

ride safe

paul
aka snappa

 

It's interesting to note that both NGK and Denso both do not recommend using anti-sieze compound due to over-torquing problems.

Also NGK recommends 18-21.6 lb-ft where Denso recommends 14.75-22 lb-ft of torque.

I'm curious where the 15 lb-ft value came from in this thread (probably the FSM).

So I'm curious if we really should be using anti-seize compound on the plugs. Prior to buying a torque wrench I always seated the plug by hand and then used a socket wrench to crush the washer and slightly more until it was a good snug fit. I learned that from my daddy. Plugs without washers were different and those were hand tight + slightly more until it firmly stopped. It's hard to describe it, that is why a torque wrench comes in handy.

 

I have always used White Lithium Grease on my threads... Just did my plugs in about an hour.. Pics to follow soon. and WOW! do I have news!

 

So after I found out we should change out our plugs every 30k I started doing research and found that NGK V-Power's are the most reccomend I bought a set and just did them about 2 hours ago. my truck has 82K on it and here to find......... I .... STILL..... HAVE.... THE..... ORIGINAL.... PLUGS.... INSTALLED!! Great!.. This is prolly why I could only get 17MPG max when I bought it 2 years ago when it was bone stock and had 67K on it. I put an intake on it hoping it would help fuel mileage and it didn't ( BTW the intake make its much easier to plugs ) Then I did the lift which I knew would hurt the fuel mileage but wait til you see what the plugs gap is when I took them out. So new plugs are in and Here's for new and improved fuel mileage I hope. (PS. I also noticed the Denso Plugs were harder/ required more force to thread out of the heads then the NGK's which came out quite easy)

Easier install with an intake

Just loosen the clamps there and you can get to the front plug

82K on the denso plug (its a "little" out of spec)

The NGK's with 82K on them



All 6 plugs.. NGK's were on drivers side Denso on Passenger side

 

White Lithium grease for the threads? Isn't that the wrong product? Typically anti-seize is not lithium based for high heat applications. It's more of a selection of powered metals mixed into a paste. And these there is dielectric grease for the spark plug wires if you ant them to pull off easy in a few years.

 

Its what I have ALWAYS used on plugs and I have had quite a few fixer uppers and never have I ever had issues removing plugs after 5 years after I did plugs with White Lithium

 

Yea, I really would prefer to use anti-seize compound too so thanks for the feedback about the torque spec. In the old days I always used it but we didn't have fancy coatings on the plugs and aluminum heads were for people who had money to burn, which wasn't my family

 

Oh how I love helicoils ! I use them in my line of work whenever someone screws (pun intended) up, never had to use them on an engine. I've seen some monster sized helicoils when I was on the submarine, thankfully I didn't have to to drill, tap, and insert those monsters. The small ones are fine unless it's some heavy duty steel (normally was) and then the easy-outs were never that easy to make work. Try an easy-out on a stainless steel 4-40 screw, no fun drilling it out. Sorry for the ranting on an on.