Geode's plumbing build

Yes. Most have heat trap nipples but piping heat trap works well.
Any expansion tank?

 

The water heater will supply DHW and radiant heat (via double wall heat exchanger). There will be an expansion tank for the radiant side (closed loop). Inspector said its not needed on the supply to the water heater as our city supply is an open system. There are no check valves etc between my water main and the city supply. I think it is like having my whole neighborhood as a buffer tank if you will.

 

That's correct unless you have a prv,pressure reducing valve,then the house is a closed loop.
Sounds like you're getting It done right.

 

We are lucky, our city water is very clean and the pressure is well regulated. I'll be tossing in a pressure gauge next time I break the water line apart. It will be interesting to see how much it actually fluctuates over time. Thanks for the heads up on the prv, one never knows when that information could come in handy. I appreciate all your help/comments incidentally

The photos are not clear, but I had the plumber run the gas line up in the joist bay as it heads to the outer wall, then it goes 90 degrees and drops below the joist as it heads to the water heater along the wall. Question is, if I run my new copper water lines through the middle of the joists they will pass over the gas line by about 1/2". Is there anything wrong with this closeness, or should I elbow the water lines up and over the gas line with more clearance to spare?

Also, the green strings indicate where the water lines will go. They are approximately 12" and 20" away from the outer wall. They look like they will provide easy access for instalation and any future repair work. I want to make sure the sytem is servicable.
Thanks

 

Lets say I'm going to sweat solder pipe onto each end of a full port valve.

I'll fully open the valve, remove the handle and wrap a cold wet rag around the valve.

Then I solder one end, should I let the valve cool completely prior to sweating the other end? Or should I solder both ends so that the valve is heated only once?

 

Get it soldered all at once and cool down the ball valve. Just enough heat,not too much.

1/2" is getting close to anything metallic for copper. I'd use some 45's instead of 90's,and remember to ream the pipe grasshopper.

 

You can always put a gauge on utility sink spout or drain to water heater,garden hose threads usually come with water pressure gauges you can get at Lowe's .

 

I've managed 1" from the gas line with the copper. Can always add some 45's, or should I do that before I solder it all together?

Reaming is in my blood I did carry (in pieces) a milling machine into my basement.....Good mention though, I've heard the rough edges will with water flow erode the copper.

 

It'd be better before soldering,easier. Elbows are fast and easy but if was my place I'd use 45's.

I usually find pinholes near elbows.

 

I've got an inch separation, and I was planning to insulate the copper. Do you think that is to close? Rather not have the bends but want to do things right.

Also, I'm coming up short on information on the outside vent and exhaust terminations. The manual shows just straight pvc pipe terminating outside. Seems like there should be a screen or something to keep birds and other things out? Obviously you wouldn't want to restrict the flow. The pipes exit horizontally on the side of the house about 2.5' above grade.

Thanks

 

By the way, if we ever get this finished I would be glad to send you a case or two of your favorite brew......No good deed goes unpunished or so they say.

 

How many shut off valves are enough?.........

Here is a rough schematic of the hot water line. There are two X's with circles, wondering if I should add valves there to isolate the two branches?

 

Sorry OP,just saw your posts.
If you have an inch and copper is getting Insulated,go for It. You'll be good.
There is a pop in screen for that installation. Look around Lowe's,or get creative. 2-1/2'' is kinda close to ground. Would snow pack be a problem? Run off in storms? We would dig out around stub outs like yours down here,but not boilers,t and p's. And line the hole with pavers,or stub into a valve box. But you need protected air flow,so don't put in valve box.

 

I appreciate the offer,but I don't drink.

 

I love valves. I feel you can't have enough. If you think you'll overheat solder valves,just get threaded ones and screw in male adapters before soldering.

 

The vent and exhaust are 2 1/2 feet above grade, so should be good there. I'll take a look at Lowes etc for a screen of sorts.

 

Yeah I've not had a drink since October of 1988...long story...lol
I do appreciate your input

 

Cool, I'm pretty sure I can solder them without destruction....We will see...

 

I'm wondering which type of water pipe insulation to go with? From what I've read, sounds like the foam insulation with a slit and 5/8" wall thickness is the berries. Supposedly an R4 rating.

 

That'll work but if ya can't get thicker,and you want it thicker,just get more of bigger id,whatever your od is,get the id to go over it.