DIY Hi-Lift and Tool Mounts

Thanks Craig, I will have some more pics and an in depth write-up for this mount and the tool mount soon, so stay tuned! My new shovel was just delivered too

 

Finished painting and plasti-dipping. Gonna reassemble everything tomorrow and tale more pics/notes.

 

TTT, finally got the OP update with the other mounts.

Don't know what was up with TW tonight, but the server was WAY slow, and timed-out quite a few times. Thank god for cached browsing.

 

I like the updated pics with the measurement details. Thanks

 

You can use a premade brace that are sold at home improvement stores.
They are pre drilled and only need trimming with a cutoff wheel or chop saw.
The fender bolts can be mounted on the bed rail using washers that fit the width of the rail but the inside of the diameter of the washer filed to fit the square shank of the fender bolt, to assimulate tightening inside the rail.

 

cool, how did that work for you? I didn't find any "pre-made" L or T brackets with the right dimensions that would work for this.

I prefer the T-slot nuts as a bed rail fastener. nice solid fit, and wide enough to distribute the load evenly.

 

I just used some that were about 12 inches long and cut them to length,
I used Carriage Bolts and fender washers (not fender bolts sorry)
(The head of the carriage bolt slides into the bed rail with the washers)
The washers are stacked to a reasonable thickness to allow for adjustment
but the washer closest to the head of the carriage bolt head is cut square with a file so it locks itself in place when you tighten the wing nut or bolt.

I mounted my hi-lift on the opposite bedrail than yours but I made sure the ratcheting mechanisim catch springs were outside of the rail and the jack was more flush and against the bedrail.
With the jack secured at both ends and
only a slight bend to the braces I find no need for a t-brace.

I think I used 1/2 inch Carriage Bolts though instead of 3/8.
Most of the weight of the jack is in it's foot (base) so supporting the bar with a brace and fastners is on each end is sufficent.

I re thought the design somewhat and was considering using wheel bolts so I could have the extra security of implimenting wheel locks instead of nuts or wing nuts.

I saw a few T braces in the fastener section near the lumber I think they're called "Everbilt"?

*Reviewing your pictures you could have used 1/2 inch bolts and the weight of your jack is mounted
up where mine is down the handel lever and the back of the base is where most of the weight is.
My mounting postion with the handel down is also closer to the rail so I have shorter braces.

 

Do you have any pics of your install?

 

Yeah, as with anything, there are different options and configurations. I think 3/8" bolts for the Hi-Lift are a better option because the outside diameter on the 3/8" nut fits perfectly in the hi-lift hole, providing a more secure fitment with no play.

There are 100s of different ways to make your own mount, I just wanted to share a relatively cheap and easy option that worked great for me. Hopefully other members will try it and share their results and possible areas of improvement.

Thanks for sharing your feedback and ideas.

 

These are 1/2 inch bolts, but it had been a while since I made these so I
discovered the bed rail bolts were hexagon head with a washer and internal and external star lock washers .

The Jack is held by the carriage bolt, and the strap braces pre drilled hole is filed square for the carriage bolt's neck to lock into and sit flush, internal star washer and a washer with a wing nut.

The jack is actually only being held by one strap, since I was side tracked when fabricating them but it hasn't moved or bounced.

I will probably cut the other brace tomorrow but since the jack sits flush against the bed I'll need to attach the brace to the outside of the Jack and won't need to square the strap's hole, because a 1/2 carriage bolt snuggly locks into the elongated hole of the Jack's bar.

*Comparing your Jack mount to mine yours is mounted higher,
and I will probably adjust my Jacks position to sit like yours.

 

aah, gotcha. Now I see what you were talking about. I had it pictured completely different in my head. Thanks for posting pics

Do the star washers/lock-washers keep the hex head from spinning in the bed rail? It seems like it would be hard to sufficiently tighten it down like that.

I like the height of the mounts I built because the Hi-Lift clears everything perfectly, and the base plate securely rests on top of the of the edge/lip of the bed liner.

 

I like your set up Ben...clean for sure. Does the jack move at all while wheeling?

 

Thanks Jay. The Jack seems very secure and doesn't budge when I try to move it by hand. I haven't had a chance to wheel with it yet, but I will know this weekend though

 

What isn't seen very well is the fender washer between the internal,
and external stars.
The hex head and all the washers are slid into the end of the rail,
the fender washer is almost the same width as the inside of the bedrail.

In effect the fender washer centers the bolt,
and the opposing star washers are more than enough to provide bite,
and prevent the bolt from turning.

 

Cool, very interested in the test results. I was thinking if it did move/swing out, I could shorten the first bend and add another bend at the bottom of the bracket and secure it with another nut/bolt through the bed. Looks like I would have access to do that.

 

A farm jacks only weight 30 to 35 lbs, a plastic bed cleat with it's 1/4
fastener holds something like 25lbs.
3/8 to 1/2 fasteners probably will hold 50 to 55 lbs.
The 1/8 straping is super rigid and,
will probably take 175 to 200ft lbs to bend.

 

Yeah, I hear you. Just wondering if it wiggles/rattles against the bed. I hate all the noise my jack already makes....lol

 

From what I can tell, there are no rattles or vibrations from any of the mounts. I drove with my music down and vents off and had the cab/canopy windows open. Went on some dirt and over some bumps and it was all good. That's the main reason I plasti-dipped all the bends though - to reduce any metal-on-plastic vibrations.