Stereo Upgrade BASIC How To... (2nd Gen)

I've read countless pages of what's the best first step to upgrading one's stereo. Personally, I'm going to start with the head unit, a Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS. Many, make that essentially everyone, have said that doing so drastically improved the sound from the stock speakers. I know that eventually I will be adding a small sub and amp and would like to have a nice clean signal straight off the headunit without running one of those PAC things to convert the signal off the factory unit. Anyway, this is just my personal opinion and I thought I'd share. Posting pics tomorrow when install is complete. By the way, I removed the climate control knobs to remove the assembly from behind, versus prying with a flathead or putty knife as others have suggested. Simply pulled hard with my fingers after inserting them in the void left by removing the knobs. Worked flawlessly, no scratches to worry about. I have a 2013 and everything has been the same as far as location and ways to remove the HU in case anyone was wondering. Cheers

 

Great write up, subd for furure install

 

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Is there a similar thread regarding First Gen?

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Subd for good informtion and later instal

 

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Thanks for the info.

I'm now going to go for a two mile walk, no broken glass, but plenty of freezing rain. Unlike your six mile trek, my circuit will leave me right back where I started!

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I just finished installing a Kenwood KDC-BT752HD
I got it for $119 at best buy...

Some advice for Kenwood installs..
1. If you have a MEtra Axxess steering wheel controls adapter for a kenwood or a JVC there will not be a 3.5mm plug on the back for the controller...you will have to wire the blue and yellow wire from the Kenwood harness to the solid brown wire of the 3.5mm female 2 wire adapter (brown and white brown) that came with the kit. The brown/white wire just gets taped off. Also get the turbo wire adapter...saves a ton of time.

2. When you put the Din sleeve in you will need to push the 2 flat tabs on the horizontal face right behind the trip piece flat...they will prevent the trim from fitting flush by causing it to bow away from the edges towards the radio...Then use a screwdriver to bend out the triangular retention metal flaps to make it snug.

3. For removing the hazard lights just get 4 flat head screwdrivers...lay the factory radio flat, place all 4 screwdrivers in the slots around the hazard from behind and then just pop it out...


Love this radio and it sounds decent on the factory speakers...I'll be replacing those next...

 

I am sure this has been covered before, but I couldn't find anything with a quick search.

I have a 2005 Tacoma with JBL.

If I purchase a head unit out of a 2010 W/JBL, is it compatible? I would be looking to do this for the Aux ability.

I appreciate any help you can give.

 

I.just bought 2 10in subs and wanted to know what kind of box would fit these behinds back seats in my 2008 double cab?

 

I'm going stereo shopping this weekend. If the dealer won't replace my HU that just cuts out for no reason, no way is he getting my $500 to replace something that is a known problem.

Thanks to everyone for the great write-ups and pictures.

 

Search the forum.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/270069-2013-double-cab-dual-sub-box-install.html

Google for Tacoma sub enclosures, theres tons of boxes on ebay and other sites.

 

Anybody ever drop one of the four 10mm bolts that holds the head unit in and had it disappear somewhere down below? Not that I would admit to such a thing, right? And IF I were to drop said bolt, how many dash panels have gotta come off to find it?

 

OK, so I never found the bolt. I took the entire center console out and probed around with a magnetic pickup tool. No luck. I called the local dealership and asked if they had replacement bolts. They had to order one for me and I got it today. Best part...only 75 cents! The part number is 90105-A0007 in case anybody needs it. I attached a picture of the bolt and the part number.

Now if I can just get my dash kit and head unit lined up a little better. They don't seem to fit just right. Gotta do some fiddling with it. Anybody got any suggestions on how to make things fit better?

 

Or you can go to your local hardware store and pick up a M6 bolt for a nickel...

or maybe it was a M4 bolt.. I forget - it's been 3 yrs since I dropped mine. So long as you don't lose all 4, you can always take one that you still have and thread-fit it at the hardware store.

 

I didn't figure my Lowe's would have it, and the Toyota place is right down the street from my work, so it worked out fine for me.

Did you ever find your bolt?

 

How did you do the wiring into the glove box?

 

Ok so I've looked around and can't find an answer to this on any forums, I'm getting a double-din touch screen stereo for my 2010 OR DCSB soon that has back up camera capabilities. And I would want to connect my current back up camera (located on my mirror) to the new stereo screen. Has anyone done this/ know how to do this? Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Thank you all for this 'how to' topic, and your input into it. After 2 1/2 years of tolerating the stock stereo, I could no longer - and the Boxing Day sales (Canada, eh?) yielded a solution to the problem - a Kenwood DDX470 for $299.00. It's only half-installed at this point, due to the sun going down and temps dipping to sub-zero, but i did crank it on a pizza-run, and even my impaired hearing can tell the amazing difference between the stocker radio, and the Kenwood.

Y'all helped me out greatly - being the first car install i've done in better than 25 years - particularly with extracting that pesky clock/hazard switch module from the OEM surround, which had me scratching my noggin' for a good few minutes before i ran for the computer and did a search here to find the fix.

Tip for others - to defeat the tabs - 6 strips cut from a surplus window blind comes in real handy to slip in and knock the tabs back, and extract the module. Better than trying to keep 6 small screw-drivers straight

Thanks again!

 

I have done some searching and can't find this answer. It might be a foolish question, but I would rather ask it than find out the hard way. I was going to replace my stock head unit with a Alpine. I got everything, if I start, and don't finish, like for a day or 2 (due to other mess going on). I can still drive the truck with all that mess gone, right.
(no hazards, ac, stereo, hooked up). Didn't know if there was some crazy safety feature that cause the truck not to start.

 

Following the FAQ's, and watching one of the youtube videos of a Tacoma car radio install, should be sufficient to install a simple head-unit swap-out with wiring adapter harness within about an hour.

I did this on a cold January afternoon, and being my first car radio install in about 20 years.

I ran out of smokes halfway through the install, and drove to the corner store with the guts of the dash hanging out, environmental controls and clock unit removed. No warning lights noticed.

 

No there is nothing in there that needs to be hooked up for your truck to run. Sounds like you have something grounding out or wired up wrong.