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Goodbye Axle Wrap Mod

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by iDigTulsa, Aug 14, 2010.

  1. Aug 9, 2012 at 3:05 PM
    #181
    monkeyface

    monkeyface Douchebag, or just douche if we're friends

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    Does this mod reduce the articulation off-roading, the drop the rear suspension needs to keep both rear tires on the ground?
     
  2. Aug 9, 2012 at 3:57 PM
    #182
    austinramsay

    austinramsay Well-Known Member

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    Not sure about how it affects flexing but it does make the back stiffer, so im guessing it will affect it.
     
  3. Sep 18, 2012 at 4:28 PM
    #183
    Agk007

    Agk007 New Member

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    Hey everyone, i have a 2012 Taco that has the 3 leaf set. Since off the lot it squats bad on acceleration and feels kinda weak in the rear. I want to stiffen up the rear with this mod, but i also noticed some guys said it helped with shudder? my truck has the dreaded shudder on acceleration and braking. Would this mod help that as well? i can only think the shudder is exacerbated because of axle wrap since it changes driveline angles. since its mostly on acceleration i feel this vibration, would it be right to put the clamps behind the axle instead of the front since when you accelerate the axle turns up so the springs fan at the back?
     
  4. Sep 18, 2012 at 5:22 PM
    #184
    kingston73

    kingston73 Well-Known Member

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    I know this is the 1st gen section but I have a 2nd gen also and added my old set of under-leaf helper springs to the front and a set of overleaf helpers to the back. It definitely makes a difference without making the ride harsh.
     
  5. Sep 18, 2012 at 8:41 PM
    #185
    FailRated

    FailRated RTO

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    I always wondered why I didn't have the horrible axle wrap everyone always talks about and I have 1" lift blocks:eek: on stock springs:eek::eek:

    I installed similar helper springs about 6 years ago when I was pulling a heavy trailer everyday. Only difference is mine seem to be a little more vehicle specific and are mounted behind the axle and on top of the leaf spring(see photo below). They are now loosened up almost completely since I don't really tow much anymore but they are still on there and I still have zero axle wrap.
    21ec0412_7389e0ad06fae04db0ade81c131cb9869edb727e.jpg

    Mine seems to do pretty well and my shocks are too short as well.

    a3dc9fcd_5f5de85641da27792e71a1010c719e2ab282f4e6.jpg

    e494aad9_ce7d90ce0efdca1957237c013bf0700d6cf44e58.jpg

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Oct 10, 2012 at 10:18 PM
    #186
    austinramsay

    austinramsay Well-Known Member

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    thats probably your drive shaft
     
  7. Oct 12, 2012 at 9:52 PM
    #187
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Just an FYI, you never should use a flat washer with a lock washer. It defeats the purpose of a lock washer. The lock washer edges are designed to bite into the nut, and the surface you are tightening against. If you put a flat washer under the locking washer, then the lock washer will bite into the nut and the flat washer....which is simply pressed against the surface. This would allow the POTENTIAL (Re-read that word, I did not say guarantee) that a nut installed this way could loosen up.
     
  8. Oct 15, 2012 at 5:46 AM
    #188
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    best wheel bearings around! www.marionbumper2bumper.com
    Step 1, move mouse to upper right corner or browser tab
    Step 2, place cursor over little "X"
    Step 3, close eyes
    Step 4, Just say "click!"

    lol
     
  9. Feb 17, 2013 at 6:48 PM
    #189
    wannabe92z

    wannabe92z Member

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  10. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:18 PM
    #190
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    This U bolt clamping of the leaf spring pak
    is the worst bandaide idea I've read of.
    possibly even unsafe

    mfg'r designed leaf spring u bracket clamps are not U bolt clamps...
    and do not sandwich (clamp) individual leafs together.
    usually the lower U bracket is riveted to a lower leaf in the pack
    and the upper closure of that is a roller (bolt w/roller sleeve)

    individual leafs that are clamped cannot flex properly during compression.
    this can cause a bouncier ride at the rear.
    because the individual leafs in the pak are binding.

    when individual leafs in a pack are compressed...
    not only do they bend (flex)...
    but they also shift outward of the center of the leaf pack.

    installing U bolt clamps to limit leaf spring movement...
    isn't a proper correction for axle wrap.

    I had Deaver custom build me some 9lf paks...
    with consideration of the common axle wrap issue.
    What was engineered, eliminated axle wrap to nearly nonexistent.
    and with minimal compromising of the leaf paks full flexibility.

    Generally most axle wrap occurs at the forward end of the leaf pak.
    There, the leaf pak will twist and arch when under load.
    Stiffening up the forward side of the leaf pak will help
    in combating axle wrap.
    Too stiff tho' and it could degrade compression/droop travel some.

    Deavercustom9lf6_f45d7af0a38709ce21b9c5b8a1019f4ec1db7afb.jpg
     
  11. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:30 PM
    #191
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Spring clamps will work. They're not unsafe, they are cheap, and they will likely wear out your spring pack quicker than other options.

    A traction bar is the best fix for the axle wrap issue; understandably many people may not want to go to the cost and trouble of having one done up right. Unless you're working the truck hard offroad or regularly towing heavy loads, it's probably not needed.
     
  12. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:42 PM
    #192
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    ^ X2 ...but not the more common ladder type traction bars.

    more similar to this single trac bar...

    antiwrapbar_fc95d3ebf0f2eda139790d63052f7c84e1dd218b.jpg

    ^ edited for replacement pictar
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:51 PM
    #193
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Nah...you need the ladder frame type. A single bar heimed at each end won't effectively limit axle housing rotation. Putting one end on a less flexible joint (say, just a bolt and bushing) might be adequate, but will likely bind with suspension articulation.

    Ladder-type bar rigidly mounted to the axle housing with a heim/shackle connection to a frame crossmember is ideal on these trucks.
     
  14. Feb 17, 2013 at 9:00 PM
    #194
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    I typed single... meaning... only one

    Not a single bar (tube)

    yes I suppose a "A" frame could still be considered a ladder bar
    so that was a poor choice in wording on my part.

    that is why I put the picture up.
    tho' maybe not a perfect example... it brings it closer.
     
  15. Feb 18, 2013 at 4:43 AM
    #195
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Ah I gotcha now...yeah, A-frame/ladder are often used interchangeably.

    Just FYI, your picture is not showing up for the rest of us.
     
  16. Feb 18, 2013 at 10:10 AM
    #196
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    oh... didn't realize.

    how 'bout now ?

    antiwrapbar_fc95d3ebf0f2eda139790d63052f7c84e1dd218b.jpg
     
  17. Feb 18, 2013 at 2:15 PM
    #197
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    That got it. Here's mine:

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Feb 18, 2013 at 3:28 PM
    #198
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    Intake, exhaust, lift. Typical stuff.
    Wouldnt this limit down travel?
     
  19. Feb 18, 2013 at 3:47 PM
    #199
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Mine won't. I can't see the shackle setup on Dell's example to give it a yes or no. There needs to be a heim, creeper, uniball, or some kind of spherical bearing in there to allow the axle to articulate without binding.

    Here's the attachment:

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Feb 18, 2013 at 4:15 PM
    #200
    wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 Well-Known Member

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    you need to re-enforce that cross member, OEM is not built to handle that much force
     

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