Goodbye Axle Wrap Mod

Does this mod reduce the articulation off-roading, the drop the rear suspension needs to keep both rear tires on the ground?

 

Not sure about how it affects flexing but it does make the back stiffer, so im guessing it will affect it.

 

Hey everyone, i have a 2012 Taco that has the 3 leaf set. Since off the lot it squats bad on acceleration and feels kinda weak in the rear. I want to stiffen up the rear with this mod, but i also noticed some guys said it helped with shudder? my truck has the dreaded shudder on acceleration and braking. Would this mod help that as well? i can only think the shudder is exacerbated because of axle wrap since it changes driveline angles. since its mostly on acceleration i feel this vibration, would it be right to put the clamps behind the axle instead of the front since when you accelerate the axle turns up so the springs fan at the back?

 

I know this is the 1st gen section but I have a 2nd gen also and added my old set of under-leaf helper springs to the front and a set of overleaf helpers to the back. It definitely makes a difference without making the ride harsh.

 

I always wondered why I didn't have the horrible axle wrap everyone always talks about and I have 1" lift blocks on stock springs

I installed similar helper springs about 6 years ago when I was pulling a heavy trailer everyday. Only difference is mine seem to be a little more vehicle specific and are mounted behind the axle and on top of the leaf spring(see photo below). They are now loosened up almost completely since I don't really tow much anymore but they are still on there and I still have zero axle wrap.

Mine seems to do pretty well and my shocks are too short as well.

 

thats probably your drive shaft

 

Just an FYI, you never should use a flat washer with a lock washer. It defeats the purpose of a lock washer. The lock washer edges are designed to bite into the nut, and the surface you are tightening against. If you put a flat washer under the locking washer, then the lock washer will bite into the nut and the flat washer....which is simply pressed against the surface. This would allow the POTENTIAL (Re-read that word, I did not say guarantee) that a nut installed this way could loosen up.

 

Step 1, move mouse to upper right corner or browser tab
Step 2, place cursor over little "X"
Step 3, close eyes
Step 4, Just say "click!"

lol

 

Just did this mod tonight...axle wrap gone and it definitely improved the ride and throttle response. AWESOME!!!

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=401587858B8B91E1!136&authkey=!ACyflVjtTfMDY3E

 

This U bolt clamping of the leaf spring pak
is the worst bandaide idea I've read of.
possibly even unsafe

mfg'r designed leaf spring u bracket clamps are not U bolt clamps...
and do not sandwich (clamp) individual leafs together.
usually the lower U bracket is riveted to a lower leaf in the pack
and the upper closure of that is a roller (bolt w/roller sleeve)

individual leafs that are clamped cannot flex properly during compression.
this can cause a bouncier ride at the rear.
because the individual leafs in the pak are binding.

when individual leafs in a pack are compressed...
not only do they bend (flex)...
but they also shift outward of the center of the leaf pack.

installing U bolt clamps to limit leaf spring movement...
isn't a proper correction for axle wrap.

I had Deaver custom build me some 9lf paks...
with consideration of the common axle wrap issue.
What was engineered, eliminated axle wrap to nearly nonexistent.
and with minimal compromising of the leaf paks full flexibility.

Generally most axle wrap occurs at the forward end of the leaf pak.
There, the leaf pak will twist and arch when under load.
Stiffening up the forward side of the leaf pak will help
in combating axle wrap.
Too stiff tho' and it could degrade compression/droop travel some.

 

Spring clamps will work. They're not unsafe, they are cheap, and they will likely wear out your spring pack quicker than other options.

A traction bar is the best fix for the axle wrap issue; understandably many people may not want to go to the cost and trouble of having one done up right. Unless you're working the truck hard offroad or regularly towing heavy loads, it's probably not needed.

 

^ X2 ...but not the more common ladder type traction bars.

more similar to this single trac bar...



^ edited for replacement pictar

 

Nah...you need the ladder frame type. A single bar heimed at each end won't effectively limit axle housing rotation. Putting one end on a less flexible joint (say, just a bolt and bushing) might be adequate, but will likely bind with suspension articulation.

Ladder-type bar rigidly mounted to the axle housing with a heim/shackle connection to a frame crossmember is ideal on these trucks.

 

I typed single... meaning... only one

Not a single bar (tube)

yes I suppose a "A" frame could still be considered a ladder bar
so that was a poor choice in wording on my part.

that is why I put the picture up.
tho' maybe not a perfect example... it brings it closer.

 

Ah I gotcha now...yeah, A-frame/ladder are often used interchangeably.

Just FYI, your picture is not showing up for the rest of us.

 

oh... didn't realize.

how 'bout now ?

 

That got it. Here's mine:

 

Wouldnt this limit down travel?

 

Mine won't. I can't see the shackle setup on Dell's example to give it a yes or no. There needs to be a heim, creeper, uniball, or some kind of spherical bearing in there to allow the axle to articulate without binding.

Here's the attachment:

 

you need to re-enforce that cross member, OEM is not built to handle that much force