Calling all Virginians (Tidewater area)

Prerunner Pride

 

DIBS?

 

I'm interested in the Hi Lift... and if your going to do something with the tires......

 

Do you need help re sealing that drivers side light?

 

I've been considering adding a 3" body lift to my 3" suspension lift and I've had different feedback. Some think its ok and others are completely against it. I was hoping on putting 35's on and without the body lift it will take a lot of cutting including the fender wells and I really dont want to mess with the fenders other than the fender wells. I really like the look of the 35's on yottamatt's and since then have been wanting them on mine. Why are some against the body lift? Is there something Im not thinking about. I've been told the ride will be the exact same as it now and other than being higher there's no difference. Is this true?

 

Are you 100% SURE you want 35's? Is there a specific reason you want them over, say, 295's?

 

I really like the Mickey Thompson STZ and the next size after the LT285 which I currently have is the LT315.

 

The only reason I asked is because I REALLY wanted 35's, and then when I finally had all the work done, the guys at Eastern Truck and Acc. in VA Beach talked me out of them. I have a 6" Pro Comp on 295's and I love it. I was worried about too much wheel well, and I was stuck on the 35's.

After the showed me the exact size differences I would gain/lose compared to the BS cutting and welding that had to be done so that it didn't look like a hack job, I went with the 295's.

But if you really want those specific tires and that's your only option, go for the gold and get what you want.

EDIT: You should call them and ask for Chad. He can elaborate 10 times better than I can on the pros and cons. Dude knows his shit, and he's a very technical guy, which I liked a lot.

 

I wasnt aware they would have to cut to put the 35's on other than the cab mount chop

 

Right, but I guess it depends on how good/bad you want the chop to look. I've seen some pretty hacked ones, some that came out decent, and some that were professionally done and you couldn't really tell, but had to pay for. I really didn't want to cut anything on mine which is why I stayed away from it.
YMMV

 

I appreciate the advise. I just can't figure out whats wrong with a body lift. I really hate being such a non mechanic . lol

 

Call Eastern, man. They are happy to give out good information and they have the best people in town. I know I sound like a salesman for them, but I'm not. I'm just a super happy customer, and you'll be glad you spent some time talking to them too.

 

lol thanks. I've been speaking with Chris and I believe Randy. I've been told they do really good work and thats what I want with whatever I have completed. Thanks again.

 

Awesome! No problem, hope it all works out. Post pics!

 

Mornin peeps


House has been sucking up all of my time. Haven't had heat since beginning of January, and been waiting for almost a month for my new gas pack unit and duct work to get installed. Supposedly starting Thursday.

Any recommendations for someone to refinish hardwood floors?

 

You can do it yourself if you have the patience. Home Depot rent all the necessary equipment.

Very simple thing to do, lots of dust and you need to move everything out of the rooms your sanding for 2-4 days.

Day 1 - moving EVERYTHING out, removing quarter round moulding, then sanding. Sand with a drum sander in various grits, depending on the severity of the scouring on your floor. Snap a photo of the worst area and either post it here or take it to Home Depot. Then we can decide what the best starting grit is. - 60-80-120

Day 2 - Sanding with a square vibrating sander. LARGE one that Home Depot rents. - 120-220 Vaccume and damp cloth to clean the whole floor starting at the far end, working your way out of the room. Fans to help dry. Do the quarter round moulding too. STAIN. Pick the color and again, start t the far corner working your way out with either rollers or rags. I use only a single coat of stain. Most modern stain needs only a singe coat.

Day 3 - Some more sanding is recommended by most places.- 220 A stick and scouring pads. BUT I never did this step. Now that the stain is dry, Start at the far corner and wipe and or vaccume the floor. Do the quarter round too. Important* Do not shake the sealer/ Urethane/ or whatever clearcoat you pick to seal the floors. Roller or a rag again to apply it. When it is fully dry, read the container for proper drying times, sand again with 220 for a second coat. By dinner time, or slightly later, the floor should be ready for the second/ final coat and should cure overnight.

Day 4 - Check to see if everything dried right. Replace moulding, then the rest of the items from the room.

When I was doing this for a living, I kept some UV flood lights and space heaters to help the drying and curing times. Most of the time the quarter round moulding would get replaced with NEW bought. Most of the time people do not remove it or if they do it is broken due to inexperience and impatience. If you do replace it, you will need either a finishing hand saw to cut your angles or an electric circular saw to do the same thing.

Finishing nails, nail guns, and wood putty are the right way to do this though rarely done in this manner anymore. Alternatively hammer and a set punch. But still, most do not take this step.

Thats pretty much how it goes. A long weekend is a great time to do these things. This past weekend would have been a great time to do it.

 

Heat might be an issue so I would wait til after your install is done, or use some space heaters. A constant temp is what you really need.

Also, We would use clear tarp/ plastic and tape off the windows, and entrances to the rooms.

Removing the Doors from their hinges if they are closets, or non house exits, makes for an easier time while doing this.

A small Orbital or vibrating square hand sander helps in the small corners and edging.

 

This is where time vs cost is weighed. Thousands of dollars is what a normal business would charge to do this. If you have some paid vacation, might be worth cashing in a business week of it to do this.

 

Hundreds to do yourself, vs the thousands a business would charge. It is really hard to mess this up. Taking it slow and easy with the drum/ belt sander is the best advice I can give you. Do overlapping strokes like you would when vaccuming a floor. Also, cleaning really well so no dust gets in the sealant is another one. Wear a hairnet and booties.

Do not forget the Chemical resistant gloves too. I like to use 4 pairs of latex gloves on my hands at a time and then 2 pairs of nitrile gloves. That way as I shred one pair, I peel it off and have another pair underneath. The chems cause the gloves to "Balloon" as I call it. They kind of get loose wherever the stain touches them.

Having a shop vac handy is a must. Don't rush it.

HOME DEPOT trick - For renting, if you can do it at night, and actually WORK at night in your house. It will cost you less. Rent for an hour or two around closing time, and it overlaps to the next day! So you get the whole night for free!

You do not need to rent both sanders at the same time. You cant possibly use them all at the same time.

When a business is doing this. They will have a guy or two in each room sanding with the drum sanders to make it all go faster. So if the wife and friends want in on your action and you trust them. Might be worth renting a second one to make it go faster.

 

If skygear backs out, ill take the lift. Ive had a few lined up that fell thru