AR-15 BS Thread

Just dropped my AR-15 off to get some goodies added to it. Expensive goodies but goodies non the less. Can't wait until she is finished.

 

I would let the gunsmith do it. You would have to take the fixed front sight off and that's attached to the gas block. So if that gets misaligned its no good. So they will at least do it right and its cheap.

 

Just found some TulAmmo .223 for $9.99. Is it good ammo and should I buy?

 

That's what I was thinking. We will see what happens...

 

It's steel cased like wolf, before the scare you could find it for 4-5$ a box.
It depends on if you're gun likes it, some guns run it fine, some don't.

 

doubled in price! Ill give it a try and see what happens.

 

wolf is 5.27 a box here at walmart...just dont leave a round chambered on a hot cylinder the polymer could case the case to stick..but other than that you should have any problems

 

They dont use lacquer on Tula. This is a myth, please stop spreading it.
The reason for stuck cases with steel cased ammo is the steel does not expand like brass, carbon builds up around the chamber and causes build up. Then the rounds get stuck. Take a butane torch to a lacquer case and the lacquer coating will not melt.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5ZB3UfG960

 

Thanks for that info.

 

I've been trying to find Tula or wolf but that's also hard to get.

 

Hey All,

I'm currently in the final stages of an AR-15 build, and the last thing I have to do is assemble the upper and have a muzzle break pinned and welded to a 14.5 inch barrel (to follow all NFA rules).

I'm in the Ft. Benning / Columbus area. Does anyone know a quality armorer or gunsmith that I can use to have this work done? I've already sent an email to the Army Marksmanship Unit, but haven't heard anything back yet. I'm just trying to find all the options.

I know how to weld (TIG, MIG, acetylene, ARC). Has someone on here pinned and welded their own muzzle break? Perhaps I should just try and find a welding outfit that will let me rent their equipment?

Thanks for all help and advice.

Hunter

Sorry for the bad iPhone picture



Upper:
Vultor MUR-1 Upper
BCM Gunfighter Charging Handle
Noveske Afghan 5.56MM Barrel - 14.5" (special 1.9" gas block seat)
SureFire MB556K muzzle break
Adams Arms Mid-Length Piston Conversion Kit
Samson 9 inch quad rail
FailZero 5.56MM Bolt

Lower:
Noveske Gen II Lower
Noveske H-buffer
Magpul Ambidextrous Sling Adaptor
Magpul STR Mil-Spec Carbine Stock
CMMG AR-15 Lower Parts Kit
Troy Industries Ambidextrous Safety
Geissele SSA-E Two Stage Trigger
Magpul MIAD Mission Adaptable Grip
Magpul B.A.D. Lever

Add-on's:
Troy Folding Battle Sight Set
Magpul AFG2 - Angled Fore Grip
EOTech EXPS3-2
SureFire X300 LED WeaponLight
SureFire XT07 Remote Dual Switch for WeaponLights
Magpul MS3 sling
SureFire SOCOM556-SB Sound Suppressor (eventually)

 

Alright guys I have a complete Bravo Company mid length rifle. I just received the upper last weekend and went out to shoot it this weekend and ran into a problem with it cycling the next round into the chamber. I narrow it down to something in the BCG by switching parts with a buddies rifle. When I go to shoot the next round it does click if that helps. We were going to switch out bolts and so on but ran out of ammo. Anybody have an idea what it might be? It is a Bravo Company Auto BCG.

 

is the gas key loose?

 

no i checked that as well

 

All you have to do is blind drill it and use part of the shank portion of a drill bit or a dowel pin and pin it. (Do not use a coat hanger) Weld over the pin, then make it look good (Grind it smooth, drop of cold blue). Another couple of options are to weld all the way around the muzzle device, or silver solder it. Any weld shop should tack it in EXTREMELY cheaply.

That existing upper, doesn't look 16"...

 

Silver solder paste. Clean areas to be soldered, smear the paste on, screw on device on and heat it up. It will not screw off there again unless heat melts the solder. Easy and fast and no drilling.

 

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely look into this - expand my search to machine shops / welding outfits that may have done this before.

The rifle pictured is loosely assembled with no barrel (seen in forefront of rifle). There really is no existing upper, all that is seen is a 9 inch rail loosely attached to the barrel nut, loosely screwed onto the upper, and the SureFire X300 ultra attached to the side rail. I was doing mock-ups of where I wanted to place everything on the rail.

 

Have you done this before? This seems like a pretty easy route to take, as I've silver soldered a few things before (I made a stainless steel American Flag belt buckle that I wear every day). I used sliver "sticks" like regular soldering (or gas welding) thought, never just paste. How much heat is required? For example, could I buy a propane torch at Home Depot for this project, or do I need an acetylene torch? If I ever decide to break down this assembly, would all I need to do is heat the solder and put a wrench on the muzzle break to work it loose?

Thanks for all of your help!

 

I have used it once myself to attach a flash hider back in the ban days. Propane/butane torch works fine. Yes heat it up and remove with wrench.

http://www.ottofrei.com/Silver-Paste-Solder-Extra-Easy.html