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Which CAI would you pick?

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by TacoDawgfan, Feb 11, 2013.

?

Which would you choose?

Poll closed Mar 13, 2013.
  1. AFE

    59 vote(s)
    52.7%
  2. Volant

    23 vote(s)
    20.5%
  3. AEM Brute Force

    6 vote(s)
    5.4%
  4. K&N 77

    11 vote(s)
    9.8%
  5. Airaid

    5 vote(s)
    4.5%
  6. K&N 63

    7 vote(s)
    6.3%
  7. RPB

    1 vote(s)
    0.9%
  1. Feb 22, 2013 at 4:24 PM
    #41
    TacoDawgfan

    TacoDawgfan [OP] Hunker Down You Hairy Dawg!

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    5100's at 1.75, Rear leaf TSB, Moto Metal 951 16x8, BFG TKO2 265/75/16, AFe Stage 2 CAI w/pro dry filter, Kenwood DDX374BT installed with Idatalink Maestro kit, Access Loredo tonneau cover, N-Fab steps, Tinted windows, EGR in channel vent visors, UGA drink coasters in the front cup holders, and a Graco car seat in the back seat
    Sitting on my doorstep this evening. :headbang:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Feb 23, 2013 at 4:39 PM
    #42
    carcharias

    carcharias Giggiddy what what

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    Kings all-around w/ 700lb coils, Dakar leaf pack, TC uca's, DO single hoop bumper, BAMF bolt-on sliders w/ kickouts, Rigid 20" e-series spot/flood, aFe pro-dry, BFG KM2 255/85/16, silver TRD FJ wheels, WARN M8000-s, Access LE, Grillcraft, BAMF lightbar, BAMF rear dif skid, BAMF LCA skids, window tint, Wet Okoles, WeatherTech floorliners, Silverstar lights, led dome lights, Redline Tuning hood struts, center console lock mod, mag-lite mod, extra d-rings, re-routed exhaust, ATO skids, ATO Hi-Lift mounts, pipe tailgate lock, seatbelt alarm delete, wheel/spare locks, Viper 5901, LoJack... WISHLIST: a golden canary that poops platinum
    ^^ AWESOME!!! Same one I would've gone with!
     
  3. Feb 24, 2013 at 3:56 PM
    #43
    TacoDawgfan

    TacoDawgfan [OP] Hunker Down You Hairy Dawg!

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    5100's at 1.75, Rear leaf TSB, Moto Metal 951 16x8, BFG TKO2 265/75/16, AFe Stage 2 CAI w/pro dry filter, Kenwood DDX374BT installed with Idatalink Maestro kit, Access Loredo tonneau cover, N-Fab steps, Tinted windows, EGR in channel vent visors, UGA drink coasters in the front cup holders, and a Graco car seat in the back seat
    It's installed!

    [​IMG]

    Sounds mean at wot. I had read it was loud all the time. Not so far, seems the same until I get on it. But I haven't had much time driving yet.

    After the install my ABS and a VSC light was on. :confused: What the hell does that have to do with disconnecting the battery and maf sensor?

    I did the maintenance reset and it's off for now. They did come back at one point but when I started the truck again they were off. :confused: Is this normal? Maybe it needs time to reset the cpu?
     
  4. Feb 24, 2013 at 4:14 PM
    #44
    TacoDawgfan

    TacoDawgfan [OP] Hunker Down You Hairy Dawg!

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    5100's at 1.75, Rear leaf TSB, Moto Metal 951 16x8, BFG TKO2 265/75/16, AFe Stage 2 CAI w/pro dry filter, Kenwood DDX374BT installed with Idatalink Maestro kit, Access Loredo tonneau cover, N-Fab steps, Tinted windows, EGR in channel vent visors, UGA drink coasters in the front cup holders, and a Graco car seat in the back seat
    Also wanted to ask of the AFe owners, whats with the insert for the front of the air box? Did ya'll use this? I put it in being that I don't want to get water up into the air box. I just didn't understand why it's made that way?
     
  5. Feb 24, 2013 at 10:37 PM
    #45
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    Nabisco the kid
    In ur toolbox
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    not so low, not so slow 2006 6 lug
    stockish
    My experience, and what I seen and felt via ultraguage and the horribly innacurate butt dyno:

    Silicone plug "out" the intake : louder (I hated it when passing), NO INCREASE in intake temps registered from ultraguage....I "felt" like I lost some low end grunt.

    Silicone plug "in" intake: slightly quieter (ears thanked me)....same intake temps as before (going through same area at same speed within 2 minutes of the pass I did with the plug "out").........I "felt" like I got the low end grunt back (its slight and only off the line, and I may be wrong...I can't PROVE any gains/losses due to no dyno).


    What I have heard: ..........with the port open "plug out" the thing causes air to swirl around the intake filter in a kind of cyclone effect. That came from Gadget iirc.

    I believe I also seen somewhere (dyno tested it was said) that the port open may bring an additional 5hp....I honestly find this hard to believe.

    All said...... I CANNOT SAY FOR CERTAIN THERE ARE ANY GAINS OR LOSES EITHER WAY DUE TO NEVER HAVE BEEN ON A DYNO.
    Please understand that....my "thoughts" on the low end grunt are just that, they are not proven and I cannot say the butt dyno is a reliable diagnostic tool at all....that's the problem with subjective claims, and I have zero problem admitting it.

    Temp control was done using objective data via ultraguage....I checked temps with port open, port closed, port open WITH WASHER FLUID TANK REMOVED just as comedic value to see if ANY temp changes would happen due to the placement of the port and the resivoir.

    While doing said temp checks, I also did testing from the afe vs bone stock....I've put these intakes in a few times and the data was simply abient temps vs intake temps via ultraguage and temp/compass readout........that said, I seen ZERO temp changes from stock to afe....they BOTH draw air from the same exact location which makes ANY claims of cooler air coming in with the afe laughable when I see any posts like that.

    When I damn near gave away the afe stage 2 Si, I didn't notice any change when I went back to stock as far as feel or temp changes....just much quieter.

    Afe does eliminate some kinks/bends, so there MAY be some benefit there, but it certainly cannot/will not draw air any cooler than stock....its impossible due to the simple fact of its design/location.

    Im not bashing any intake here, don't read this post wrong.....as long as ur happy, that's all that matters...its ur money not ours. I just wanted to post my findings since the question was asked about the "plug" deal on the afe.

    I apologize for any typos.....I just woke up and im on my phone

    ~brock
     
  6. Feb 25, 2013 at 3:13 AM
    #46
    TacoDawgfan

    TacoDawgfan [OP] Hunker Down You Hairy Dawg!

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    5100's at 1.75, Rear leaf TSB, Moto Metal 951 16x8, BFG TKO2 265/75/16, AFe Stage 2 CAI w/pro dry filter, Kenwood DDX374BT installed with Idatalink Maestro kit, Access Loredo tonneau cover, N-Fab steps, Tinted windows, EGR in channel vent visors, UGA drink coasters in the front cup holders, and a Graco car seat in the back seat
    Wow, thanks for all the input. So far my Ultragauge not only hasn't showed any lower temps, it's actually been a bit higher. :confused: But yesterday was a warmer day than we've been having lately.

    As far as being "your money" I won this unit from the Autoanything thread so no big deal for me there. But after what I've seen so far I wouldn't go out a spend the $350 for it.

    I'm running a stock exhaust. It's always been my understanding that you need both together to benefit more from the both of them. More air in, need more air out. May do an exhaust later. Not sure yet.
     
  7. Feb 25, 2013 at 3:31 AM
    #47
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    Nabisco the kid
    In ur toolbox
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    not so low, not so slow 2006 6 lug
    stockish
    Lol b careful it starts out like this......

    Then u get the want for headers, y pipe, and an exhaust :D

    Then u go to electronic goods.....

    Say goodbye to ur wallet.

    Enjoy the trip tho!

    I'm off to bed......

    Keep in mind, at 45+ u should see intake temps that are same as ambient, whether stock or afe......u gotta move at more than a 25mph city speed tho iirc.......i have had urd for a few yrs sorry....watch ur speed and how it correlates to temp drops.
     
  8. Feb 25, 2013 at 4:31 AM
    #48
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    FWIW, the XR guys have tested intake air temps, and see the best intake temps from use of a Volant scoop.

    The oem intake may be cold air in theory, but in use it does pick up some amount of heated air from the road below the fenderwell, but more importantly any air exhausting the hot engine compartment does enter the fenderwell.

    The coldest intake air is often the air forward of the radiator similar to a URD setup or the intermediate Volant scoop with the CAI oem fenderwell intake port capped.

    PK
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2013
  9. Feb 25, 2013 at 6:30 AM
    #49
    kingston73

    kingston73 Well-Known Member

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    Looks good. As for the lights, how long did you have the battery disconnected? I just installed a volant myself and when I first started the truck I had forgotten to disconnect the battery. It was idling pretty rough and unevenly, so I left the battery disconnected for 30 minutes. That fixed the rough idle and I haven't gotten any lights of any sort for the first 50 miles of driving.

    As for the higher intake temps, are you sure everything is sealed up correctly? When I first got the volant installed I hadn't sealed the fender opening well and it was drawing in air from the engine compartment. I used some weather stripping around the opening to seal it up and now it's about 5 degrees higher than ambient, which is a little lower than what I was seeing with stock.
     
  10. Feb 25, 2013 at 6:40 AM
    #50
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    Lost me.......if bone stock can draw ambient temps measured with ultraguage or scanguage, then how can the volant skewp possibly draw cooler air than that?

    Ambient is ambient right?

    :confused:
     
  11. Feb 25, 2013 at 6:43 AM
    #51
    NicksRig

    NicksRig Well-Known Member

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    Blacked out Skid plate, block heater, bug deflector, blacked out headlights, tinted fronts, OME 3" lift, Toytec AAL, Revenge-Fab Sliders, K&N Air Filter
  12. Feb 25, 2013 at 7:00 AM
    #52
    SoCaltaco65

    SoCaltaco65 Well-Known Member

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    uum, you do realize that the stock intake system is a Cold Air Intake?
     
  13. Feb 25, 2013 at 7:12 AM
    #53
    kingston73

    kingston73 Well-Known Member

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    What's that got to do with anything? The OP got one for free, why be a d**k about it?
     
  14. Feb 25, 2013 at 8:51 AM
    #54
    SoCaltaco65

    SoCaltaco65 Well-Known Member

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    I'm not being a dick, the stock system is a cai.
     
  15. Feb 25, 2013 at 12:18 PM
    #55
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    There are several documented results where it seems the OEM cold air intake is not so cold after all. Nothing I have read, except your quote above indicates that the oem intake can match ambient. The closest match is systems pulling air from in front of the radiator.

    I noticed fairly respectable drops from removing any inlet air at the fender and grabbed air forward of the radiator.

    Just saying, the fenderwell picks up radiated heat from the road, and engine compartment heated air bleeding out into the fenderwells.

    So in this case, the factory CAI is better than some installs but can be better to gain lower inlet temps.

    XR underground deals with this a bunch in many topics / posts. Since a lot of the XR's are supercharged, they try to get the inlet air as cool as practical. Most see double digit temp drops, with faster temp drops after a long idle.

    PK
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2013
  16. Feb 25, 2013 at 1:20 PM
    #56
    SoCaltaco65

    SoCaltaco65 Well-Known Member

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    Why not run a bigger then needed air-air inner cooler ( secondary)? Are they really running that much boost? Radiation from the road?? I'm assuming you mean while the vehicle is at rest?
     
  17. Feb 25, 2013 at 2:24 PM
    #57
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.

    At rest it is obvious with the temp increasing.

    Even my own truck saw reduced temps while moving just by changing to the scoop.

    Some of these guys are getting respectable PSI from the superchargers via different pulleys. These are trucks with 400 or so HP. The higher inlet temp have caused some concerns on some trucks.

    Maybe it's just semantics of words, yes the Tacoma does have a CAI from the factory, unfortunately it also pulls in warm engine compartment air, heated brake air and radiant heat from the road along with the cold air.

    PK
     
  18. Feb 25, 2013 at 4:02 PM
    #58
    TacoDawgfan

    TacoDawgfan [OP] Hunker Down You Hairy Dawg!

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    I guess it's still reading the same temps as before the CAI. Seemed high at one point but today it seemed about normal. I did seal it up good, that is the reason it took me longer than it should have to install. That damn seal that goes on the air box to seal it to the hole from the oem was a pita. That thing wouldn't stay in place for me to put the box in. After taking a break to get on the computer to see if there was any info about this that would help but found nothing. Went back out and kept fighting it and it finally set in place for me. But I was sure to make it seal up, I wanted it done right. And I also seem to be seeing a +5 temp which is slightly lower than stock, was seeing about +6 for the most part.

    This didn't bother me, I wasn't really planning a cai myself. If I hadn't won it I probably wouldn't buy one. At least if I did it would be down the road as I have much more I'd rather spend the money on.
     
  19. Feb 27, 2013 at 2:22 PM
    #59
    Chas of MRT

    Chas of MRT Total Automotive Performance

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    I think Airaid is the way to go. Its what I have on my tundra and will be getting it for my new tacoma!
     
  20. Feb 28, 2013 at 6:14 AM
    #60
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. My experience has been that there was only about a 5-6 degree difference between the stock setup and the the URD (which was the coldest I've seen).

    My setups, all measured after moving at least 40-50mph for a few minutes to cool and stabilize the IAT readings, readings between the SG IAT temp and the ambient temp from the O/H console:
    • Stock: +5-6 degrees
    • Volant scoop plumbed into stock airbox: same as stock, +5-6 degrees
    • aFe Stage II SI: +3-4 degrees
    • URD: +0-1
    Anyway, from my experience the temp diffs from stock to URD are only about 6 degrees. IMHO, hardly worth the discussion for a NA setup.
     

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