'Redneck" lower control arm - LCA Bushing Press

I still have a couple cut off wheel blades from your recommendation. Unfortunately, my grinder was too big to fit in there to cut through, even with all the safety guards removed Is yours a 6" wheel?

 

Nope. I had to rotate the LCA to get a full cut.

 

Awesome write-up. I love shit like this!

 

Just read the first part smart idea and Subd for future reference

 

Eh, oh well... by the time the truck needs a second set of bushings, it'll be someone else's problem (and they should press out next time cause I actually lubed them on the way in. Toyota, take note )

 

Thread revival.
What are some of the things I should try before cutting the camber bolt? I took my truck into get an alignment and they said one of my camber bolts were seized....

 

TRY N LOOSEN IT YOURSELF
SPRAY IT WITH PB BLASTER
TRY A LIL HEAT IF THAT DONT WORK

 

^this. Mark your tabs so you can crank on them and get them back to where they were.

 

Sadly, if it's a true "Nor-east coast" related seized bushing with its bolt rusted fast to the inner sleeve, (commonly induced by DOT road calcium), I'll bet you all a paycheck nothing but cutting will cure it. It doesn't hurt to try the other three, but it's not likely to yield favorable results.

Be careful if you apply big heat... the risk of unrelated non suspension related damage is real. I've cut around more frames, gas tanks and the like over the years of issuing inspection certificates in the rusted out center of this state (PA) than a little bit. I'm no rookie and know full well what the accurate application of heat coupled with pneumatics can break loose. Tacoma LCA's and their mounts? No thanks, it's just too tight to do it proper with an O2 flame.

 

Thanks. I'll definitely try these.

I'm guessing a heat gun won't get it nearly hot enough?

 

I heat gun will not do anything. I also would not try a torch unless you are committed to replacing the bushings. Keep in mind you're applying heat to a rubber bushing. They take a LOT to melt (I burned mine out so believe me, they do not easily melt) but rubber can only take so much.

Before I actually committed to replacing my bushings, I marked the LCA from the cabs to the frame and hit them with PB Blaster, a wrench and whacked the end of the bolt with a hammer to see if they would break loose. I did this every day for a week. Once I realized they weren't budging, I just replaced them.

 

I'll definitely give this a try when I have the time.

 

X2... I tried mine for over a week. Then said F this and cut them off.

 

I saw another TW member use a ball joint press to remove the bushings. Cheaper than buying a socket, if you don't have one already. You can rent them from Autozone.

I'll be replacing my bushings soon. I'll let you know if it works.

 

Great thinking. Saving money by doing thinga yourself is the best. It allows you to buy much cooler things for your truck. Very detailed write up.

 

That was XXXX, aka misc, formerly known as...

The press may or may not work. The problem is the bushings rust solid to the LCA sleeve and won't budge. That leaves you with the option of cutting the bushings out, being careful not to gouge the LCA sleeve.

 

just did this... used this method. I think i had a 36mm socket and then another 32 on the other side and pushed just the rubber out after heating both sides with a butane torch. It left some rubber and i heated it, sprayed it with some brake cleaner and wire wheeled the sleeves clean so i could press in my new poly ones. The instructions said to leave the sleeves in, which worked out because i dont think i could have removed them anyway.

That was my first experience installing poly bushings - WEAR GLOVES with that lube that comes with it. That's some sticky stuff! not fun. I just hope after all that they dont squeek.

I only got to the driver's side upper today. lower has a seized rear alignment bolt. F.

I will probably take it to someone who can throw on the bushings faster than I can and align it as well. might have a shop put the other side on... not sure yet. Maybe I'll just wait until it cools off here. 103 in the garage today around 2pm.

 

I got mine done, shortly after my last post. I used the ball joint press to push out the rubber portion of the bushing, then used an air chisel to get the sleeve out. An exhaust ripper bit works well. I suppose you could do it by hand, but it would be a PITA!

FYI: Never-seize the hell out of everything as you assemble. As you have already noticed, the factory phosphate coating doesn't last.

 

Since this got bumped, don't bother using neverseize when you put things back together, it doesn't last. You need to use grease. One of my bolt seized again, about a year after they were replaced. I put so much freakin neverseize on there when I installed them it wasn't even funny and one of them still seized. I'll break it loose (hopefully) and grease the ever living shit out of it for next time.