OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Yes, but.......

On the left the CV shaft goes directly into the needle bearing.

On the right the CV shaft goes directly into a ball bearing, not a needle bearing, located at the end of the ADD tube. In order to get to the needle bearing on the right, the whole ADD tube is removed (it is held to the diff by four Etorx (E14) bolts). Once off there is a stub shaft the rides directly in the needle bearing. The procedure is then the same as for the left. The ECGS bushing can be installed the same way on the right.

I can tell you that the job is not a lot of fun. And, I probably would not encourage someone to go in there routinely. The right side does not take the same type of side load that the left does. I point out my experience because, as I have said before in this thread, I now believe that many or most of the 2nd gen. Tacoma front differentials are bad.

Having said that, if you have notions of digging into the right side I would suggest that you first call Chase at ECGS and ask him if he sees a high percentage of needle bearing scoring on the right side stub shaft. He is aware of my case but I might be one of the rare ones.

 

So I read through a bunch of this thread and didnt see it, but when you guys replaced this, were you able to get the cv out of the diff by just unbolting the spindle from the upper and lower control arms? I remember when I put my lift on the CV wanted to come out of the diff, but I didnt let it come out so I dont know forsure if it would. I am probably going to be doing ucas and this bushing at the same time, so the less work I have to do the happier I will be. Hopefully this makes sense.
Thanks.
Also looking for the puller tool, and install tool if anyone has them.

 

So I have to pull the entire CV out of the spindle to get it out?
I see the pics now, I get it.

 

At the dealer now..... This is not going good. Just explained this shit and the retarded service rep said it might be a bad 4x4 switch... FML

 

PSU Taco85, the bottom picture is the right side stub shaft I have referenced many times in this thread. It rides in an identical needle bearing as the left side (you can see the needle bearing back in the dark recess of your pic if you look close enough). I pulled the right side and replaced the needle bearing with the ECGS bushing, and also replaced that stub shaft. This stub shaft is outrageously over priced.

Is this your pic or one you found? If its yours, use some magnification and look at the bearing running surface on that stub shaft. Mine was all gouged up by scoring created by the needles and the damage was clearly visible with the naked eye.

By the way, NO! the right side stub shaft shown does not take the same clip as the left side CV shaft -- it takes a different "Snap Clip". Beats me as to why. They pretty much look the same.

 

Add me to the list.

Tacoma 2006, open diff, 4x4, 6cyl 4 litres, 80K miles.

Growling/humming sounds seems to coming from the center, between two seats. I can feel it on pedals and floor. We can hear it intermittently between 30mph to 60mph. It becomes louder after a while.

Both wheel bearings are new, I thought it was only coming from there, there's another noise that is still present even with new bearings. Older bearing were shot anyway, there were a rough feeling.

I just ordered a bushing with a removal tool. Great service from ECGS even if I live in Quebec, CANADA. Ordering process went flawlessy.

I have pilot bearing puller, but I didn't want to take a chance, since it look like that there isn't much room remove the bearing. I don't want to end up to open the diff ! So, 60$ in a tool is well spent.

Waiting for the parts and I'll do the replacement myself and thank you very much to all for tips how to do the job with good description and pictures.

Will post pictures of the entire process if you want.

 

So let me ask you guys. I am getting ready to put a FOX coilover kit in my 2013 DCSB with 300 miles on it. Will i have problems with this install?

(Front)
2.5 Factory Series Coil-over IFP Coil-over Shock

(The Rears)
2.0 Performance Series IFP Smooth Body Shock

 

Almost anyone that us lifting a 2nd gen is having this problem. Even stick trucks are having the problem just add the bushing when you do the lift then ya only have to be in there once

 

Stock not stick haha

 

Did you use some special tool to remove ball joints from the spindle, was it hard to use a light hammer (with a a bolt still present on the ball joint, but loosened) to pop it out from spindle with lights taps ? Or do we need a pitman or "ball joint separator" ?

I didn't start yet, but I don't want to miss any needed tools.

 

The Team leader dude didnt relay any of the info I told him about the vibration. It was so busy that the actual tech, who claimed he couldnt replicate the noise, got into an argument with me and said good luck getting it fixed with "All the Modifications you've done on that truck". Tech blammed the lift. Supervisor apologized for the tech being rude. Gonna go back during the week and do a ride along with the service supervisor. Hopefully I will get a better answer other than "Its because of your lift."

 

^^

 

I guess i will buy that too. Thanks for the response.

 

Why bother "fixing" it? The new bearing is just going to get fucked like the previous one. Either put the bushing in or just leave it alone.

 

Should I pop this bushing in for the hell of it on a 13 before I lift it (billies 1.75) or just wait for the vibe? What has the install time been for you weekend/moderate level wrenchers? What do I need to complete the install, any special tools to tear everything down just to get to the damn needle bearing? Finally (lol sorry about all the "?'s") what tools do I need to order with the bushing... it is listed as bushing and tool but then has the option of adding the install and removal tool?

Love you all

 

I'd lift it and wait for the vibe. I ran lifted for 2 years, including a LOT of wheeling, without an issue. Some people never have it.

When I regeared I had ECGS throw it in there anyway just because they already had the diff open.

 

I may do that, I am just scared to lift it now and may want to take preventative action... I still owe alot of dough on her and it rides so beautifully

 

If you're worried about shit happening don't even bother with the lift. Once you venture away from stock you're solving your own problems.

Modding has a lot of benefits, but there are prices to pay. Things will behave differently. You will have to maintain your vehicle more. Some parts will wear out faster. Mileage will suffer. Etc.

 

I have called Toyota directly they are not admitting to anything and I'm pretty sure telling their dealerships not too either your probably going to have to bite it and have the ecgs bushing put in yourself. It's relatively cheap just save receipts if Toyota corporate ever admits their fault. Toyata is probably just installing bushings in the new trucks anyway lol I bet ecgs made a deal with them.

 

2007 Dbl cab 4x4 Sport. Bought at 32K, always had the vibration but it was intermittent. Now at 44K and it seems consistent at 50-70mph. At 70 seems to dissipate somewhat.

I have a platinum warranty till 5/30. I'm making an appt. We'll see what they say.
Will update. BTW my dealership is very good if that means anything, probably not.