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Car issue, i would like input...

Discussion in 'General Automotive' started by 05RedTaco, Feb 26, 2013.

  1. Feb 26, 2013 at 4:06 PM
    #1
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    I was randomly checking oil on my wife's 2007 Toyota Camry AT with 2.4L I6 and 115k miles. It has been about 5500 miles since last oil change and I when pulled the dipstick it was BARELY reading on the bottom! I poured 1.5 quarts of oil in and the dipstick was reading little below the low mark. So in 5500miles the 2.4L drank 2.5 quarts of oil! The 2.4L holds 4.5 quarts with oil filter change. It has always been drinking oil since the day i got it and of course after the warranty is up it got progressively worse.

    I have NO oil leaks and NO signs of blown head gasket. Oil is not milky just regular oil color.

    I did some research on the 2.4L and it turns out that there is a TSB out for it. The TSB is for oil consumption caused by bad piston rings. So I assume thats whats wrong with my engine. The TSB only covers the engine under 60000miles or 7 year warranty, so I am screwed on that since the camry has 115k miles.

    Now I am skilled when it comes to a car, but I wont undertake putting piston rings in. I don't have tools to do such a job.

    I think I have three options;

    1, Change oil, detail the car and sell the car. I owe $9600 on it. I "should" be able to get that private party. If I can't sell I will be forced to go with option #2 or #3,

    2, Keep eye on oil level and keep driving it until motor gives out. It can go a long while or a short while. No one knows how bad it actually is and if the cylinder walls are scored.

    3, Repair. There are three options on undertaking this;

    a, Get engine from junkyard and replace it. I can do labor by myself and cost of engine is $1700-$1900 from local junkyard. This option i like the least, because I have no idea if the engine I will get will have the same issue, since the bad piston rings are documented and known issue.

    b, Have current engine rebuilt. That would probably be around the same maybe little cheaper, IF I do pulling and installing the engine myself.

    c, Buy a rebuilt engine. Most expensive option. I saw rebuilt engines from $2300-$2500.

    One thing to mention is that I don't have money laying around to cover option #3...

    Let me know what would you guys do...
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
  2. Feb 26, 2013 at 4:19 PM
    #2
    jfr02

    jfr02 Well-Known Member

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    That engine will last for ever.Check oil weekly add as needed and enjoy a fantastic car for another 100k.I see these engines everyday with well over 100k and quite a few pushing 200k.Adding oil is the cheapest option and the most sensible.
     
  3. Feb 26, 2013 at 4:24 PM
    #3
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Check the pcv valve. I suggest this to everyone with excessive oil consumption because it is the number 1 cause of oil usage and easy to check and replace.
     
  4. Feb 26, 2013 at 4:27 PM
    #4
    ToyotaTRD

    ToyotaTRD Well-Known Member

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    What kind of warranty comes with the rebuilt engine? The extra cost may be worth it. Or use the 2500 as a down payment on something newer. Certified pre owned and try to keep your principal the same if possible. The way I look at cars is that whether they are new or old, paid off, leased or financed; they will always cost you something. Reliability and peace of mind go a long way with me. I like having a warranty, even if it costs me more in the long run. You can keep putting oil in it and save money and see if the engine gets worst. Oil is not free either. If it was me I would want reliability and be looking at something newer with a warranty. If I couldn't afford that option I would save money while adding oil and see how much worst it gets. Hopefully I would have enough saved to go with plan A. If you replace the motor you still have a vehicle with 115k which is not crazy but what else needs work at this point? Tires, brakes, suspension, exhaust, transmission? Good luck.
     
  5. Feb 26, 2013 at 4:37 PM
    #5
    Boerseun

    Boerseun Well-Known Member

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    No. 1 would be your best bet financially, but I would never do No. 1 because the buyer will get screwed, and I just hate that (although I realize that it happens all the time)
    If you like the car do option 2 and start putting money away to eventually do a engine rebuild.
     
  6. Feb 26, 2013 at 4:38 PM
    #6
    SteelCityPickle

    SteelCityPickle Well-Known Member

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    I hate to be that guy... but I'm going to do it anyway.

    Correct me if I'm wrong. When you bought the car, it had warranty? The car was still IN warranty when you realized that it was clearly drinking oil? Now after many miles and much missing oil, and well out of warranty and TSB range, you are trying to figure out how to fix the problem?

    Now that I've sufficiently beat you up about it... In good conscience, I couldn't sell this car to someone at "Great condition, nothing wrong with it" price, knowing there was clearly a pretty significant problem with the car. I say keep putting oil in it and drive it till the wheels fall off.

    *edit - Have you tried taking it to the dealer and doing your best "Please help me!" routine to see if they might honor the TSB? Did you ever take it to the dealer for oil changes? Did they ever point out that the car was drinking oil? You could certainly use this, tactfully, to your advantage.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
  7. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:46 AM
    #7
    speedjunkie13

    speedjunkie13 Well-Known Member

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    Just keep an eye on the oil level. I would bet you will never have any issues with it. (at least with the engine blowing up)
     
  8. Feb 27, 2013 at 1:40 PM
    #8
    aficianado

    aficianado Well-Known Member

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    change the oil, and note the mileage and oil level. then check on it in 1000 miles. i bet it is less of a problem than you imagine.
     
  9. Feb 27, 2013 at 1:44 PM
    #9
    taco47001

    taco47001 Newborn

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    He noticed the oil consumption at 115K...warranty only lasted till 60K
     
  10. Feb 27, 2013 at 2:04 PM
    #10
    SuperWhiteSLT11

    SuperWhiteSLT11 Active Member

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    I would do a compression check on each cylinder , if it check out ok I would not worry about it , if its burning that much oil , it probably would not pass emissions test , maybe it was never completely filled from the begining and your not burning as mush oil as you think.
     
  11. Feb 27, 2013 at 2:18 PM
    #11
    miniceptor86

    miniceptor86 Well-Known Member

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    Ask your dealer about doing the tsb, ask to talk to the Toyota district rep, ask if they would at least help.

    Drive it and add oil as needed, don't skip oil/filter changes, many manufacturers used to consider a quart in a 1000 miles "normal", maybe not now with today's cats.

    If you want to trade, trade it too a dealer, I wouldn't sell it privately with out written disclosure because it might come back to haunt you and the haunter might be big and not so understanding
     
  12. Feb 27, 2013 at 2:22 PM
    #12
    hetkind

    hetkind Well-Known Member

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    bilstein set at 1.75, Racho 5000 rear with 4 leaf kit, floor mats, high lift jack, pull hook in hitch, bed rail corner braces, severe duty brake pads and devil horns on the grill....
    let me see, a quart of generic 5w-30 is about $2.50, and it could use a quart every 1,500 miles or so. So for under $10 between changes you can keep this car going for years...

    or you could try a heavier motor oil and see if that helps consumption. This is far less of a problem then you really think it is.

    Howard
     
  13. Feb 27, 2013 at 8:49 PM
    #13
    SteelCityPickle

    SteelCityPickle Well-Known Member

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    He said, "It has always been drinking oil since the day i got it and of course after the warranty is up it got progressively worse."
     
  14. Feb 28, 2013 at 2:50 AM
    #14
    taco47001

    taco47001 Newborn

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    I missed that part during my skim...
     
  15. Feb 28, 2013 at 7:52 AM
    #15
    sde780

    sde780 Well-Known Member

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    Use a "high mileage" oil in a thicker viscosity, stick with conventional, and dry/wet compression test the motor. You should be fine as long as you keep an eye on the dipstick - running 2.5qts low could cause you to spin a bearing
     

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