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ponethousand's build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by ponethousand, May 12, 2012.

  1. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:18 PM
    #201
    ponethousand

    ponethousand [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Paul
    Virginia Beach
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    04 trd dc limited
    regeared, locked, armor, and stuff
    Thanks!. The grill is made by grillcraft. Pretty easy install. Just make sure you have a dremel..
     
  2. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:25 PM
    #202
    Iceman2448

    Iceman2448 Well-Known Member

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    5100 OME 3" front lift 1.5 rear All Injen cold air Intake N-Fab light bar Hella 500FF lights Alpine Heand unit Type R 10 sub r500.1 amp Alpine 6x8 comps up front Alpine 6x9 in rear
    and a 12 pack of beer!!! Trucks looking sweet man
     
  3. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:39 PM
    #203
    JoeTacoma02

    JoeTacoma02 Well-Known Member

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    Funny you're posting in this thread as I was about to post in your lol I've looked through yours and the OPs build threads saying to myself how you two have very similar ideas on building up your trucks. I love both of your guys truck. If I were to ever get a 1st gen again, I'd build it like your guys truck :thumbsup:
     
  4. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:41 PM
    #204
    ponethousand

    ponethousand [OP] Well-Known Member

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    regeared, locked, armor, and stuff
    And some jameson!
     
  5. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:42 PM
    #205
    davidpick

    davidpick NWXPDTN

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    Weber 32/36, RV Cam, LCE exhaust headers, Desmogged
    changing the rear diff oil is cake! you'll need 3 quarts of 75w-90 gear oil, a rear diff drain crush washer from toyota, and a oil hand pump (available at o'reilly/advance/etc), and a catch pan for the old oil

    1. go for a short drive to get the oil warmed up. makes it easier to drain.
    2. use a 24mm socket to loosen the FILL bolt first. Do not remove completely, just loosen.
    3. use 24mm socket to loosen and remove the drain bolt and let the oil drain into the catch pan.
    4. remove the fill bolt and clean both with a paper towel. the magnet on the drain bolt will likely have plenty of metal shavings.
    5. After oil is drained, install new crush washer on drain bolt and reinstall. (unsure of torque spec off the top of my head... want to say 27 ft lbs)
    6. use the hand pump to fill the diff back up with oil through the fill hole until it is level with the bottom of the hole and begins to run back out (about 2.75 quarts)
    7. reinstall fill plug
    8. clean exterior of diff with degreaser (simple green, etc.) so you can see if any drips or leaks develop over the next day or two.
     
  6. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:43 PM
    #206
    Iceman2448

    Iceman2448 Well-Known Member

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    5100 OME 3" front lift 1.5 rear All Injen cold air Intake N-Fab light bar Hella 500FF lights Alpine Heand unit Type R 10 sub r500.1 amp Alpine 6x8 comps up front Alpine 6x9 in rear
    Thanks man. This sweet black beauty looks alot better than mine does. That's why in his build thread. Lol. I will say you have a good eye on spotting a nice rig tho.
     
  7. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:43 PM
    #207
    Iceman2448

    Iceman2448 Well-Known Member

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    5100 OME 3" front lift 1.5 rear All Injen cold air Intake N-Fab light bar Hella 500FF lights Alpine Heand unit Type R 10 sub r500.1 amp Alpine 6x8 comps up front Alpine 6x9 in rear
    Lol. Agreed!!!!
     
  8. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:45 PM
    #208
    ponethousand

    ponethousand [OP] Well-Known Member

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    regeared, locked, armor, and stuff
    I like to steal ideas from other members! But really though what better way than to get ideas from trucks you admire. A lot of great builds out there but I always have a budget in mind. I'm trying to put the money more on where it is functional and serves a purpose. Instead of just buying stuff. Thanks for checking out our builds!
     
  9. Feb 27, 2013 at 9:52 PM
    #209
    JoeTacoma02

    JoeTacoma02 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! I used to have a tan/gold(?) double cab years ago and had plans for it before it got totaled.

    Np! I believe I saw your picture first on TW live awhile ago? Followed the build thread link.

    I agree with the budget and functionality as I'm in the same mindset as you.
     
  10. Feb 28, 2013 at 3:32 AM
    #210
    ponethousand

    ponethousand [OP] Well-Known Member

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    regeared, locked, armor, and stuff
    Thank you!

     
  11. Feb 28, 2013 at 3:46 AM
    #211
    MadMtnMikey

    MadMtnMikey Well-Known Member

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    Hey dude, I need your advice.

    Think back to when you installed your winch. Did you drop the bumper to do it ? I tried to put mine on yesterday, and it doesn't seem possible to get the grille back on once the winch is in place.
     
  12. Feb 28, 2013 at 3:53 AM
    #212
    ponethousand

    ponethousand [OP] Well-Known Member

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    regeared, locked, armor, and stuff
    1. Remove bumper.
    2. Clock winch so engage clutch does not get in the way of the grill (super tight fit) look at my earlier post on winch install. Shoes good pictures on how to clock the winch.
    3. Remove solenoid from winch
    4. Mount bumper with winch
    5. Find place for solenoid.

    Let me know if you need anything else

    Side note. I just ordered a bamf light behind the grill bar. I will be moving my silenoid to the center of the bumper under the light bar.
     
  13. Feb 28, 2013 at 4:09 AM
    #213
    MadMtnMikey

    MadMtnMikey Well-Known Member

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    Sweet, thanks for the quick response man... I saw you had clocked the clutch handle to the back, just wasn't sure if there was a way to squeeze the grille back on with winch in place, because it didn't seem to be the slightest possibility yesterday when I was trying it, lol.... I'm thinking of extending the cables and mounting the solenoid under the hood somewhere. Haven't decided yet. I'm also going to relocate my rear shocks, but I don't know if I'll have that done before the 16-17 Flagpole meet.
     
  14. Feb 28, 2013 at 4:15 AM
    #214
    ponethousand

    ponethousand [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Are you getting a flip kit? Do you know how to weld. If so could you help me with my relocation of the rear shocks. I'll order my u bolt flip kit and shock mounts today if you give me the green light!!!
     
  15. Feb 28, 2013 at 4:40 AM
    #215
    MadMtnMikey

    MadMtnMikey Well-Known Member

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    I'm a weekend warrior at welding. Let me get mine done first and see how it comes out. I'm paranoid about welding on someone else's vehicle. Me being in Richmond, you might get it done quicker if you have Berry (?) do it for you. If I'm able to get mine done before you're ready to do it, I'll see how it comes out, my schedule slows me down a lot.

    I have a MIG and a stick welder, sometimes I weld pretty clean, sometimes it needs a little grinding, depends how much I'm doing it.
     
  16. Feb 28, 2013 at 5:45 AM
    #216
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    And how much you had to drink? ;)
     
  17. Feb 28, 2013 at 5:51 AM
    #217
    MadMtnMikey

    MadMtnMikey Well-Known Member

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    Bingo !!! hahaha.... Sometimes it takes 4 or 5 beers instead of 2 or 3 before the bead smoothes out :eek::eek::eek: LOL !!!
     
  18. Feb 28, 2013 at 5:54 AM
    #218
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    True story,- my buddy would smack himself with a phone book (SWIRLEY) multiple times to mellow himself out before he layed bead...
     
  19. Feb 28, 2013 at 6:25 AM
    #219
    MadMtnMikey

    MadMtnMikey Well-Known Member

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    gots to do what he gots to do I suppose, lol... I don't weld often enough, so sometimes when I pick up my MIG gun I'm a little timid and nervous with it until I get going.

    My stick welder is a whole different issue. Sometimes I want to throw it, because striking an arc once your sticks have picked up moisture can be a pain in arse all on it's own (you have to put them in the oven a while if they're too bad), and then you're trying to keep it going and maintain a decent bead. I use my stick maybe once a year or less, because my MIG will do up to 1/4" and I never weld anything thicker than that.
     
  20. Feb 28, 2013 at 7:12 AM
    #220
    EL TACOROJO

    EL TACOROJO SNAPPIN NECKS AND CASHIN CHECKS.

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    BURRY
    south mills NORCAK
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    smoked taillights,smoked front turnsignals,smoked 3rd brake light,black badges,black roof rack,removed mud flaps,debadged, camburg 2.5 coilovers,camburg uca's, cobra 25 cb, 4ft firestick ant, dust light/bed lights , 4 hellas on the front
    BURRY
    crack works so ive heard but to each their own lol
    rod ovens they work. which wire you run in your mig machine
     
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