The Tacoma Towing Bible

Forgot to mention, only touring like ten miles. Gf got in a minor fender Bender.

 

I recommend towing the ranger with the rear wheels on the dolly. This will prevent any damage to the transmission that may be caused by low fluid.

Just don't forget to secure the steering wheel securely so the front wheels stay straight. And don't rely on the ignition lock for this, use a stout rope or tow strap looped through the steering wheel so it can't move around the rim.

 

Okay, new guy posting here.

Considering buying '12 Tacoma DBL cab TRD w/tow package. Looking for smaller truck (have a '01 Dodge 2500), better milage, fits in my garage (its cold here!) We will also be switching to a towed pop/up camper. Really like the Palomino Banshee B-2 or B-3. Dry weight on the B-3 is 2900#. Total weight rating (wet trailer and cargo) is 3700#. Tongue weight (dry but with propane and battery) is 575# (actually weighed by the dealer). So with a loaded trailer I could easily get to 650# tongue weight.

We asked about pulling this camper with the tacoma, and the camper dealer recommended against it. They recommended 1/2 ton full sized, which is what I am trying to get away from (sucky milage, wont fit in garage). Further, the only advantage a 1/2 ton has is the bigger engine. The tundra's cargo capacity is pretty much the same as the tacoma, it's towing capacity isn't that much less.

Am I pushing the limits of the tongue weight in a dangerous way? Would a WD hitch make much of a difference? I appreciate the camper dealer's willingness to give their honest opinion, most dealers would just say 'sure you're fine, gimme your money."

Looking on this thread (which I have read the whole of- and its awesome) many folks are pulling much heavier loads with the tacoma and claiming no problems.

Thanks for the great info and any thoughts you more experienced folks have would be much appreciated.

 

JGstott:

Welcome toTacoma World Forums!

I have been towing a Palomino Yearling 4100 with a ’06 TRD Sport without any problems! (The Yearling is somewhat lighter than the Banshee but not much.) The only modifications I’ve made were to the truck’s brakes: I installed PowerTech front disks and also stainless steel brake lines at both the front and rear. My truck and trailer are level when towing and I have the standard 2006 TRD suspension set-up (only two leafs and one overload spring – typical for the 2006 model)!

Here are the towing specifications for a 2012 double cab V6 with the factory V6 Tow Package:

Tongue load (lb.) 640

Towing capacity (lb.) 6400

Safe towing requires a level truck and a level trailer. Note that safe tongue weight falls between 9 – 15% of the gross trailer weight. Per Palomino specs the weights on the Banshee B3 are:

Tongue: 384lbs

Gross: 3677lbs

Using the Palomino specs, your tongue weight would be 384/3677 = 10.44% which is within the 9-15% range. (If the tongue is too light, the truck & trailer will bob up and down and is prone to sway. If the tongue weight is too heavy, you will be overloaded and your headlights will point at the treetops!)

Light tongue weight can be corrected by shifting weight forward of the trailer axle. Heavy tongue weight is corrected by shifting weight behind the trailer axle.

Also, I’m curious as to how the dealer computed the 575lb tongue weight. Was the scale the dealer used set at the same height that the hitch ball will be on your hypothetical tow vehicle? If not his calculations are wrong.

Since the Banshee is not a high-wall and requires a folding galley I don’t think you will be able to fit a lot of stuff in there anyway. (I carry most of my camping gear in the truck bed in front of the truck’s rear axle.) As you noted you should have just one propane tank and one deep cycle battery on the trailer’s A frame.


Hope this helps!

 

Thanks mikedgw!

Your info is as I thought but I appreciate the confirmation.

The Palomino dealer was really clear they they thought the published spec for the camper's tongue weight was just wrong. The tested it with propane and batteries, and got 575#. Not sure how they set up the test.

However, it seems like this is doable with a little prep and some minor reweighting.

Thanks so much for weighing in.

JGS

 

I've just bought a 2010 Taco Dbl Cab TRD Off Road w/ a Towing Pkg, and I'm not able to spot the kick panel connector for the trailer brake controller. I've got the plug to connect, but can't find the one on the kick panel. In my defense, I'm not the first guy under that dash, there is an alarm system installed w/ a pot load of little wires scotch-locked to a myriad of factory wires. ( A pox on techs paid by the hour to install such unnecessary crap.) There were 3 plugs (w/ connections on both sides) kind of taped together w/ some plastic crap that were immediately above the top of the kick panel, but they looked to be part of the original wiring w/o the trailer stuff. If I hadn't looked at the plug under the rear bumper I would be doubting the presence of the tow package. Anyone got a suggestion for exactly where to look and what color wires are in it? Is it supposed to be fastened to something or otherwise disguised?

 

k kids, heres what i learned today. dunno if it will help any.

had a mechanic buddy take a look, and after alot of head scratching we both decided, sure enough we need that converter doodad.

it is possible to wire it up without one, BUT you will have your turn signals on your truck on if you have the right blinker on, on the trailer. blow back

so went out and bought this. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...5059_-1&keyword=tail+light&pt=C0421&ppt=C0386

Now normally, and ill agree, DO NOT CUT UP YOUR HARNESS, get this!
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...9_-1&keyword=tail+light&pt=C0421&ppt=C0386#at

But in my case, i already had the wiring in place from that, from the dealer actually, so i simply used the wires meant for the trailer.

wheeee

 

You can get a bracket for a 7-pin receptacle and use a Romex wire clamp that just fits it. It will be wide enough to clamp the 4-flat in it and hold it tight.

'98 Ranger Supercab 4x4 Off-Road
'10 Tacoma Dbl Cab 4x4 Off Road
'02 Civic SI
'96 Impala SS w/ CLIII hitch and Air Lift bags + (usual stuff and for sale)

 

Very informative, thank you...

 

My apologies if this was already answered, but when figuring out the tongue weight of a TT, do I include the WD hitch weight? (95 lbs. shipping weight) Also, does a WD hitch have any effect on the tongue weight capacity? I am looking at buying a 2002 Fleetwood Coleman Caravan 25SLB, and I can only find the dry weight and GVW. I am not having any luck finding any kind of published tongue weight, and as of right now, that is what will make or break the deal. Thanks!

 

Once you start to conciser the WD system the TW pretty much goes out the window but you should try to stay close to your trucks max TW. The hitch on the tacoma is a class 4 hitch. If it was on a bigger truck it could be rated up to 10.000lbs with a TW of 1000lbs. Because of the Tocos lighter weight and smaller drive-train it is rated at TW 650 and a trailer weight of 6500. These numbers are for a single ball mount TW with the MAX Trailer weight. Once you put the WD hitch on it is a matter of equalizing your TV and trailer using the WD system and making sure you have a strong enough system to handle the weight you are trying to distribute. You should never go over the max trailer weight rating or truck cargo rating though. ANything, cargo or weight added aft of the rear axle is considered as part of the TW. This is why you adjust a WD hitch with your TV and trailer loaded. When my rig is loaded I with bike in the truck and full tank of water with full LP tanks an two Batts. I have to really crank the WD system to get it level but it works fine and my truck handles great.

Here is a link on hitched
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx

Here is a link on how to measure TW
http://hildstrom.com/projects/tonguescale/index.html

A pic of my rig completely loaded.


Hope this helps.

Paul

 

@PSMCN:Thanks a bunch! That answers all my questions! The TT GVW is 5500#/dry 4200#, so even maxed out, the trailer will be under the max by at least 1000#. Another thought I had to help put less stress on the hitch/tongue was to place the two LP bottles in the bath tub in the back of the trailer during transit. I have purchased the TT, I just have to wait for the WD hitch and the brake controller to get here some time this week. Thanks again psmcn!

 

Leave the tanks were they belong. You want them secure for safety reason that I think you can understand. When you get your WD system load your trailer and truck then set up your hitch. I hope you got the 8-10K lb hitch for your rig. Anything else would be to light. I think you will be fine with the TW. Take your time when you set it up, take it for a drive then adjust it as may be needed. My trailer is a little over 4K lbs loaded. With the Taco I know its pulling that weight but I have never had the "white knuckle" experience that some talk about. My rig is steady and I can feel comfy with one hand on the wheel. I never exceed 65mph it makes the Taco work to hard with the wind resistance. I don't know what type of hitch you are getting. I have the equalizer and it has worked great after I got it set correctly.

A pic.

Notice the bars are parallel with the frame of the trailer. This is the correct position for every system I have seen. If they are low or hi to find your proper level of the TV follow the instructions to level the bars until you have the desired weight distribution.


I will send you a PM with my email address.

Paul

 

I think I know the answer, but I am new to towing. I am borrowing a friends 18' open landscape trailer to go pick some furniture up, when the trailer is empty, can I leave it in D (overdrive) or should I still put it in 4?

I have an Auto 2nd gen V6 with factory tow package.


ETA: nevermind, buddy brought over the trailer and it is a lot bigger than I thought, without a doubt need to take it out of overdrive to pull this thing.

 

Toyota lists the Towing Capacity of my V6 at 3500# and 6500# w/ Towing Package. The V6 Towing Package includes: Class-IV receiver hitch, transmission and supplemental oil coolers, 130-amp alternator, heavy-duty battery, 7-pin connector and Trailer-Sway Control.

My truck does not have the Towing Package and 3500# seems a bit light. I will be adding a receiver hitch (and plug/pin) but the question becomes, Class-III or Class-IV.

Certainly, the battery and alternator are easy enough to upgrade.

I have been lead to believe that my truck is capable of 6500# (or close to) but Toyota is low to admit such without a Towing Package.

Anyone...anyone...Bueller?

 

I think that rating is due to the extra equipment: bigger battery/alt to help power trailer brakes/lights/etc, oil/tranny cooler to keep engine/tranny from overheating, and the heavier duty hitch.

The problem you will run into is the oil cooler. Many have doing a tranny cooler I think, but the engine oil cooler is expensive. I want to say someone on here or Toyota Nation priced it out at 2x$500 for the major parts, plus a few other things.

 

I think the 3500 rating is assuming that you are putting a ball on the rear bumper.

 

There is so much hemming an hawing about putting the auto trans in 5th or 4th. In my 08 Taco manual it says to run it in 4th when pulling a trailer to assist with engine braking. Thats it! If you can drive your truck in 5th and it stays in 5th while hauling, leave it in 5th. If it is hunting from 5th to 4th at fairly short intervals then put it in 4th. On flat ground I can run my rig in 5th with no problems. When I hit the hills I put it in 4th. I have pulled a 22ft flatbed empty in 5th with no problems and loaded in 5th as well. You just have to feel it out. Furniture is not heavy and should not cause a lot of strain on the Taco.

I run in 5th with this set up as well.

 

I can attest, from years of towing our 28', 6-ton (loaded) toyhauler - with a Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison, the OP's info is 100% correct. I wish it had been out there when I was first starting towing.

I whole-heartedly recommend the Prodigy brake controller... it has performed flawlessly from the moment it was installed.

We chose to replace the OEM unit with a Putnam hitch, as it has a significantly higher rating than the Drawtite or Reese units (16,000/1600). The stock Chevy hitch at the time had a reputation for catastrophic failure (i.e. coming apart while towing).

The only other thing I would add is, take your fully loaded trailer to a certified CAT scale (truck stops often have them). For under $20 you will know your EXACT gross trailer weight and tongue weight. If it's a slow day, and you can spare a few bucks more, you can even get the weight on each axle of the trailer and truck. In Mav's bible, he says the weight of your trailer will surprise you, and get very heavy, very easily...I fully concur with that. In addition, trailer manufacturers often list the trailer weight BEFORE any options (like the genset, bbq grill, tv, etc.) are added. Water & fuel contribute significantly to the weight (our toyhauler holds 150 gallon of fresh water, and 50 each of black & gray... though they are almost never all full at the same time, that' a total of 2075 lbs!). All before loading our bikes...

WEIGH YOUR RIG!!!

 

26' Sea Ray Sundeck and 20' goat trailer