Anyone into R/C?

Do they make a 2nd gen tacoma body?

 

nope they make short course tundra bodies though. thats about as close as ur gonna get to a tacoma lol

 

Nope, Tundra bout as close as you can get.

 

jinx you owe me a soda!

 

Cool thanks. Wish they made one. I'm sure they'd sell a few!

 

Just installed a brushless motor and speed control.

 

I suck at painting and masking

I'm a carpenter not a painter

 

Got the brushless installed in the sct, and holy hell is it fun didn't think i'd be able to do wheelies on a 2s.

Going to order some paddles so i can take it to the beach. looking for some suggestions on a good offroad tire for it though. stock ones are almost shot already. need them for a 2.2/3.0 wheel.

 

Ordered some 40 series trenchers and some t-bone racing bunpers for the emaxx, also ordered a brushles setup for the micro t.

 

Anyone know if people are still interested in the XXX 2wd or XXX4 buggies? I have one of each that I put together years back, but never ran and want to get rid of them so I can start getting some new gear to race...

 

I'd suggest you check out RCTech.net

That XXX4 buggy would sell quick, but current Losi pros are still running the XXX4 buggy and winning

 

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ro-Line-Badlands-20-M2-SC-22-30-Truck-Tires-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product.../JConcepts-Choppers-Short-Course-Tires-Blue-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...n/Pro-Line-Trencher-SC-M2-22-30-Truck-Tires-2

 

Badlands it is. Thanks Tony.

 

Out with the old



in with the new



going to try to get GPS top speed and acceleration tomorrow.

 

Looks good man, my only recommendation is shorten those motor/esc wires or atleast braid them. It may not be a problem but my slash ran good for awhile then started having range issues because i didnt shorten the wires, castle says to keep those wires as short as possible (less resistance = better voltage and more power).

Let us know how it runs with the new power system

 

i was going to shorten them, but then i browsed through the manual that came with them, and for some reason, they say to keep them full length if possible

i did some math though, and assuming the motor is pulling the full 80 amps, there is only a 0.064 volts drop across the existing length of wires. assuming i can cut out 3 inches of cable (that's the very most i could take out), it would bring the drop to a 0.038 volts drop. meaning i'm only saving 0.026 volts, which only comes out to a 0.35% savings in total voltage at 7.4 volts. i highly doubt i'd be able to notice such a savings. If i run into the issues you did though, i'll go for it.

by braiding, do you litterally mean braid/weave the wires together?

 

Hmm, this is from them on there webpage:

"These systems are capable of putting out over 1,000 watts of power. As a comparison, an average 10 turn system might be capable of around 200 watts. When that much power is flowing from the ESC to the motor, you need to be careful about your radio installation. If the antenna is near, or laying against those high power wires, you will have very poor range. Make sure to locate the Rx and antenna routing with as much physical separation as possible from the motor wires. Another helpful tip for any electric powered vehicle, is to keep those wires as short as possible (less resistance = better voltage and more power) and also twisting or braiding them helps to choke the energy fields that surround them. So remember – short and twisted/braided motor wires not only improves range, but also leads to a neater installation and more power! "

Yes by braiding I mean weave them or twist them together. I braded mine because i didnt have any bullets to resolder, my issue was range, i lost everything when i was 15ft away from the car, after i braided it it all worked like normal, and my antenna wire was no where near the motor wires.

This is how my slash is set up, the r/x box is very front of the chassis, no where near the motor wires, it ran fine for a few months before i started having issues with range.



Just wanted to give you a heads up, that way if you do have any issues you will have a option to look at.

 

Question-

What and how do you lube ur RC cars? I'm talking like the driveshafts and joints. What type of lube is good?

 

Cool, Thank you for the heads up. The proximity issue makes a lot of sense so i'll keep an eye out for that, but the calculations show that doing it for power is not a good reason. reminiscent of the new muffler = horsepower threads lol.

are you running the 3800kv motor in your slash? and which esc are you using? i'm trying to figure out the best way to waterproof the sidewinder with a fan build into it.......

 

It all depends on what type of r/c you have, some need more maintenance. Basically you will want to pull everything apart every now and then and look at/examine all your parts for cracks/wear, i clean and lube anything that moves/rotates (ring and pinion gears, cvds, o-rings, and bearings, etc).

For most cases I use mobile 1 synthetic, or a marine grease for its waterproofness.