New Tacoma(to me) wheel bearing?

Well it's an 06 with 59k miles so I'm out of warranty

 

I would stay away from anything that autozone sells with the name "dura" in front of it, duralast and durastop parts are cheaply made in China. Anytime you replace a quality OEM part with cheap junk, you're taking a little more reliability away. $69.99 is very cheap for an entire assembly and remember, you get what you pay for. Just my 2 cents

 

Well then I guess were in the same boat. Both 4x4s, both have bad driver side.

Shaking it is a little hard to tell. It's easier for me to grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 oclock position and just keep wiggling it until you can feel it moving but be warned, at that point your pretty far gone. I have a buddy on here "THE TRAVELER" thats going to help me knock out mine. I'll try to take some pics for ya so maybe to shed some light

 

I'm going to try mine tomorrow. Hopefully everything goes as planned! Appreciate the help

 

I did my wheel bearings a few months ago, It was a bitch cause I had no Idea what I was doing.
My Taco is a 1st Gen, I'm sure somethings are similar. Here is a link of the write up I did on my wheel bearings.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/wheels-tires/260188-changing-out-wheel-bearing-how.html

 

maybe its the needle bearing on your drivers side front diff. does the sound go away when in 4wd

 

Sound is still there in 4x4 so I don't think it's a needle bearing. Thanks though

 

I used the PVC as a seal driver to tap the seal onto the new bearing housing squarely. Worked like a charm. I have a press at work also. It came apart really easy and pressed together real easy too.
You need something really strong and thin to get enough support between the wheel hub and bearing retainer as you're pressing apart. Other than that not too tough. Pressing together put the bearing housing flat on the press deck and press the wheel hub into the bearing.
I did both sides at the same time because in my experience with multiples of the same component when one goes out the other takes a poop shortly there after. Kinda like headlight bulbs.
BTW 1st and 2nd gen wheel bearings are not the same. No manual locking hubs to screw with.

 

Another questions(this pic isn't from me) Is the center piece (looks to be a quarter inch thick with the threads in it for the cv axle) connected to the hub? I don't know if hub is the right word, im talking about the circle piece with the 6 lugs on it. So are the threads for the cv axle in the middle of this pic connected to that?

 

That piece will bolt on to the spindle with the 4 studs. The axle goes through the middle and is held in place by a large nut. The 6 studs on the outside is what holds the wheel on. If you're gonna do this, it's a good idea to torque everything especially the axle nut.

 

I was just wondering if the groves in the middle of the wheel bearing were connected to the thing with the studs on it where the wheel goes. It must be connected to that because I just got my bearing assembly and It doesn't come with a new one. But yeah
Yeah I need to get/find a torque wrench. Any idea where I can get the specs?

 

Yes the grooves are connected to the thing with the wheel studs on it. That's the wheel hub. It's all one piece. That needs to be pressed out and into the new bearing.
Put you're new seal on the bearing housing first, put the 4 mounting bolts in the housing holes and press your wheel hub into the bearing. You must put the 4 bolts in the holes before you press the wheel hub in. You'll see why when you remove the assembly from your truck. Replace the O'ring that seals the bearing assembly to the knuckle. The torque spec for the axle shaft nut is 173 ft.lbs.

 

That cleared some things up, I knew once I pulled it off the truck it would have cleared some things but I like to know before hand.
Appreciate it

 

Yeah took me a little while to figure that out when i did my first one. I got the hub from autozone and I was like "uhhh what's my cv going to connect to!? Theres a big hole there!"

Well we got mine off today, but the shops closed before we could get it pressed. Oh.My.... It was BAD. the bearing straight up split in half during the process of getting it off. My shit was drrrryyyy.
Can't wait to get my new one on

 

Was it a pain to get off? I hope I have the right/enough tools here at school..

 

It was a bit of a pain but that's probably because my bearing was pretty chewed up and I have 100k miles on her. We used a slide hammer to help get it off. That it a pry bar/wedge you can stick in the spot between the hub and the dust plate will help. Good luck!

 

I just got both front ones replaced at 85k miles.

43570-04010 - Bearing only - $120.77
90316-A0001 - Outer seal - $24.56
90312-96001 - Inner seal - $11.16

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...g-noise-wheel-bearing-bad-something-else.html

 

Appreciate it guys!

 

let us know how you make out

 

Have everything off besides the axle nut. I even broke the 4 hub bolts lose. I rented a torque wrench from advanced auto parts. It's kind of flimsy and I don't want to break it when trying to take the axle nut off so I am seeing if I can get a breaker bar. How hard was it for you guys to take it off?