Help, trying to remove brake caliper?

2007 tacoma dbl cab prerunner
I recently broke off one of my lug studs on the front drivers side while trying to remount the wheel. I bought a new stud from dealership and went to install it which requires removing the caliper to pull the rotor. Unfortunately I haven't been able to move past the two bolts that secure the caliper to the bracket. Any suggestions or tricks on breaking these loose would be greatly appreciated.
thanks

 

I haven't done this myself on the tacoma but I've learned these are fixed calipers (not floating). Not sure how different they are from floating calipers.

Here's a factory service manual page to look at that might help you. Looks like there's no pins - just 2 bolts.

 

the manual is greatly appreciated, and at least assures me the two bolts I'm trying to break loose are the right ones. Still no luck even with a 2ft. pipe over a socket wench and hammer tapping on it.

 

They probably used some loc-tite at the factory.

Do you have any penetrating lubricant? Like...PB Blaster (for instance).

A little squirt of that stuff at the base of the bolts - go in the house, grab a drink, relax, and come back and tackle it. PB is good stuff.

 

Two words: IMPACT WRENCH!

Impact wrench and some sockets FTW!

I have an air compressor and impact almost solely for taking off nuts n bolts without breaking something! I've snapped wheel studs and countless bolts using cheater bars.

So now I have a 550ft-lb impact and set of metric deep wall impact sockets. I also have a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to use my full socket for those smaller, stubborn, ones. (got that before I decided I needed "impact" sockets, and before I shattered a normal socket with the impact)

 

Oh, and I'm lazy so impact wrench and air socket are about my 2 favoritest tools!

 

Same here...

The original person probably doesn't have air tools and I certainly wouldn't recommend running out and buying everything without some good solid research first. Not everyone can afford that kinda stuff either.

I've had situations where the air tools still don't work and still requires the PB blaster and a big long pipe for leverage.

 

I'm in a first gen, but still have those 2 bolts on the calipers....they were a bitch to break free. Like Janster said, use some penetrating oil, let it sit, then strong arm em' off.

 

True. But if you're into doing your own maintenance, then an air compressor and tools are a good investment.

Tire rotations, inflation, suspension work, etc. Hell, I even needed an impact wrench to get the bed bolts out so I could add more D-Rings.

I've have a few bolts that wouldn't come out with an impact, but most of them were damaged anyway. I have a 13gal compressor by Cambell Hausfield that works well, but not enough air for heavy tools. I picked up a 20 gal recently, but it won't run in my barn! It draws too much power so I run 180 feet of line from my basement to the barn. In the cold weather we've had here the line gets cold and the tool stops working. Those are about the only times I've have my impact not break something loose.

With that in mind though, I am planning on upgrading from a 550ft-lb to a 900ft-lb model for all those rusted trucks my buddy seems to NEED to buy.

 

Just be careful with that method!

A buddy did that helping me do the brakes on my old Tercel. He snapped a bolt while we were in the parking lot for my apartment. Luckily he had a friend with a shop. It took 10 minutes under a torch to get it out, and he just happened to have the right bolt we needed to put it back together.

So after snapping that and a wheel stud with cheater bars let the impact vibrate the rust loose and avoid snapping bolts. If the impact can't get it, then you have other problems anyway. Like it's probably going to strip the head, snap, or you'll just be there all damn day beating on it!

Small bolts like that are easy to snap strong arming them off, but are easy for an impact to get out correctly. Only ones I've had trouble getting out with it were the 1/2" axle bolts on a 79 ford ranger.

 

I didn't use a cheater bar. I braced my feet up against something and worked at it with a socket wrench, it took a little while with breaks between efforts, but I eventually got them loose. Btw, if this method is used, I suggest a little stretching first or your body may pay for it later.

 

I basically just had 2 open end/box wrenches looped together to get more leverage. Not a long pipe, but it was enough to twist the head off. I get nervous with small bolts on the brake system. Lots of heat, dust, and rust lock those suckers in there, and it's a bitch if you break one.

Not to mention the impact just makes it faster and easier.

 

We have a Dayton 30gallon in the basement piped up to the garage. Works great for what we use it for. We were using a Craftsman impact gun....which is OK for standard usage. It sucks for tough jobs. We bought a ThunderGun from IR which is much more powerful than the craftsman.