Which CAI would you pick?

I'm sure you have read some of the posts about this on XRu. Murderface seemed to have most of the info. Shame he's gone. He found the best setup for a supercharged XR to be AFE SI CAI fed by the Volant scoop.

I'll change up the display on my Scangage to indicate IAT.

On e thing you may know, is the heated coolant to the throttle body before, after or at the throttle body itself.

Have you ever capped the water hoses to the throttle body.
I should search this on XRu.

FWIW, seat of the pants, my truck has always felt better driveability and more bottom end with your old intake. I just recently went all Volant. Seems better still just daily driving. I do need to install the MAF black box to get fully dialed in.

PK

 

Pretty sure I see a TB bypass on xru a long time ago.

FI tacomas can't use the urd due to intercooler interference iirc, so yeah....they def did some frankenstien stuff with good results.


Iirc tho the 4 cyl guys had decent flow characteristics stock....I am pretty sure I was told that by gadget last time we talked, and why he hasn't done a urd intake for them....they already have a decent setup.

 

And the Frankenstuff may work better away from the streets than a URD in true off-road conditions.

Everything is a compromise.

PK

 

URD true CAI or AFE stage 2 Si!

 

I understand the relevancy of cold air charge and compressed air having an effect on pre-detonation, I know on my 4x4 the passenger side wheel well has louvers that actually direct high pressure ( above atmosphere) into the fender cavity generated off of the tire and creates a flow base for the purpose of the intake, heat from the brakes, pavement and such are attenuated once the vehicle is moving over 15 mph.

In a stock configuration an aftermarket CAI will do little to nothing for HP gains unless there is a way of tuning it.

 

No, the heat from the rotors is not drawn out by the vanes and spit out/pulled out by the wind.....it sits there and hovers and you know it. Even at 55mph it just hovers like a dark cloud.





Quit making so much sense.... what's ur background?

 

I know the OP has already decided and installed his intake, but here is a quote from an older thread (2011) from Gadget at URD that some might be interested in. Also, this quote might help with the "does an intake increase power or not" people. Remember, don't argue with me, this is from Gadget:

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19839

"There are two CARB certified intakes for the 1GR-FE engine.

The first one is from AirAid. The way this one works is you remove the stock air filter from the air filter box and replace it with a plastic frame which is pretty much the same thing as the stock filter with the filter media removed. Then you replace the large rubber tube that connects the air filter box to the fender with a cone filter. In this configuration the stock air filter box and the carbon trap stay.

In my dyno testing, I have tested all kinds of different configurations of the stock air filter box, the rubber tube off, the lid off, the filter out, the filter and carbon trap out and none of that made any difference in power. It is the air filter box its self that is restrictive and the way it makes the air turn and twist around a few times before it gets to the flow straightener in front of the MAF sensor. So replacing the rubber tube with a cone filter is not going to gain power and you will be turning it into a hot air intake. I would suggest that you not waste your money on this one.

The next is the NEW version of the TRD intake. It is pretty much a copy of the air filter box from the new 1GR-FE air filter box from the 2010 FJ and 4Runner. It uses the same filter and the same carbon trap. I have dyno tested this intake and there is increased power. I have also found a serious problem with it. It induces a serious error in the MAF sensor reading and jacks the fuel tirms out of sight and makes the engine run really lean at full throttle. At first I had hoped it was just the one intake I tested, but I have seen results from a good many now from all over the country and the all seem to be screwed up.

Here is my suggestion. Get the aFe Stage 2si intake. This is very much the same as the earlier TRD intake that is NOT CARB approved. I have them in stock. I have dyno tested a gain of 12 RWHP on my 2006 4Runner. It is not CARB approved, but it takes 10 minutes to remove it and reinstall the stock air filter box when you need to smog your truck if you are in Cali.

http://www.urdusa.com/Intakes-Cold-A...duct_info.html

G"

 

Just ordered the AFE Stage 2 SI for $265 shipped on autoanything. They are doing 15% off orders over $150 right now. Think I got a pretty good deal on it, as the ones I seen elsewhere were upwards of $350. Just thought I'd pass that along...

 

Wow, that's a great price! The best price I'd ever seen on one of those is at afeintake.com for I think something like $300

 

Yea autoanything had them for $312 shipped, but they are having a promo code right now for the 15 % off.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI


LOL

 

Thats a stupid video. We have dynoed intakes and seen proven increases. Every application is different.

Here is an Airaid MXP we just did, compared to the aFe that was on the truck.

 

Which line is which? As for the video, this intake debate is like the octane debate, nobody is ever going to change their minds, even when there's actual data to support the other side.

 

And the Dyno was on a Nissan, in which could have curves that can adjust for changes, whereas the 2nd gen Tacoma's have very little and need tuning.

in the box "Run ID" what does retune int 2 indicate?

 

The truck was retuned for new JBA long tube headers. The Airaid made more power over AFE on the Nissan Titan with just the intake swap. J

 

So I have a K&N intake not knowing which Series I have. How can I tell the difference???

 

http://www.knfilters.com/kits.htm

Main difference is if the tube is metal or plastic.

 

OH! I have the plastic one. Thanks alot!