Home Improvement Today?

They are remote shut offs for the water lines in the laundry box

 

i'd wager that weighs quite a bit! ...do you do any reinforcement to the cabinetry?

 

Not much more than stone

 

It was just shy of 4 80lbs bags of concrete. I'd guess around 275-300 lbs. Works out to about 21 lbs per square foot. It's a solid cabinet. 3cm granite is about 20 lbs per square foot.

 

That's thinking. I hate having to pull a washer cause ya can't see behind it. I plumbed my wash box higher than washer.

 

This is a fairly standard rough in kit meant for when you put a side by side W/D under a countertop , can't remember the brand name off hand , if I do I'll post it up

 

Need some advice on the garage I insulated last fall.
So 22'x22' 13 ft ceilings. First two feet from cement slab is block foundation, garage is attached to house.

I put R12 in the walls and R40 blown in ceiling. Vapour barriered it all as well. 1/2" drywall. Not taped yet.
Unheated garage.
I park two vehicles in there all winter, and the thermometer reads above freezing for the better part of the winter, lots of water everywhere. Did my best to squeegee it out when I could. The cinder block walls were frosty all winter and some parts of the drywall near where it meets the cinderblock is frosty.
Sure enough, moving some things today i see mold on the certain parts of the drywall.

My first thoughts are:
1- I have to get this taped and painted asap (at least before next winter).
2 - I have to be more vigilant with the water removal. As there is no drain.

Thoughts?

 

Is the block uninsulated ?

 

Yes the block is uninsulated.

 

Need to box in and insulate the concrete

 

X2

Yes , you need to insulate the concrete , it's acting as a surface for condensation to form on , spray foam is best

 

Spray foam is the best choice (2 lb foam though, don't use those .5 lb foam kits from hd, etc) or you can use sm foam board (blue colour usually).

If you use something other than the 2 lb foam, make sure you use vapour barrier

 

Another thing you might think of is to not run the drywall to the bottom of the floor. In our garage we have it drywalled and taped. Our drywall stops about a foot from the concrete floor. I guess this was done for same reason, in order to prevent molds and wet drywall from water. If you are constantly getting water in the garage you might want to put a floor drain in as well.

 

The concrete block wall is two feet high, then the drywall goes up from there. There is spotting of mould in behind some boxes and spots near the ceiling. My last garage had a drain and was heated to 5*C.

How thick will the spray foam be on the wall? The issue is water on the floor and no air circulation for hours overnight combined with bare drywall. I think..

 

Water heater shit the bed over the weekend - let go with a tank full of water when we were out grocery shopping, came home to a lot of water everywhere. Have a finished basement, carpets need to be replaced, drywall to be replaced, purchased new heater. Hopefully insurance covers a lot of the cost.

All that can be replaced but the wifes wedding dress was in the closet that abutts the sotrage closet with the water heater, it acted like a sponge with all the water that seeped through the drywall.

 

that sucks
when ur hw heater or laundry area is in a finished area
i would highly recomend a floor drain in said room or a drip pan

 

The uninsulated concrete block is allowing a large amount of thermal bridging , and probably acting as a condensating surface , as is the surface of the slab by the sounds of it , the mould around ceiling boxes may be a sign that the moisture is also condensing on the box itself or the vapour barrier in that area .

Is there no heat at all in the garage ?

Is there insulation in the ceiling / roof above the garage ?

2lb sprayfoam reaches R20 at about 3-4 inches thick

 

i would cut a vent in it treat it as if its a root cellar

 

That depends

 

What's the cost of 2lb spray foam out your way? It's $1 per 12"x12"x1" here