2005 Bulletproof Taco: 1 Ton SAC

Yesssss nice garage.

 

Very nice garage. Makes for working on projects a lot more fun. Especially when it's cold outside.

 

Thanks. Nothing special just a two-car garage...but when the truck is smack dab in the middle of it there's plenty of room to work

Ran the 220v and several extra 110v outlets before insulating/drywalling as well.

I will have a nice gas-fired hanging heater before next winter as well, then it will be really nice when its cold outside

 

More goodies:





Maybe get this in this weekend so I can wrap up the rear suspension/driveline...

 

Dude. Seriously. Your mods flow in like a pub tap! Envious

 

Why thank-you king sir

 

Very nice.....

 

So, I'm sure you did your research... Why the Inchworm over the Marlin or vice versa? Also, I noticed on Inchworm's site that they "do not recommend using a 4.7:1 gear set in the first case because of the strain it puts on the input of the chain driven case". First I've seen that.

 

Costwas a factor. The product is very much the same in the end, and inchworms customer service is top notch (never dealt with Marlin, just heard they are hard to get ahold of sometimes). There are some threads out there comparing the two, and the information contained within is almost 8 years old. For example Inchworm now uses a completely new output shaft in the gear driven case (just as Marlin does) to mate with 23 spline stuff, not a modified stock output as they tried (unsuccessfully) long ago. Both are a great product, and I wouldn't hesitate to run either one in my truck. Inchworm also "lets" you find your own shifter, instead of including it and charging for it.

I spoke with Josh at inchworm, and I am confident there product will more than suit my needs. I hope I dont eat those words.

They both use each others adaptors, in fact most of the Marlin cases I have seen come with Inchworms tranny adaptor plate.

You can still upgrade the internals, like I did, to use the Marlin total spline input shaft, vs. the Trail Gear 23 spline input.

In the end the only difference is the special oiling technology for the bearing in the adaptor from the gearcase to your chain driven case. I have yet to see or hear of a failed case due to a seized tcase bearing in this location.

As for the 4.7's, I stuck with stock gears, so doesnt matter to me, however, both companies use the same gear driven case, and Marlin says 4.7's in the front are ok, and that would be good enough for me.

Some things in life which are better or stronger, unless necessary due to use and loading, are excessive and unecessary. For example, I can put a 3" pillow block bearing on a radio flyer wheel, and it will be stronger for sure, but when the wagon sees such small loading in real world use, is it really necessary?

 

No, but you'd have the coolest wagon on the street!

 

I don't know, I used to take my wagon down some pretty intense hills. My brother and I broke more than one. We were so stupid that after the wagon would break, we just run, jump, and tuck and roll. Probably why I'm a bit off in the head now.

In all seriousness though, that's good information. Thanks!

That's good info as well. Thanks man!

 

Well finished drywalling over the weekend since I had some extra hands (thanks Supra TT). Also added another set of drawers to my toolbox (I dont give a shit that its red, lol) and got the compressor set-up how I want it too. Ran a dedicated 20A receptacle with a piloted switch to turn it on and off. Then added a regulator and a hose reel too.



Almost ready to start working on the truck now

Tapped IFS box comes in tomorrow

 

Also did some more frame reinforcing on my dad's 1949 Ford project:



Alot of welding...

Just look at that rear end, lol:

 

4x Superduty Transfer case mount came on today for the crawlbox...

 

I am gonna run bushings at the crossmember mounts as well to try to reduce the vibes...

 

I just read though this whole build, good stuff.

 

Hey sooooo...

Do you have your entire front ifs setup and front part of the frame with crossmembers??

Like basically did you just cut out the frame and not totally destroy anything else??

 

Wow! I just read all 20 pages, great build sir!

Brett

 

Cut it all of and scrapped it already. Sorry.

Thanks! Stay tuned it gets better!

More schtuff:









Now just waiting on links and rod ends!

 

Any second gen owners looking for a spare driveshaft? Decided to go with a CV driveshaft and one piece after the crawler and SAS which mean I have mine available.

Right now I have two rear sections to move, retubed to .085" wall (stock is .065")

Paid $140 each to retube...hows about $125 shipped?

I always carried a spare rear section in case (for when, I should say) I knocked mine on teh rocs