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Shackle Flip Kit - The Official Armor Tech Offroad Thread!

Discussion in 'Armor Tech Offroad' started by ArmorTech, Mar 6, 2013.

  1. Mar 18, 2013 at 8:15 PM
    #61
    hard2kill

    hard2kill Well-Known Member

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    this is what i was talking about in more detail...12in shocks will work for me with what i want to do....my 10's will not
     
  2. Mar 18, 2013 at 8:17 PM
    #62
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    You can always make a longer shock work by increasing bumpstop height...you'll lose some uptravel (possibly also some downtravel) that way, but hell, who knows, it might make your spring packs last longer...everything's a compromise...

    Also, regarding negative leafspring arch: I've yet to hear anything other than anecdotal word-of-mouth that it's a problem as long as you're within the elastic limits of the material the spring is made from. In other words: Unless you stretch the spring enough to deform it, it doesn't really matter. The last materials engineer who's brain I picked on the matter said, in not so many words:

    "Think about it this way...a coilspring doesn't get damaged from compression or extension unless you squash or pull it far enough to bend the metal itself. This applies to leaf springs or airplane fuselages or any material intended to stretch during use. Moving from elastic deformation to plastic deformation is the problem."

    He did note aggressively moving a spring through elastic cycles generates wear more quickly, as metal fatigue is basically a function of number of cycles.

    Boiled down version: Negative arch that doesn't deform your leaf spring won't damage it, but it will wear it out more quickly, thus leading to earlier breakage or sag.

    So, leaf springs are now a wear item. Welcome to offroading and modding, right?
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
  3. Mar 18, 2013 at 8:31 PM
    #63
    mjm540ii

    mjm540ii Ding Dang Dee

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    What's the best way to remove the rivets from the stock hanger, grinder w cut-off wheel?
     
  4. Mar 18, 2013 at 8:32 PM
    #64
    hard2kill

    hard2kill Well-Known Member

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    well said man.....ive always felt this way about it....but everyone just repeats what someone else tells them...
     
  5. Mar 18, 2013 at 8:33 PM
    #65
    hard2kill

    hard2kill Well-Known Member

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    grinder and air chisel
     
  6. Mar 18, 2013 at 8:37 PM
    #66
    Burgman

    Burgman I KEEEEEL YOU

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    Dooo want
     
  7. Mar 18, 2013 at 10:43 PM
    #67
    HAWAIICALIVEGAZ

    HAWAIICALIVEGAZ Desert Warrior

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    in cause I might need them LOL Do longer shackles allow for more droop/travel?
     
  8. Mar 19, 2013 at 4:38 AM
    #68
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    If you don't know what they do, you should research until you do before messing with them.

    They affect many things within your suspension.
     
  9. Mar 19, 2013 at 6:02 AM
    #69
    hard2kill

    hard2kill Well-Known Member

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    ^^^^this....
     
  10. Mar 19, 2013 at 6:26 PM
    #70
    ArmorTech

    ArmorTech [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your post, this information is already contained in the first post as well.

    All I will say is that a lot of the stock 05+ Tacomas that I have looked at have a factory setup that allows quite a lot of negative arch. Bottom line you're right, your entire truck is now a wear item, welcome to offroading.

    Grind the heads off, drill out the center and pound the heck out of them. An air chisel will help if you have access but drilling as much as possible without hitting the holes in the frame will help a lot. Be careful when punching out the lower rivets. The rear cross member is thin and will simply bend with the rivet still attached.

    Longer Shackles are used to add lift. They will have very little effect on the suspension travel.
     
  11. Mar 20, 2013 at 11:04 AM
    #71
    HAWAIICALIVEGAZ

    HAWAIICALIVEGAZ Desert Warrior

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    That's why i asked the question....:tumbleweed:
     
  12. Mar 24, 2013 at 8:19 PM
    #72
    mgrande

    mgrande iKill

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    There's a few long threads on here where people go back and forth and a lot is learned. If I wasn't on my phone I would give you some links. :)
     
  13. Mar 24, 2013 at 8:29 PM
    #73
    nfs257

    nfs257 Well-Known Member

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  14. Mar 24, 2013 at 11:33 PM
    #74
    Boost JuNkY

    Boost JuNkY Well-Known Member

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    Does this work on all pro standard pack or unknown at this time?

    Regarding the rivets, does it require a lot of grinding and pounding to get em out? Im just concerned about the noise factor doing it at home.
     
  15. Mar 25, 2013 at 10:03 AM
    #75
    ArmorTech

    ArmorTech [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have not tested the kit with those springs. As long as they are the same length as the factory springs you'll be fine.

    You have to cut the head off of a total of 8 rivets. Drilling out the middle of the rivet helps for removing them. Get as close to the middle as you can, drill as large as you can with out hitting the frame. If you hit the middle of the rivet perfectly you would barely need to hit them for them to pop out, but that is easier said than done.
     
  16. Mar 25, 2013 at 10:18 AM
    #76
    Ugly Betty

    Ugly Betty Well-Known Member

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  17. Mar 25, 2013 at 11:00 AM
    #77
    HomerTaco

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    HomerTaco ...................................................................................................................................................... Core-Hurst short throw shifter & T-handle / Carbon Fiber Interior / custom console light / De-badged / leather interior / Heated Front seats / Red Line Hood Struts / Painted speaker grills /one-off TRD Satoshi Grill with 12-15 front-end swap/ Pioneer AVIC-X920BT HU / Scangauge II / Black LED Tails / Dash Mount for iPad mini / Safari Snorkel / Auto-pilot mode / Leer 100XQ Cap / 4x Innovations sliders / Rear Diff Breather Mod / front windows tinted to 35% / Brute Force Fab Hybrid Front Bumper / BAMF Rear Diff Skid / Budbuilt Skids / CBI Trail Master 2.0 rear hybrid bumper / Fox rr coils/ TC UCA's/ TC spindle gussets/ TC Cam Tab gussets / Dakar leafs / Defined Engineering shackles / All pro U bolt flip / Timbren Rear Bumpstops / BAMF LCA skids / Exhaust re-route / Fog Light anytime Mod / LowRange Off Road extended rear brake lines / ATO Shackle Flip / sectioned Bushwhacker flares / re-geared to 4.56 / ARB Front & Rear Locking Diff / ARB CKMA12 compressor / PrInSu full rack system / 1" body lift / Inchworm 4.7 crawlbox / twin stick FJ t-case / Davez off-road triple-stick kit/
    That's putting it mildly... :eek:

    The rivets are a total PITA to remove - the drill out method is how I did it as well.
     
  18. Mar 25, 2013 at 11:08 AM
    #78
    wrmathis

    wrmathis Dark Lord of the Sith

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    any idea when the OME kit gonna be released?
     
  19. Mar 25, 2013 at 12:34 PM
    #79
    mjm540ii

    mjm540ii Ding Dang Dee

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    I'm just having trouble disconnecting my brake lines:mad: 10mm wrench won't easily break them loose and I don't wanna strip 'em. Ideas welcome..
     
  20. Mar 25, 2013 at 12:38 PM
    #80
    dirtymike

    dirtymike Well-Known Member

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    Fiberglass,spindles, coils, 4"leafs, gears&locker, no skids :-/
    Get a wrench made for brake lines I believe its called a flare nut wrench
     
    dreadedyota likes this.

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