FINISHED THE "MY" LIFT!!! install pics and instructions

ok, so as some of you know, i recently ordered my stuff from wheelers.

ome 884 coils (885 originally but then i was educated on how high they would actually lift my truck. THANKS GUYS) with 5100s to calm them

wheelers 1.5" progressive 3-leaf aal with 5100s.

start by jacking the truck up in the front. i used my floor jack at the forward cross member and supported the frame rails with jack-stands. i set the stands so that i could lower the floor jack and have the tires touch pavement, if necessary. ill explain why later. call me slow but i decided to do this one tire at a time.

after removing the drivers side tire, and lowering my floor jack to the stands i set earlier, the tie-rod end had to move. remove the cotter-pin and the 19mm castle nut. I flipped the nut over and ran it down enough so that it felt safe to beat on it, and proceeded to do so. a few good whacks and the ball-joint popped out of the steering knuckle/ spindle. be carefull here, i screwed up the threads a little bit. the only way i could find to re-tighten this nut afterword was to beat it back up into the knuckle/spindle enough to hold the ball-joint from turning.

tie rod end removed and swung away


now, we can remove the strut. rattle the bottom bolt loose with a 19mm and remove the top 3 nuts with a 14mm (maybe it was 17mm). DONT REMOVE THE CENTER NUT ON TOP!!!! then, i beat the bottom bolt out with a drift. using a pry-bar between the bump-stop and lca, I was able to pull the strut right out.

now the fun. using my friend's spring compressors from vato-zone, i began compressing the factory coils so i could remove my top-plate. they worked fine on his spacer-lift for his big-dumb-dodge (3500 4x4) so i figured what the hell. i began carefully, by hand, but soon ended up using my impact, and checking the rod length sticking out of the compressor tools occasionally to be sure i was loading them evenly.

once the spring load has been removed from top plate, i.e you can wiggle the coil on the shock, remove the top-nut, and pay attention to how the washers and cushions come off. i marked my plate and spring cushions, to be safe. then unload the coils, again, checking for even loading between the compressor tools.

now the tools go on my bright-shiny new 884s. i had to compress them about 2" to install the top-plate. 5100s at 0"


installing my new assemblies was a pita. i ended up having to undo the two bolts holding the lca to the lower ball-joint bracket. then, calling the wife in for support, found that a 4' piece of 3/4" pipe prying down on the lca and wedged on the front body-mount was extremely handy. i was then able to get the strut/lca bolt aligned and pushed in. torque the lower bolt, top-plate nuts, and tie rod end. having the other tire on the ground was the only way i could figure to then achieve the 103 ft/lbs torque for the lca/lower ball-joint bracket bolts. otherwise your putting undue stress on the steering wheel lock mechanism.

re-install the tire and do the same for the opposite side.

for the rear aal, i jacked the truck up from the rear diff till the tires were a couple inches off the ground. i then set my stands at the rear frame-rails with blocks of wood to achieve that hight.


remove BOTH rear tires, and lower the jack till the rear is at full droop. raise the jack back up to support the axle. i removed both rear shocks, having to cut the "boots" to grip the shaft in order to remove the rusty top-nut. then both e-brake cable brackets were removed from the bracket on the overload leaf. from this point, i worked one side at a time.

remove the old u-bolts, bumpstop, and bottom plate. lower the jack untill you have 5" or so between the spring perch and factory pack. remove the centering pin. remove the pin from the aal kit and place the overload under it (if you choose to use it), being carful not to swap front or back ends (its my understanding that the longer end of the aal kit, from the centering hole, goes rearward). then place the aal under the factory pack. i had a buddy jack the axle back up while i guided the pin through the factory leaves, watching my fingers carefully. tighten the new centering pin, while having your buddy eye-ball from the rear of the truck to make sure you have all the leaves in line with each-other. something like this, notice the spring perch is butted to the springs with slight pressure from the jack. the excess centering pin is cut off to allow the bump stop to seat


then, reinstall the new u-bolts through the bump and bottom plate. cake and pie, do it for the other side. add tires. now comes the important part of the install:


some crappy pictures after finishing
front


rear



less than 700 bucks before alignment, no spacers, no ucas, and so far it rides great. the 5100s seem to dampen the new springs very well, and i hope to have a trail report soon! i would like to add that the stuttering i had at takeoff, which i attributed to a burnt clutch/flywheel, is gone! apparently it was axle-wrap, which the aal kit did away with! after much drooling and looking at parts, i decided this route to be the most bang for my buck. i do enjoy trails, and would recomend these parts to anyone looking to get their vehicle a tad higher over the rocks and getting a better ride to boot. not something i would bash through the desert with, but i think it will be perfect for the mildish stuff i like to do, along with looking and riding strait boss on the way to work.

big thanks to tacomaworld, and to wheelersoffroad.com! hope this helps someone

 

Nice write up! Looks good!

I think I read another post removing tie rod with a tool u can rent also. But is it really necessary to remove the tie rod? Could have sworn toytecs instructions has remove without tie rod.

 

Good DIY.
Since I was installing new UCAs, I had to remove the UCA ball joint anyway. With the UCA disconnected, I did not have to loosen the LCA bolts or pry on anything to get the old strut out, or put the new coilovers in.

These are only $15-$20 and good to have in the tool box. If you have one, then you don't have to hit anything with a hammer. I'd recommend some moly lube on the threads tho. My truck came apart pretty easily, but its also brand new.

 

something had to move. i decided the tie rod would be easier than one of the control arms. but i ended up undoing both

 

well, haven't driven the truck much more but looks like i will be adding a front diff bearing/bushing replacement soon. . . . . damnit

 

Curious if a differential drop spacer would have or will help you

 

That stupid shudder at takeoff/acceleration is definitely spring wrap , my automatic has done it since purchased and the damned dealer just doesn't get it . Called Toyota and got a case number now , we'll see if they pay attention . Lift looks pretty good , btw...
Sarge

 

It's generally accepted that diff drops don't do anything on the 2nd Gens. Or that's what I've heard at least with the Toytec Diff Drop.

Matt

 

i thought about it, but i want to maintain my ground clearence there along with some stories i/ve heard about that kit that steer me away.

ecgs bushing will be installed. there is a tone of slop at my c/v axle to diff juncture. good times

 

Truck looks great.What tires are you running? and what size are they?
Thanks

 

Nice job OP! How much lift did you get out of the 884's?

 

tires are goodyear wrangler authorities in 265/75/16. . . only available at walmart. best a/t tire for the money in my book.

i believe the 884s settled to about 1 1/2" over stock.

my ecgs bushing came in today and i grabbed a c/v boot kit while i was in sacramento. . . . . stay tuned for the bushing install/ c/v shaft makeover!!!!

 

thanks

 

Interesting....Would you mind taking a measurement from center of hub to bottom of fender? I ask as it seems most folks get at least 2" out of these coils and some have gotten almost 2.5". I want to put them on my dcsb but don't want more then 2 in.

 

22 1/2" is what i get. they were about 23 inches at time of install

 

Thanks! I'm guessing your starting measurement was around 21"? Truck looks great btw!

 

honestly, i was so excited to start that i forgot to measure stock height lol. you can use my avatar as a before pic and my signature as an after.

if your worried about alignment, my truck got into spec, but any higher and i recon' new ucas would be necessary. it drives great, no wandering or anything you hear from guys that cant get caster to spec.

my only complaint so far is that my tires seem to have shrunk. i will say that if your doing this yourself, be careful with your c/v boots. that is my only guess as to how one got damaged. either from me prying on the lca or from shoving the new struts into place.

also the front diff vibe was instantly noticeable after lifting. is really not a big deal, but im still paying on my truck so therefor it must operate perfectly.

good luck, and i highly recommend wheelersoffroad.com you can leave them a note with your order and they called my back soon. very knowledgable with the products and alleviated all my concerns.

 

i really wish i could say my attempt at installing bilstein 5100's went as well. mine turned into an 8 hour headache of finally putting everything back together stock and taking the truck to the shop the next morning for a professional install.

walked away with my fingers mangled and everything. 2012 struts were so god damn stiff i couldnt budge them out for the life of me.

had strut/ coil over compressor and everything.

 

If you are not upgrading the UCAs, you can undo the two bolts holding the lower ball joint to the spindle. This way you don't have to separate the tie rod or any ball joint, reducing the risk of damage.

Put matchmarks on the alignment cams, then loosen the LCA bolts. No prying needed.

 

Nice job.

You may be better off next time using 2x6's or stacked plywood to put at the bottom of your jackstands. Not sure if I would want to trust by body to a brick on top of the stand.