HID headlight out but only on one side.

No clue what you're showing us there.
I've never seen anything that looks like that on the DDM harnesses I installed.

 

Looks like the. Wire going from the bulb to the ballast ?

 

Connector doesn't look right, and there should be an identical black wire next to it.
DDM uses the same connectors for + and -, but they reverse the gender of the connector so they can't be plugged in improperly.

 

So more update....

The wire that I was trying to show was a wire that was coming from the harness on the driver side to the passenger side.

I took out the wiring and flip it, and it work. Now i just put it back in the original position and clean where the ground plug is. Both lights work now. I will try it again later and see if any problem pop up

 

Update? Having similar issue with similar setup.

 

I found my issue was the grounding, found better spots and they are working perfectly

 

Me too

I think it was because of the cheap U shape wiring at the end. After a throughout cleaning of the grounding spot and tighten the screw everything work now.

 

Glad you figured it out as well

 

Hey did you ever figure this out ? I'm having the exact problem

 

I’ve searched through all the forums regarding the passenger HID not turning on especially on cold mornings. I have the morimoto hids from the retrofit source. 2017 TRD off-road. They were very accommodating and provided warranty parts.
It started first with a flickering light. I had to change bulb, igniter and ultimately the ballast. It worked for a bit then started to have the passenger side not turn on. I would flip the headlight switch off and on a few times to get it to work. Then eventually that “fix” stopped working. It ended up being the Relay wire harness. Works fine now. i even thought it was the battery voltage at one point…. Nope, just a bad relay/wiring harness. Hope that saves some of you time and stress.

 

Yeap all mine were replaced with waterproof potted relays after having two harnesses fail on different vehicles.

 

The issue could probably be fixed by putting an in-line "anti-flicker" module which is nothing more than a capacitor to reduce voltage drops/surges from starting the truck while the headlights are trying to turn on. Additionally it provides a little boost in amperage which helps in cold temps.

The other issue is that aftermarket ballasts are decent but I've had my hits and misses with them, even the brand name ones. Having the igniter separate from the ballast is another failure point. I have had the igniter fail on a couple aftermarket ballasts (hylux and morimoto) due to a small crack or moisture getting into it somehow. Same aftermarket bulbs. H series HID bulbs (like H1, H11, etc) aren't as reliable as D2S bulbs either for many reasons, one is that it's simply a universal HID capsule mated to the desired base. Where as D2S bulbs are specifically designed from the ground up.

If you have a D2S bulb, I would recommend getting Hella Gen 3 ballasts. You can get them from 2000's era Audi A4's and A6's at your local salvage yard. I get them for $7-$10ea at mine since they don't know what they are and randomly assign it. I won't argue about a $3 split since the go for $60+ea used online. I have used multiple sets for years without a failure, so don't let the age or "used parts" scare you. They are the best overall ballast you can you get! The Denso slims are slightly faster start-up, we're splitting hairs here thought. But the Denso's are not sealed, so you have to either install them into your headlight or get them potted. A lot more work for very little benefit.