DIY: Basic Speaker Upgrade- 2nd Gen Access Cab

When I wired in my Polk crossover, I wired red to + and black to -.
I think I remember each door having a different color tracer, but the base colors were red and black. Pretty sure the tweeter harnesses were identical on both sides.

Seriously, it's AC. As long as all speakers in the cab are in phase, it doesn't matter.
Stereo systems have been running floating grounds to the speakers ever since they moved beyond 18 watts back in the 80s.

 

On my 2013 I was able to run the speaker wires from a connector behind the drivers side A pillar, back behind the weather strip over the doors to the rear door hinge area. Very easy, and since I was using the factory HU, I did not need big aftermarket wire.
On my truck the connector was black, with four wires ,violet,pink,blue and light green, the same colors as the front speakers. Cut back the sleeve to give yourself some room to work, and you can clip the wires on the upper side of the connector. This will disconnect your ineffective headliner "rear" speakers. Pull the weatherstrip off all around the upper part of the door opening.
You can now splice some new wires on and carefully thread them up the pillar and above the headliner and behind the side curtain airbags, then behind the door latch loop and down the rear. Keep the wires behind the little grey tabs so the wires won't be in the way when you put the weatherstrip back. Meet your wires from the doors and you're done. Run right rear wires across under the under seat bins.

 

Now you'll need to bypass the factory "radio condenser" behind the glove box.
Pull in the box sides to clear the pegs, pull down the glovebox door, reach in on the right side and pop off the upper end of the door damper, then pull the glovebox straight out and out of your way. There's a 10mm bolt above the glovebox latch loop you'll need to remove. Above the glovebox is a cover, pull the sides straight out to pop loose one snap clip on each side. Tilt the cover down and pull it away from the dash and you will see a little box attached to the back. Pull the connector off and the box pulls off the cover with a push clip. Snap off the box cover and you will see two capacitors inside. just solder a jumper across each one and you will get full bass to the rear speakers again.

 

OK. I have a 2.7L 2wd SR5 PreRunner DCSB. I am 52 and want to upgrade the stereo system in stages. I don't want a window rattling system, I just want a full, nice sound. My wife's Prius sounds great with her JBL system. I am guessing that I would have been more than happy with the premium system in this if had been installed.

My first question is on speakers.
Crutchfield states:
that I need 6 1/2" or 6 3/4" in the fronts and 5 1/4" in the rears.

Sonic states:
Speakers that fit your 2013 TOYOTA TACOMA Standard 6 Spkr Audio (change)
Front: 6" x 9"
Rear: 6-3/4"
Front door: 6" x 9"
Back door: 6-1/2"

********* states:
fronts: 6.5" components
6" x 9" coxials
rears: 6.5" coaxials

What gives? How do I know what I need without tearing a door apart?

I have purchased from Crutchfield before and was very happy with their service. I have read good things about Sonic and they appear pretty inexpensive. ********* looks to be more high end products that is out of my likely budget.

Thanks for your help with my speaker quandary.
Brian

 

Go with Crutchfield, they know what they're talking about. I can't speak for what you stated Sonic told you, as I have no idea what the difference between "Front" and "Front Door" is, or "Rear" and "Rear Door", and if you state there are 6 speakers, why are you listing 4 pair?

I have a 2011 Access Cab, am your age, and put 5-1/2 Boston Acoustics in the front doors, nothing in the back doors, disconnected those crappy things in the headliner, and slipped a Kicker Hideaway sub under the seat. That speaker setup is more than enough for me. Good luck.

 

Brian -
Each website is listing different sizes because the door openings are custom fit. You will need a speaker baffle. I recommend Mr Marv, he builds a quality product. ********* has been shady, and Crutchfield will just give you a cheapo plastic thing.

Rear speakers are not a necessity, nor are they recommended in higher end setups, but to each their own. I recommend installing fronts first and then waiting for the rears if you still decide you need them.

Crutchfield, Sonic will be OK for regular product such as speakers. 6.5" on the front will be the ideal size. Mr Marv can also give you recommendations. Wonderful guy to talk to on the phone.

 

If you've got the DCSB you will want to go with 6.5" in all 4 doors and as stated, you will need the adapters. I can't speak to the various outlets for the adapters as I made my own from plastic cutting boards. If you're handy, I would suggest this route, I saved a ton of money. Asthetically they won't will awards, but if you take your time, cut them and seal them against the inner door and speaker flange correctly, they'll sound good as anything out there. Also, the 6.5" speakers in the front should be a component set, to isolate the tweeter in the factory location.

 

I just ordered . 2 pairs of focal 165 2ways coaxial from crutchfield.com . These will be replace my stock on 2014 Double cab, They only comes with the speaker adapter for front door not the back door ,so had to order rear door adapter separate , I am planing to replace the stock tweeter too, since they're not great , i heard people said no need to replace stock tweeter ,but I want to do it anyway, anyone have focal 61/2 speakers replaced ? What do u think about the sound ?

 

Yes, you need to replace the stock tweeter, as well as the stock head unit.

The stock HU is detuned to allow the stock speakers to survive.

 

So stock HU cant push enough power for the speakers i am replacing ?

 

Both power and EQ.

The best speakers on the planet will not sound much better than stock with the stock HU.

 

can ANYONE PLEASE HELP WITH REAR DIFF NOT LOCKING UP have pulled out clean as a pin clicks in dash but nothing at actuator so checked locking fork inside rearend moves freely so put in lock making sure actuator is in locked position rear was locked but wouldnt unlock so i pulled back out slid fork into unkoc then replaced actuator any help ?

 

Try posting in the right section.

This is Audio and Video, in a thread about speaker upgrades.

 

sorry to bother you rich im new herre always been in military and done my n
own now im disabled in the wounded warrior thought it was in that feed again sorry

 

Thank you for your service and your personal sacrifice.

 

I have A 2010 Access Cab, It doesnt have speakers in the rear doors. Without pulling it all apart does anyone know if it would still have holes in the door frame or would i have to make some.

 

My 2013 still had the door holes, just have to take care to transfer the hole center to your door panel before you start cutting, and select a low profile grille.
I found some mesh ones and mounted them from behind a smoothly cut circle.

 

thanks Snowrx

 

Stupid noob speaker question. This is my first speaker purchase for any of my cars. 2005 DC with Pioneer deck. I bought 4-6.5 Kicker speakers and had time to put 1 in the back door--sounds worse than stock. I'm returning two of them and will put the others in the back door since I already opened the box and used them.
For the front, should I put 6x9 or 6.5 component speakers in? I rarely listen to loud music, I would rather have clearer sound at lower volumes. Sub is out of the question since all the space in the truck is usually stuffed with camping gear.
Thanks.

 

I'm guessing you meant 'worse' as in 'sounds weaker'. The speakers you bought probably are expecting more power, such as an amp. They sound bad because the stock head unit doesn't have the power to push them.

6x9 vs. 6.5 is relative to your own tastes, but typically a 6.5 produces a more accurate sound.

For what you are describing, you want a small amplifier and a good set of front door speakers.

1. Rear door speakers are not a concern. In fact, I have my fader set fully forward because I don't notice any help from the rear.
2. Get a reasonably good set of component speakers for the front. Note that you will need brackets, I recommend Mr. Marv
3. A small amp will provide the clarity. Any amp should be able to do this at low volume. It takes more power and better equipment to continue providing clarity at high volume. Find a small 2-channel amplifier with speaker-level and preamp inputs. You will use the speaker-level inputs for current setup, and have the preamp inputs if you ever need them in the future. You will need to find a spot to mount it, either under a seat or in the rear cubby. It will probably be the size of a ream of paper or less.

If you really don't want the amp, go to the store and listen to speakers that are plugged into the cheapest head unit they have AND not plugged into an amp. Try to find the best sounding pair at the best price and go with that.